Getting Your Financial Ducks In A Row Rotating Header Image

November, 2009:

Real Estate Tax Standard Deduction Increase to Expire After 2009

bailout by woodleywonderworksYet another taxpayer-friendly provision in the tax code that will be expiring at the end of 2009 is the increase in standard deduction for real estate taxes paid.  (If you’ve been following these posts, you’ll realize that this is another “stealth increase” in taxes, beginning in 2010.)

In today’s tax law and until you’ve paid your taxes for 2009, this is how it works:  If you use the Standard Deduction – that is, if the total of your itemized deductions doesn’t exceed the Standard Deduction amounts – you are allowed to take an additional increase in your standard deduction for real estate taxes paid during the tax year.  This amount is the lesser of the actual amount that you paid in real estate taxes or $1,000 for a married couple filing jointly (MFJ).  The amount is $500 for single filers.

Beginning with tax year 2010, this increase goes away completely.  For many folks this can represent a direct increase in taxes – if you’re MFJ and in the 25% bracket, for example, this means you will pay an additional $250 in taxes.

Photo by woodleywonderworks

IRS Updates Info on First-Time Homebuyer Credit Expansion

The following information was released by the IRS on 11/25/2009 as Tax Tip 2009-13:

If you are in the market for a new home, you may still be able to claim the First-Time Homebuyer Credit. Congress recently passed The Worker, Homeownership and Business Assistance Act Of 2009, extending the First-Time Homebuyer Credit and expanding who qualifies.

Here are the top 10 things the IRS wants you to know about the expanded credit and the qualifications you must meet in order to qualify for it.

  1. You must buy – or enter into a binding contract to buy a principal residence – on or before April 30, 2010.
  2. If you enter into a binding contract by April 30, 2010 you must close on the home on or before June 30, 2010. Note: the closing date was updated to on or before September 30, 2010.
  3. For qualifying purchases in 2010, you will have the option of claiming the credit on either your 2009 or 2010 return.
  4. A long-time resident of the same home can now qualify for a reduced credit. You can qualify for the credit if you’ve lived in the same principal residence for any five-consecutive year period during the eight-year period that ended on the date the new home is purchased and the settlement date is after November 6, 2009.
  5. The maximum credit for long-time residents is $6,500. However, married individuals filing separately are limited to $3,250.
  6. People with higher incomes can now qualify for the credit. The new law raises the income limits for homes purchased after November 6, 2009. The full credit is available to taxpayers with modified adjusted gross incomes up to $125,000, or $225,000 for joint filers.
  7. The IRS will issue a December 2009 revision of Form 5405 to claim this credit. The December 2009 form must be used for homes purchased after November 6, 2009 – whether the credit is claimed for 2008 or for 2009 – and for all home purchases that are claimed on 2009 returns.
  8. No credit is available if the purchase price of the home exceeds $800,000.
  9. The purchaser must be at least 18 years old on the date of purchase. For a married couple, only one spouse must meet this age requirement.
  10. A dependent is not eligible to claim the credit.

For more information about the expanded First-Time Home Buyer Credit, visit IRS.gov/recovery.

Student Loan Interest Deduction Changes in 2011

cornell women by Cornell University Library12/17/2010 – with the passage of the Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization and Job Creation Act of 2010, the rate changes formerly discussed in this article have been superseded.

Photo by Cornell University Library

Last Chance for Charitable Contributions from Your IRA

vintage postcard charity by riptheskull12/19/2010 – with the passage of the Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization, and Job Creation Act of 2010, the provision for an IRA owner who is at least age 70½ to make a direct charitable contribution of up to $100,000 from his or her IRA has been extended through the end of 2011.  Such a direct contribution can be used to satisfy the IRA owner’s Required Minimum Distribution.

There is a provision expiring at the end of 2009 for folks over age 70½ who wish to make contributions to their favorite charities from their IRAs.  This provision allows you to make the contribution directly from your IRA, so that the income never shows up on your tax return at all.

Why does this matter?  Aren’t you able to make a contribution and follow that up with a deduction on Schedule A of your tax return?  Well, the difference is that if you make the contribution directly to the charitable organization, the income never shows up on your tax return.

This income, if it is included in your AGI (and MAGI), will impact many of your other deductions – for example, medical expenses are deductible only to the extent that they exceed 7.5% of your AGI.  If your AGI is inflated by a distribution from an IRA that is then contributed to a charity, of course the 7.5% will be much higher, thus eliminating some of your expenses from being deductible.

Eligibility

As mentioned before, to take advantage of this, you must be over over age 70½ and subject to Required Minimum Distributions (RMD) from your IRA.  There is also a limit of $100,000 that can be contributed directly to the charity and excluded from your gross income.

So through the end of 2009, you are still able to make this direct contribution from your IRA.  These contributions can also be used to satisfy your RMD for the year… just make sure that the distribution is made payable to the charitable organization.

Beginning in 2010, you’ll have to claim the distribution as income, and then make the contribution after that, so this will in effect be a tax increase for the folks that are taking advantage of this provision.

Photo by riptheskull

Deducting IRA Losses

blue boy by Lida RoseDid you know that you could deduct losses in your IRA accounts?  It’s not as simple as it sounds… but it is available and can be a sort of consolation prize for the poor individual that fits the circumstances.

Deducting Losses on a Traditional IRA

Of course, in order to deduct a loss, you have to have a basis in the account, since by definition a loss results when your balance is less than the basis.  The only way to have a basis in a traditional IRA is to have non-deductible contributions, that is, contributions that you made but did not deduct from your income for tax purposes.

If your traditional IRAs have experienced significant losses (with respect to the basis), you have the option to claim the loss as a miscellaneous itemized deduction, subject to a 2% of AGI floor.

For example, if you had IRAs with a basis of $5,000 and your investments had lost value to a point where the account was worth $100, you have a loss of $4,900.  For our example we’ll say that you have a household AGI of $75,000.  You are eligible to deduct $3,400 as a miscellaneous itemized deduction – your loss is $4,900 and the 2% AGI floor is $1,500, so the difference, the deduction, is $3,400.

In order to do this, your loss must be across all of your IRAs aggregated, and you must close ALL traditional IRA accounts and take distribution of all funds from those accounts. In other words, if you have a loss in one account and a gain in another account, your loss has to be netted with all accounts aggregated in order to take advantage of this deduction.

Deducting Losses on a Roth IRA

The same holds for a Roth IRA – but you always have basis in a Roth, since by definition all contributions or conversions constitute basis in the account.  The same rule applies here though:  you must close ALL Roth accounts and take distribution of the funds in order to take this deduction, and the loss must be an overall net loss considering all of your Roth accounts in aggregate.

In some cases you might be able to isolate a loss in your IRAs via conversions, rollovers or recharacterizations.  In general, this deduction is a last-ditch effort for situations where things have really gone south in your accounts.  As mentioned before, it’s pretty hairy to work out the details, but it can be a “consolation prize” if you’ve found yourself in this position.

Photo by Lida Rose

Adoption Tax Credit to Expire at the End of 2010

adoptalkphoto

12/17/2010 – with the passage of the Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization and Job Creation Act of 2010, the rate changes formerly discussed in this article have been superseded.

Photo by NACAC

What Can a Broker Do For You?

You have choices when it comes to investing.  You can go directly to a mutual fund company (such as Vanguard or T. Rowe Price) and choose investments yourself, or you can use a fee-only financial advisor to assist you in choosing investments.  But by far the most common method is to work with a broker.  Brokers are companies like Edward Jones, Ameriprise, and AG Edwards Wachovia Wells Fargo, plus many, many other companies, including insurance company brokerage divisions, banks, and the like.

What’s the Difference?

chuck babbage's difference engine by Marcin WicharyYou’re probably wondering – what’s the difference between a broker and, for example, a fee-only advisor?  You’re right to be confused, because until you start working with one or the other and you know what the difference is, they look pretty much the same from the outside.  Here’s the difference:

Brokers are salesmen. It is their job to sell you an investment product, and that’s how they get paid.  They are required by law to ensure that the product is “suitable” to your situation.

Fee-only advisors are advisors. Fee-only advisors are bound by law to act as a fiduciary.  It is their job to advise you on the appropriate strategies and tactics – investment moves that are in your best interest.

That’s a pretty big difference in itself – but since that differential makes the fee-only advisor look SO much better (and since this writer is a fee-only advisor), I wanted to point out what research has born out to be true about the recommendations that you get from a broker.

What Can a Broker Do For You?

There is a study done by researchers at Harvard and the University of Oregon (Bergstresser, Chalmers, and Tufano), which strives to identify the possible benefits to the consumer of financial services in purchasing investments via a broker. They looked at five possible benefits:

  1. Assistance in selecting funds that are harder to find or evaluate.
  2. Access to funds with lower costs excluding distribution costs.
  3. Access to higher performing funds.
  4. Superior asset allocation.
  5. Attenuation of behavioral investor biases (in other words, saving the investor from himself)

Ultimately, the researchers “found it difficult to identify the tangible benefits delivered by brokers.”  But that’s getting ahead of ourselves.  We’ll take each category separately and briefly describe the findings.

Assistance in selecting funds that are harder to find or evaluate

It is true that brokers often direct investors into smaller, younger funds that have less track record or are not covered by major rating services.  The costs (especially in time) to the individual would be enormous in researching these funds. If the other benefits are brought about by utilizing these harder to find or evaluate funds, then there would be a benefit to working with the brokerage.  What we’ll see is that the rest of the evidence doesn’t bring that conclusion.

Access to funds with lower costs excluding distribution costs

The researchers found that the funds sold through the broker channel do not have lower costs excluding distribution fees.  In other words, even if funds exist that are of a lower cost, the brokers are not (in general) directing investors to those funds.  Across the board, the annual cost of a brokered stock fund was on average 2 basis points (bp) higher (.02%), not including commissions or 12(b)1 fees.  And the average annual cost of a bond fund was an amazing 23bp higher, and money market funds were on average 4bp greater.

Access to higher performing funds

The overall return, as well as the risk-adjusted return, is lower for the funds that the broker chooses, versus funds that are directly purchased via other channels (e.g., a fee-only advisor or through personal research by the investor).  Stock funds underperformed direct-purchased funds by an average of 7.5bp (.075%) – and using risk adjustments caused these figures to get even worse.  Bond funds underperformed as well, but money market funds did provide a slightly better return, by a total of 18bp on average.

Superior asset allocation

While a broker’s asset allocation recommendation is different from that of other investment channels, over time the outcome is pretty much the same for either type of investor.  The difference is that, on average, the broker tends to direct a higher percentage of investors into bonds (as opposed to stocks).  Since stocks, over a long run, outperform bonds and bonds demonstrate lower risk (as measured by standard deviation), this difference in allocation weights tends to even out between the two.

Attenuation of behavioral investor biases

Lastly, the research shows that most broker-driven investors are much more sensitive to short-term performance in the market than other investors.  This leads to “performance chasing”, which in general does not bear greater returns, while at the same time increases incremental transaction costs.  Transaction costs benefit the broker, of course.

But wait, there’s more!

broker by kevin_oneillIn addition to the research summarized above, you need to know about how a broker is typically paid.  I already mentioned that the broker is paid to sell the investor products – how does that work?  There are many types of fees which can impact an investor’s account:

  • Front end loads: this is a commission charged when you purchase the fund.  Typically these can be anywhere from 3% to 5% or more of the purchase, although at much higher balances the fees can be reduced and even eliminated.
  • Back end loads: this is a commission charged when you sell the fund.  Often, this is used to keep an investor in a fund for a specific period of time, during which other fees can be transacted from the account.  After a period of time, these back end loads are waived.
  • Annual loads:  this is an annual commission based on the holdings in the account, and can be one of the most expensive ways to hold investments.
  • 12(b)1 fees: this is also an annual fee based on the holdings in the account, and often is the most elusive to identify – while representing the greatest drain to the investor.  This fee is usually pretty small in relation to other fees (sub 1%) but it is charged across all classes of funds, whether a front-end, back-end, or annual load.  What really hurts is that the 12(b)1 fee is specifically for marketing the underlying investment.  In other words, as an investor in the fund, you’re paying to help bring in more investors.

While it’s not conclusive, some of the results found in the research paper indicate what you might expect:  that brokers sell the investments that pay them the most.  For example, as the front-end load or 12(b)1 fee increases for a particular fund, there is an attendant increase in the sales of the fund.  Not unexpected, it’s basic human nature.

Conclusion

The research shows no tangible benefit to working with a broker – in fact, results are often worse with a broker.  Add to that the costs of working with a broker, above and beyond the dismal results that you achieve, a conclusion isn’t hard to come by:  it makes more sense to either do the research on your own and purchase funds directly, or to work with a fee-only financial advisor who will do the research and operate as a fiduciary to ensure that the investment choices you make are in your best interests.

Photo #1 by Marcin Wichary
Photo #2 by kevin_oneill

Structuring the Roth Conversion (a CYA* activity)

In a recent article, I briefly covered the topic of Recharacterization.  The example that I gave was pretty simplistic – you converted an amount, and decided later to recharacterize that amount back to an IRA.  What if it gets complicateder?

There are some steps you can take in your conversion that will help you to recharacterize later, if the occasion should arise.  These steps to structure the conversion are by no means required, they’d fit into a “simplifying your life” category, more than anything – or what I have heard referred to as a CYA* activity.

Structuring a Conversion

If you think you’ll want to come back and consider recharacterizing some of your conversion, you should start off with a brand-new Roth IRA account as the receiver of the conversion.  This way you don’t have to worry about separating the money later on during the recharacterization (if that comes about).

In addition, depending upon the volatility of your holdings, you might want to chunk things up even further – especially if we’re dealing with a sizeable amount of money.  You might consider chunking your account into Large-caps, small-caps, and global stocks, at the very least.  There’s no limit on the number of funds you could split the holdings into, so if you wanted, you could open a new Roth account for each asset that you own.

The point to all of this splitting is that, in the event that one of the assets dramatically reduces in value through the year, since you’ve kept them segregated, it will be simple to recharacterize just that one asset. This way you can keep from paying higher tax on a dramatically reduced asset.

growing growing by Sara. NelBut wait!  Doesn’t the IRS treat all IRAs as one account?  Hold on, there – before you get all dressed up and jump off a chair: You’re making the assumption that there is consistency in the rules… and consistency in the rules would be a huge departure from the IRS’ proud, nearly 150-year track record.  Besides, if the rules were consistent and made sense, then what would guys like me write about?

In the case of recharacterizing funds converted to a Roth IRA, the IRS only considers the account you converted into.  This is why it’s important to (at the very least) start with a fresh new account – because any recharacterization in an account that included prior conversions and/or contributions will likely dilute the effect of the recharacterization.  At the very least, commingling conversion funds will really complicate things, and lead to some potentially uncomfortable moments during the audit.

The more you’ve chunked your account, the easier it will be to choose only those funds that have fallen in value to recharacterize.  Otherwise the benefit is diluted by any increases on other holdings.

* Not really sure, but I think CYA in this sense stands for “Chunk Your Accounts”. You may have a different interpretation.

Photo by Sara. Nel

Flash again! Homebuyer’s Credit Expanded to Non-first timers…

In an update to the update, I wanted to pass this along:  part of the bill passed last week which extended the first-time homebuyer’s credit through June of 2010, ALSO expanded the types of homebuyers to include “long-term residents of the same principal residence”.

This “long-term resident” is defined as a homeowner who has owned and lived in the same principal residence for five consecutive years within the eight year period ending with the purchase of the new home.

New limits are in effect, as well – originally this credit (maximum $8,000 for first-timers, $6,500 for long-timer homeowners) phased out between $75,000 and $95,000 MAGI for a single individual or between $150,00 and $170,000 for married filing jointly (MFJ).  The new phaseouts begin at $125,000 for singles and $225,000 for MFJ.  There is a further limitation in that the home must cost no more than $800,000 (although this is solely effective for homes purchased after November 6, 2009.

For more information, you can view the video below:

View the First-Time Homebuyer Credit video

Prepared by Forefield Inc. Copyright 2009 Forefield Inc.