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Avoid Awkwardness in the Afterlife–Confirm Your Beneficiary Designations

Withholding Water

This is a topic that I cover with all clients, and one that I recommend you for everyone with retirement plans and other accounts with beneficiary designations.  Too often we think we have the beneficiary designation form filled out just the way we want it, and then (once it’s too late) it is discovered that the form hadn’t been updated recently – and the designation is not what we hoped for.

I made this recommendation to a client not long ago.  He assured me that he had all of his designations set up just the way he wanted.  His wife, sitting next to him in our meeting, asked him to make sure – talk to the IRA custodian and get a copy of the designation as it stands today.  A bit miffed about it all, he agreed to do so, and did the next day.  Guess what he found – as it stood on that day, his IRA beneficiary designation form indicated 100% of his IRA would pass to his ex-wife from 15 years ago!  Plus, he had no secondary beneficiaries named, which meant that if the ex predeceased him, HER heirs would be the primaries.  Thankfully he had checked on this to avoid this awkward and possibly devastating situation.

Know what was fixed pretty much immediately?

Take the time

You owe it to yourself and your heirs to take the time to review your beneficiary designations and keep copies of them in your “dead file”.  This includes IRAs, Roth IRAs, 401(k)/403(b)/457 plans, and other pensions or retirement plans.  You also may have POD or TOD (Pay on Death or Transfer on Death) designations on non-retirement accounts – confirm these and keep copies as well.

For your standard retirement accounts, such as IRAs, 401(k)s and the like, you typically have the option of naming a primary beneficiary (or beneficiaries) and a secondary or contingent beneficiary or beneficiaries.  It makes a huge difference on these accounts that you name a specific person (or persons) as the primary beneficiary, and a specific person (or persons) as the contingent beneficiary.  With IRAs, if you leave the designation blank, you may be taking away important options for your heirs.

If you leave the primary beneficiary designation blank you are leaving the transfer of your IRA up to the custodian’s default designation.  Quick! What’s your IRA custodian’s default beneficiary designation??  I didn’t think you’d know.

Often this default is your spouse first, and then your “issue” – meaning your children and other descendants.  Other times, the default beneficiary is your estate.  In the event that the estate is the default beneficiary, any beneficiaries of the estate will receive the IRA, but they will not be able to utilize the “stretch” option of receiving payout of the account over their remaining lifetimes.  This is because the IRS rules state that a “named beneficiary” must be in place in order to use the stretch provision.  If no “named beneficiary” exists, the stretch option is not allowed.  If the default is your spouse and your issue, these can be treated as “named beneficiary” if they are alive.

Discuss with your heirs

At face value, even though you think your intent for your beneficiary designations is clear, it might not be clear to your heirs.  For example, you may have chosen to pass along half of your IRA to your youngest child and only a quarter to the older two children because you believe the youngest child can use the money more than the other two.  Or maybe you decided to leave the entire IRA to your oldest daughter, and you want to designate your three sons to split up the farmland – which you believe is an equitable division.

Whatever you’ve decided, especially if there are perceived inequities in your division plan, you should take the time to review your plan with your heirs.  If that makes you uncomfortable, there are a couple of things to consider: First, if you’re uncomfortable discussing it with them, imagine how uncomfortable your heirs may be when the time comes to distribute your estate.  Maybe it’s not such a good idea after all if it could cause contention among your heirs.  Second, if you still believe your split is the right way to go, you should explain your plan to someone – your designated executor would be a good choice. And the designated executor should be a disinterested separate party, someone who isn’t receiving benefit from your estate plan, in order to keep the process “clean”.  Otherwise, if one of the heirs is your executor and the executor is perceived to receive preferential treatment, again you’ll have some contention among your heirs.

If there are complex instructions involved, consider making an addendum to your will.  Instructions in your will would have no impact on the beneficiary designations on your IRAs and other plans (these pass outside of your estate as long as you’ve made specific designations) but other asset divisions aside from retirement accounts may require explanation for your heirs to understand your intent.  Don’t expect that everyone will understand or agree with your thought process when you’re gone.  Explaining your thought process in advance will likely help to ensure that your division plan doesn’t result in a family rift.

Take the time to review your beneficiary designations.  Make sure that you have the primary beneficiary or beneficiaries that you want, and the percentages that you’d like each to have.  Also make sure that you have named contingent beneficiary or beneficiaries in the event that your primaries have predeceased you.  Lastly, make sure that you note how division is done after the death of the beneficiaries: per stirpes or per capita.

Your Employer’s Retirement Plan

Backcountry Provisions

Whether you work as a doctor, teacher, office administrator, attorney, or government employee chances are you have access to your employer’s retirement plan such as a 401(k), 403(b), 457, SEP, or SIMPLE. These plans are a great resource to save money into, and some employers will even pay you to participate!

Let’s start with the 401(k). A 401(k) is a savings plan that is started by your employer to encourage both owners of the business and employees to save for retirement. Depending on how much you want to save, you can choose to have a specific dollar amount or percentage of your gross pay directed to your 401(k) account. Your money in your account can be invested tax-deferred in stock or bond mutual funds, company stock (if you work for a publicly traded company), or even a money market account. Your choice of funds will depend on the company that offers the 401(k) through your employer. Generally, you’re going to want to choose funds with low fees and expenses. As of 2013, the maximum amount you can put into your 401(k) is $17,500 annually and another $5,500 “catch-up” contribution if you’re age 50 or older. At age 59 ½ qualified withdrawals are now taxed as ordinary income. Withdrawals before age 59 ½ are subject to penalties with some exceptions.

A cousin to the 401(k) is the 403(b). The 403(b) is very similar to the 401(k) in that you’re allowed to allocate a certain amount or percentage of your gross pay to your account, tax-deferred. Where the 403(b) differs is that it’s only allowed for non-profits such as school districts, hospitals, municipalities, and qualified charitable organizations. Another difference is by law the money in your 403(b) can only be invested in mutual funds or annuity contracts. You’re not allowed to own individual stocks or bonds in it. Like the 401(k), you’re allowed to save (as of 2013) $17,500 annually and another $5,500 “catch-up” contribution if you’re age 50 or older. At age 59 ½ qualified withdrawals are now taxed as ordinary income. Withdrawals before age 59 ½ are subject to penalties with some exceptions.

Branching out in our retirement plan family tree we come to the 457 plan. 457 plans are reserved for certain non-profits such as hospitals, government entities, school districts and colleges and universities. As you may have guessed, 457 plans are similar to their 401(k) and 403(b) counterparts in that money from your gross pay goes into your account tax-deferred. Like the 403(b) the 457 only allows investments in mutual funds or annuity contracts.

Similar to the 401(k) and 403(b), you’re allowed to save up to $17,500 annually and another $5,500 “catch-up” contribution if you’re age 50 or older (for 2013). Unlike the 401(k) and 403(b) the 457 allows you access to your money at any age, as long as you’re separated from service from your employer. For example, if you were 40 years old and have been saving into a 457 since you were age 25 and you saved $50,000 and you were fired, laid off or resigned, you’d have access to your 457 money without penalty; you’d simply pay ordinary income tax on any withdrawals.

Another key point to make is in regards to the aggregation rule. What this means is that you’re only allowed to invest $17,500 (along with the “catch-up” if you qualify) total between a 401(k) and a 403(b). For example, you work as a professor for nine months of the year and save $14,000 in your college’s 403(b). Over the summer, you work part time for a company that offers a 401(k) plan and you want to save money there. Assuming you’re age 40, you’d only be able to save an additional $3,500 to your summer company’s 401(k) – for a total of $17,500.

There is one exception to the aggregation rule. If you have access to a 401(k) or 403(b) and a 457, you are allowed to contribute the maximum to the 401(k) or 403(b) – for a total of $17,500 and then contribute the maximum to the 457 for an annual total of $35,000. The 457 trumps the aggregation rule. Few people may be able to actually sock away $35,000 per year, but it is available to those that work for employers offering both plans or if you work for two or more employers and they offer one or the other.

SEPs and SIMPLEs work a bit different. Typically these plans are available to smaller employers and SEPs are common for those that are self-employed. Both SEPs and SIMPLEs use IRAs as the funding vehicle to place retirement money, but each has different requirements as to contribution limits and participation requirements.

SEPs (Simplified Employee Pensions) can be funded to a maximum of $51,000 annually (for 2013) or 25% of the employee’s salary – whichever is smaller. There can be corresponding tax deductions involved that may be beneficial for solo businesses or businesses with a small number of employees as there are requirements that all employees must participate.

SIMPLEs (Savings Incentive Match PLan for Employees) are another option for smaller businesses looking to start a retirement plan and looking for a cost effective way to start (a 401(k) can be administratively expensive). Essentially, both employer and employees are allowed to participate and certain rules dictate that the employer must make a matching contribution (hence the Match in the name) to participating employees. As of 2013 you can contribute a maximum of $12,000 annually to a SIMPLE plan with an additional “catch-up” contribution of $2,500 if you’re age 50 or older.

The aggregation rule that applies to the 401(k) and 403(b) also applies to SEPs and SIMPLEs. This means that of the four plans for 2013, you’re still only allowed a total contribution of $17,500 annually ($23,000 if you’re age 50 or over). Having a 457 would be the only way to increase this amount.

Like SEPs and SIMPLEs, some 401(k) and 403(b) plans also have the company match. This means that in addition to your contributions, your employer will also make a contribution or “match” to the amount you’re contributing up to a certain percent. Consider taking full advantage of this. It’s free money! There are several reasons why an employer would do this ranging from plan compliance to helping ensure employee satisfaction and loyalty.

Finally, participating in your employer’s plan does not prohibit you from participating in a Traditional or Roth IRA. You are allowed to contribute the maximum allowed by law to both your employer’s plan and your own IRA.

It goes without saying that before you decide to participate, talk with your human resources department (not your cubicle buddy) or a financial professional regarding your options and which option or combination is right for you.

Join in the Movement – Add 1% to Your Savings This Year!

Retirement

Over the past several weeks we’ve been writing articles to encourage all Americans to add at least 1% more to savings in the coming year. More than 20 of my fellow bloggers have submitted articles, and these articles include many great ideas that you can apply in order to increase your savings rate in the coming year.

Since many employees are going through annual benefit elections right about now, it’s a very good time to increase your annual contributions to your retirement savings plans. Big changes are easiest to undertake with incremental steps – starting with adding 1% can have a great impact and get the momentum going!

Listed below are all of the articles that I’ve been notified about so far – 22 23 in all! These folks are very smart, and have shared some great ideas. You owe it to yourself to check it out, and then take action!  Add that 1% to your 401(k) or IRA!  If you’re a blogger, see the original post for details on how to join the action: Calling All Bloggers!

Listed below are the articles in our movement so far (newest are at the top):

A video tv segment from Laura Scharr: Preparing for Retirement

From Paula Hogan: 6 Ways to Add Another 1% of Income to Retirement Savings in 2013

From Kevin O’Reilly: From TwentySomething to Millionaire

From Tom Batterman: Take the 1% Challenge in 2013!!!

From Dana Anspach: Can You Spare A Penny?

From Steve Doster: The Easy Way to Become a Millionaire

From Nancy Anderson: Save 1% More for Retirement in 2013

From Kathy Stearns: Do the 1% in 2013!

From Ken Weingarten: The 1% Challenge (Should you dare to accept)

From Richard Feight: The 1% Challenge!

From John Hunter: Save What You Can, Increase Savings as You Can Do So

From Emily Guy Birken: Increase your savings rate by 1%

From Jonathan White: Ways to increase your retirement contributions 1% in 2013

From Alan Moore: Financial Challenge – Should You Choose To Accept It

From Ann Minnium: Gifts That Matter

From Laura Scharr: In Crisis: Personal Savings- Here Are Six Steps to Improve Your Retirement Security

From yours truly: Add Your First 1% to Your 401(k)

From Steve Stewart: Seriously. What’s 1 percent gonna do?

From Theresa Chen Wan: Saving for Retirement: The 1% Challenge for 2013

From Mike Piper: Investing Blog Roundup: Saving 1% More

From Robert Wasilewski: Increase Savings Rate By 1%

From Sterling Raskie: A Nifty Little Trick to Increase Savings

From Roger Wohlner: Need Post-Election Financial Advice? Try the 1% Solution

From Michele Clark: Employer Retirement Accounts: 2013 Contribution Limits

Thanks to all who have participated so far – and keep those links coming!

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Increase Your Retirement Savings by At Least 1% in the Coming Year

ceramic piggy bank

Several financial bloggers (20 at last count!) have been diligently writing articles of encouragement for people to consider increasing their savings rates by at least 1% in the coming year. Since many employees are going through annual benefit elections right about now, it’s also a very good time to put in an increase to your annual contributions to your retirement savings plans. Small steps are the easiest to take, and the least painful – so why not set aside an additional 1% in your retirement plan in the coming year?

The list below includes a boatload of ideas that you can use to help you with this increase to savings. I’ve heard from several more bloggers who are going to put their posts up soon. If you’re a blogger, see the original post for details on how to join the action: Calling All Bloggers!

Listed below are the articles in our movement so far (newest are at the top):

From Dana Anspach: Can You Spare A Penny?

From Steve Doster: The Easy Way to Become a Millionaire

From Nancy Anderson: Save 1% More for Retirement in 2013

From Kathy Stearns: Do the 1% in 2013!

From Ken Weingarten: The 1% Challenge (Should you dare to accept)

From Richard Feight: The 1% Challenge!

From John Hunter: Save What You Can, Increase Savings as You Can Do So

From Emily Guy Birken: Increase your savings rate by 1%

From Jonathan White: Ways to increase your retirement contributions 1% in 2013

From Alan Moore: Financial Challenge – Should You Choose To Accept It

From Ann Minnium: Gifts That Matter

From Laura Scharr: In Crisis: Personal Savings- Here Are Six Steps to Improve Your Retirement Security

From yours truly: Add Your First 1% to Your 401(k)

From Steve Stewart: Seriously. What’s 1 percent gonna do?

From Theresa Chen Wan: Saving for Retirement: The 1% Challenge for 2013

From Mike Piper: Investing Blog Roundup: Saving 1% More

From Robert Wasilewski: Increase Savings Rate By 1%

From Sterling Raskie: A Nifty Little Trick to Increase Savings

From Roger Wohlner: Need Post-Election Financial Advice? Try the 1% Solution

From Michele Clark: Employer Retirement Accounts: 2013 Contribution Limits

Thanks to all who have participated so far – and keep those links coming!

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Calling All Bloggers – Let’s Increase America’s Savings Rate in November!

ceramic piggy bank

I’m sure that I’m not alone in the financial planning world with my concern about the rate of saving toward retirement across this great land.  Recent figures have shown that we Americans are doing a little bit better of late, at a 5% savings rate versus around 1% back in 2005 – but this is a dismal figure when you consider how most folks are coming up short when they want to retire.  Rather than sitting by idly and wringing my hands, I thought maybe something could be done to encourage an increase in savings – if only by 1%, this can be a significant step for lots of folks.  And now, in November, is the perfect time to do this, as most corporations are going through the annual benefit election cycle, so the 401(k) (or 403(b), 457, or other savings plan) is right at the forefront for many folks.

I’m proposing that all financially-oriented bloggers sharpen up their electronic pencils and write a column to encourage folks to increase their 401(k) savings by at least 1% more than last year.  I’d suggest taking a new look at this situation, perhaps suggesting ways that people can free up money to devote toward savings, for example.  I know you folks have a lot of great ideas, so don’t let my lame suggestions limit you!

In order to keep it oriented toward the benefits enrollment period for many companies, we should probably produce these articles between now and Thanksgiving.  Of course, most folks can make an increase to savings at any time, but while employees are looking at benefit options is a good time to strike while the iron’s hot.  If you’re interested in joining this action, send me a note at jim@blankenshipfinancial.com and let me know when you’ve posted your article.  I’ll keep a list of all of the articles with links on a blog post at my blog – this way anyone who’s looking for ideas on how to increase savings can find a multitude of ways to do so.

Thanks in advance for your help!

jb

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The 403(b) and 457(b): A One-Two Punch for Retirement

403 B's

Many non-profits, public schools, universities, state governments have access to either a 403(b) or a 457(b) retirement plan. Both the 403(b) and the 457(b) are retirement plans that these institutions can offer employees in addition to or in lieu of a defined-benefit pension. For ease of simplicity, think of these plans as a 401(k), but for non-profits. We won’t get into the minutia of exactly how they’re different here.

Like their 401(k) counterpart, the 403(b) and the 457(b) allow their owners to defer from their salaries up to $17,000 annually, on a pre-tax, tax-deferred basis. For those aged 50 and over, the IRS allows an additional $5,500 age-based catch-up contribution. These numbers are for 2012, they are indexed annually for inflation.

There is a select group of people that may have access to both the 403(b) and the 457(b). For these chosen few, there is an opportunity to save even more money. Here’s why: Let’s say you work for two employers, one is a for-profit that offers a 401(k) and one is a non-profit that offers a 403(b). By law, you are allowed to put in $17,000 total among both accounts – meaning $17,000 aggregated between the two accounts. So you could put in $9,000 in the 401(k) and $8,000 in the 403(b), and other different combination as long as your total between the two doesn’t exceed $17,000. For the age based catch-up, the aggregate between the accounts cannot exceed $22,500.

Now, let’s say you have access to both a 403(b) and a 457(b). Technically speaking, the 457(b) is considered a non-qualified plan – meaning it isn’t subject to certain ERISA requirements. One of those requirements it’s exempt from is the aggregation rule. What does this means for the chosen ones? It means that they can now contribute $17,000 to the 403(b) and another $17,000 to the 457(b) – for a total of $34,000, annually!

As you can see, these numbers can really add up especially if you’re nearing retirement and wanting to save all you can. It also comes in handy if you’re expecting a contract buy-out at retirement and or have unused vacation or sick time coming your way. No need to take that as a lump sum and have it taxed. Simply defer it to your 403(b), and once your 403(b) is full, move the remainder to your 457(b) or vice versa.

Talk to your employer to see what they offer and see if you’re one of the lucky ones!

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About to Graduate? Learn How to Save!

Hey, soon-to-be-graduates: as you begin to make your way out into the world of full-time employment, you’ll soon be faced with many, many “grown up” ways to spend the money you’ll be earning.  You’ll of course have rent, insurance, food and clothing, maybe a car payment, and you’ll want to use some of that new-found money to blow off steam, however you choose to do that – maybe fulfilling a lifetime dream of getting “beaked” by Fredbird, for example.

If you’re on top of your game, you’ll may also be thinking about saving some of your earnings.  Here, you’ll have a bundle of options to choose from – regular “bank” savings accounts, 401(k) plan (or something similar) from your employer, and IRA accounts, both the traditional deductible kind and the Roth kind (hint: the Roth kind is what I want you to pay particular attention to).

Side note: even if you’re not actively thinking of saving money at this stage, chances are you’ll begin thinking about savings activities soon, and definitely at some point in the next 40 years, since saving toward retirement is pretty much YOUR own responsibility.  In the next few years you’re going to be thinking about buying a home, possibly marriage and a family, and other longer-term kinds of things that require significant amounts of money. If you start on the savings process and get it into your mindset early, you’ll be miles ahead of your peers, and you’ll probably have built up a significant savings by the time you’re ready for these goals.

As you think about savings activities and all of these types of savings accounts, it’s important to gather knowledge about the features and benefits of the various accounts and how this will play into deciding what’s the best place to put your savings.

Emergency Savings

Briefly reviewing the accounts I listed, you might start with a regular savings account at a bank.  You probably have a checking account of some type, so you can open a savings account at that same institution as well.  This account could be used for developing an emergency fund.  This is so that, when you need new tires for your car, or you need to put down a deposit on a new apartment, you’ll be able to use these funds for that purpose, rather than using a credit card or otherwise going into debt.

Another very good reason to have an emergency fund is to help you get by if you should happen to find yourself unemployed.  I’d suggest putting enough into your emergency fund to cover your monthly expenses for at least 3 months.  If you’re conservative you might put as much as a year’s worth of expenses into the account – in either case, maintain that level over time, in tandem with your other savings activities.  This saving can be done automatically, via automatic transfer from your checking account, for example.  By automatically saving, you won’t have to *decide* if you’re going to save – it will happen without you having to make a decision.

There are no significant tax benefits with a savings account, so your saving activities should include some of the other plans that you have available.

Retirement Saving – 401(k)

Next, once you’ve begun your emergency fund, you should begin thinking about longer-term saving.  If you have a 401(k) plan available via your employer (or a comparable plan, such as a 403(b) or a 457 plan), you should consider taking advantage of this.  This is especially true if your employer offers a “matching” program – where the employer will put money into the account as you put money into it.  Often this matching is done either on a dollar-for-dollar basis up to a certain percent, or on a percentage of contributions.

For example, the company might match your contributions dollar-for-dollar up to 3% of your salary – meaning that if you put 1% of your salary into the account, the company will also put 1% into the account on your behalf.  You can put as much as 3% (for this example) into the account and the company will match it.  You will be eligible to put more in the account than what the company matches, but at this stage you might want to limit it to matched amount (more on this in a bit).

The other example that I gave is where the company matches on a percentage basis – this might be expressed as 50% matching up to a 6% employee contribution.  If this was the case, when you put in 1%, the company would match your contribution with a .5% contribution.  If you put in 4%, the company would match it with 2%, and so on, up to a 3% match for your 6% contribution.

The benefit of this kind of account is that, as you contribute money to the account, it’s taken out of your paycheck PRIOR to income tax, which will then reduce your taxable income for the year.  The money in the account (including the employer matches, which you’re also not taxed on in the current year) is then invested, hopefully growing over time.  The growth in the account is likewise untaxed, until you take the money out of the account.  At that time, you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the money that you take out of the account.

The downside to this kind of account is that, generally, the money that you put into the account is more or less locked up until you reach age 59½.  While there are ways to get at the money before that point, the real purpose of this account is to save toward retirement, so any money you put into your 401(k) plan should be considered very long-range savings.

Retirement – Traditional IRA

If you don’t happen to have a 401(k) plan available at your employer, another option to consider for longer-range saving is the Traditional IRA.  The way this works is that you open the IRA account and put up to $5,000 (and when you are over age 50, you can put an additional $1,000) into the account each year. Then, when you file your income tax return for the year, you are eligible to deduct that contribution amount from your income (subject to limits).

After that, the Traditional IRA acts pretty much like the 401(k) plan described before: your savings (hopefully) grows via investments and no tax is owed until you take the money out of the account – usually at age 59½ or later.  At that time you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the money as you withdraw it.  As with the 401(k) you *could* take the money out earlier, but generally there would be penalties for doing so.  As such, the Traditional IRA should be for your longer-term savings.

Retirement and other goals – Roth IRA

FINALLY – we’ve gotten to the account that I brought you here to talk about: the Roth IRA.

A Roth IRA is a little bit like the savings account, in that it doesn’t present any tax savings for you as you put money into it (like the Traditional IRA or the 401(k) plan does).  However, the real tax benefit comes as your account grows over time – when you take the money out after age 59½, there is no ordinary income tax owed on any of the money that you withdraw!

This is a big deal.  You can put in as much as $5,000 per year (same as the Traditional IRA), and as that money grows over time, you won’t have to pay tax on it if you leave it in the account until age 59½.  If you started saving $5,000 per year in a Roth account at age 22 and continued this until you were 42, I’ve illustrated how this could eventually become $33 million over time.

Possibly even a bigger deal is that you can use the Roth IRA as a sort of emergency fund, in addition to a retirement fund.  The money that you’ve contributed to the Roth IRA over time can be withdrawn at any time for any purpose, without tax or penalty.  The investment growth is restricted (like the other retirement accounts mentioned above, to age 59½ or older), but the money you contribute is unrestricted!  This could give you that extra amount that you need for a down-payment on a home, for example.

It’s best to be very judicious in your use of this privilege, since the account is primarily for retirement – but it’s nice to know that you have this option available.

Conclusion

Let’s say that you have started a new job making $30,000 a year.  After taxes are taken out, you have something on the order of $1,800 left each month.  Taking care of rent, insurance, car payment, and all the other things you have to pay (don’t forget the “beaking”!), leaves you with $200 a month for saving.

Let’s say you earmark $50 for your emergency savings.  Then, your employer provides a 3% matching plan for your 401(k), which amounts to $75 per month.  Keeping things simple, let’s say that this leaves you with $75 for other savings activities.  A Roth IRA is an excellent place to put this additional money.

The reason that a Roth IRA is the preferred place to put your excess savings money is because of the tax rate that you’re in at the present.  The savings in tax would be something on the order of $11.25 if you put this additional $75 into a Traditional IRA or a 401(k) plan, and then you’d have your money locked up until retirement. Since you’re already (rightly) taking advantage of the 401(k) plan (and doubling your money via the employer match), using the Roth IRA provides you with an additional way to save with a diversified tax treatment.

All in all, the Roth IRA presents you with a very cost-effective way to save money over time, especially when you’re at the lower end of the tax brackets.

If you’re needing a few more reasons to go with the Roth IRA, try this: if you’re going to grad school, your contributions in your Roth IRA account could be used to help pay for school, but at the same time – retirement accounts in general are not included as sources when calculating financial aid.  Plus, as you make contributions to a Roth IRA (also to other retirement accounts), depending on your income level you may be eligible for the Saver’s Credit.  This is up to a 50% tax credit for your contributions to a retirement plan, including the Roth IRA.

Full Disclosure: That’s my daughter Emma being “beaked” by Fredbird.  She’s a soon-to-be graduate of Western Illinois University, Class of ’12, and proud owner of a Roth IRA.

Converting an Inherited 401(k) to Roth

Lillian Roth
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One of the provisions that is available to the individual who inherits a 401(k) or other Qualified Retirement Plan (QRP) is the ability to convert the fund to a Roth IRA.

This gives the beneficiary of the original QRP the option of having all of the tax paid up front on the account, and then all growth in the account in the future is tax free, as with all Roth IRA accounts.

What’s a bit different about this kind of conversion is that, since it came from an inherited account, the beneficiary must take distribution of the account over his or her lifetime, according to the single life table.  This means that, in order for this maneuver to be beneficial, the heir should be relatively young, such that there will be time for a lengthy growth period for the account – making the tax-free nature of the Roth account worthwhile.

A downside to this move is that the heir should be in a position to pay the tax on the account from other funds, otherwise the tax pulled from the account will drastically reduce the funds that can grow over time.

If the heir has an IRA of his or her own that could be converted, and there are only enough other funds for paying tax to enable the conversion of one account or the other, the IRA should be converted rather than the QRP.  This is because the IRA has a much better chance for long-term growth than the inherited QRP due to the requirement for distribution of the account (as discussed above).

This is yet another reason that an individual might want to leave funds in a 401(k) plan rather than rolling it over to an IRA – since the heir does not have this Roth conversion option available if the money is in a traditional IRA.  This option is only available for an inherited 401(k) or QRP.

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