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IRA

What is Meant by Half Years of Age?

May 21st, 2012
by jblankenship.
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fireworks

If you’ve paid much attention to the rules around retirement plans (IRAs, 401(k)s, and others), you’ve probably noticed that there are a couple of rules that refer to ages that include “½”.  So what does this mean??

Well, quite literally, this means 6 months after you reach a certain age.  The two primary ages with “½” included are 59½ and 70½.  So, to be age 59½, means that you reached your 59th birthday six months prior to that date.  Likewise, to be age 70½ means that you reached age 70 six months prior to that date.

These two ages are for different purposes and are (naturally) treated differently.

Age 59½

The rule using age 59½ is for one of the exceptions to the penalty for early withdrawals from your IRA or 401(k) plan: once you’ve reached that age (and not before that age) you can take withdrawals from your IRA or 401(k) plan without limits (401(k) plans may also require a separation from service).

Here is an important point: this rule is specifically applied ONCE YOU REACH AGE 59½, and not before.  In the year that you will reach this age, any withdrawals taken from the account before you reach age 59½ will be subject to the 10% penalty if no other exceptions apply.

Age 70½

The rule using age 70½ is regarding Required Minimum Distributions (RMD), as well as limiting contributions to an IRA.  For RMDs, the requirement is simply that you must begin taking the required distributions for the year in which you’ll reach age 70½.  (You can actually delay the first distribution until April 1 of the following year, but the distribution is based on the year when you reach age 70½.)

Note that this is different from the way the 59½ rule works: it’s simply the year in which you’ll reach age 70½, not the specific date that you reach age 70½.  So if your birthday is between January 1 and June 30, your age 70½ year is the year that you reach 70 years of age.  If your birthday is between July 1 and December 31, your age 70½ year is the year that you’ll be reach 71 years of age.

The same holds true for contributions to an IRA: in the year that you’ll reach 70½, you are not allowed to make contributions, and you are not allowed to make contributions thereafter.

You Don’t Have to Count Days

The good news is that you don’t have to count days.  For the purposes of these rules, the half year is the same date, six months later.  For a birthdate of May 11, the half year is reached on November 11 of that same year.  For odd circumstances, such as August 31, of course you’ve reached the half year on February 31 of the following year.  Actually, I believe the rule is that you reach that milestone on March 3 – I’d use this date if you are in this situation, just to be certain.

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How a 401(k) Contribution Affects Your Paycheck

May 16th, 2012
by jblankenship.
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K-Line

As you begin a new job, or if you are a longer-term employee who is just starting to make contributions to a 401(k) plan, you are confronted with a question:  How does a contribution to the 401(k) plan impact the final take home pay on my paycheck? Believe it or not, you could actually increase your bottom line assets by reducing your income through a 401(k) contribution.

Let’s work through an example so that we can more completely understand what happens.

Your New Job

So, you’ve started a new job, with an annual pay of $30,000.  We won’t go into all of the details behind a W4 at this point, but for the sake of the example, we’ll say you filed your W4 to exactly match your tax expected of $2,603 for the year (and you started in January).  In addition to this, you have opted to take advantage of your employer’s health insurance plan, which costs $50 per month.  You are paid on an every-other-week schedule, for 26 pay periods per year.

This means that your take-home pay amounts to approximately $884.82, which is calculated as follows:

Salary ($30,000/26)

$1,153.85
Federal withholding

$100.00
State withholding

$57.69
FICA & SS

$88.27
Health Insurance

$23.07
Net Pay

$884.82

Your 401(k)

So, you now are ready to begin making contributions to your available 401(k) plan.  The company will match your contributions as follows:

100% of the first 2% of contributions

50% of the next 2% of contributions

25% of the next 2% of contributions

If you make a total of 6% in contributions, the company will match that with 3.5% contributed to your account.  Your 6% of $30,000 will amount to $1,800 per year, and the company match will be an additional $1,050, for a total contribution of $2,850.

For each paycheck, you are making a contribution of 6%, which is $69.23, and the company’s match is an additional $40.38 added to your account.  The result in change to your paycheck will work out as follows:

 

Salary ($30,000/26)

$1,153.85
401(k) contribution

$69.23
Federal withholding

$89.71
State withholding

$54.23
FICA & SS

$88.27
Health Insurance

$23.07
Net Pay

$829.34

The difference in your final take-home pay is only $55.48, which is $13.75 less than the amount that you contributed to the 401(k) account.  This is due to the fact that when you make a contribution to the 401(k) account, this amount is no longer subject to income tax.

When you consider what your overall economic result from this new paycheck is, you’ll see that making the 401(k) contribution is, indeed, a no-brainer:

Net pay

$829.34
401(k) contribution

$69.23
Company match

$40.38
Total economic increase

$938.95

As you can see, the end result is that you actually have increased your overall money on your balance sheet assets by $54.13, which is a 6.11% increase.  Granted, your 401(k) account and the company match are restricted in access, but your overall situation is a significant increase.

Keep in mind that, while we used 401(k) as the example type of account, the same could apply to a 403(b), or other sort of tax-deferral account.

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Inherited IRA Multiple Beneficiary Example

May 9th, 2012
by jblankenship.
2 comments
All of the beneficiaries of the future rice mill

I thought it might be helpful to work through an example of an IRA that has been inherited by multiple beneficiaries, so that we can discuss the important components of working with such a situation.

In our example, we’ll say there is an IRA worth $800,000 at the date of death of the original owner, and she has designated four beneficiaries of the account.  One of the first factors that is important to note is that the beneficiaries could be anyone – they do not have to be related to the original owner, or likewise they could be the children, grandchildren, nieces, nephews, brothers or sisters of the original owner.  For the purpose of this example though, none of the beneficiaries is the surviving spouse of the original owner – surviving spouses have different rules to work from.

Option 1 – Do Nothing

The beneficiaries of the original account could choose to make no changes to the account, leaving it exactly where is was during the life of the original owner. Assuming that the original owner was not subject to Required Minimum Distributions (that is to say, the original owner was not age 70½ or older), the account will be distributed over the lifetime of the oldest of all the beneficiaries, in equal shares to each of the four.  Table I, Single Life Expectancy, is used to determine the amount of the distribution, and the age is the age of the oldest beneficiary. (If the original owner was subject to RMD, the beneficiaries have the option of using her lifespan instead of the lifespan of the oldest beneficiary if this would result in a longer payout period.)

This option results in the least amount of “moving parts” and is likely the simplest to implement, but as we all know, getting four people to agree on things like how to manage the account, what investments to make, etc., is a difficult task.  This option also requires the younger beneficiaries to take distributions of larger amounts than would be required if the account were distributed over their own, longer, life span.

Option 2 – Separate Accounts

The beneficiaries of the IRA account have the option of splitting up the account into equal shares of the original account.  In this fashion, each individual would own an account, titled as “inherited” so that there’s no misunderstanding – the account is inherited, not a regular IRA (more on this later).

Once the separate accounts are set up, each of the four beneficiaries is allowed to (actually required to) take distributions over his or her own lifespan, rather than all being required to take distributions over the oldest beneficiary’s lifespan as was the case in Option 1.  In addition, each beneficiary can now make the investment and management decisions about the account separately.  The individual beneficiary should now also designate a beneficiary for any amount that is remaining in the account when the individual beneficiary dies.

Important Points

A few points that are very important to note here:

  • The separate accounts are the property of each individual beneficiary, but the account must retain a title which clearly designates the account as inherited.  Since the account is inherited, the owner of the account cannot make contributions to the account, roll it over into another IRA account, or convert the account to a Roth IRA.
  • When creating the separate accounts, it is important to ensure that the transfer is a trustee-to-trustee transfer.  If the funds are removed from the account (as in a 60-day transfer) then contribution back into an IRA is not allowed, and the amount distributed is no longer considered to be an IRA.
  • The separate accounts must be established by December 31 of the year following the year of the death of the original owner.  If not established by this date, then Option 1 is the default, and now only, option available.
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What Options Are Available for a Surviving Spouse Who Inherits an IRA?

May 2nd, 2012
by jblankenship.
2 comments
First Spouse Program bronze medal
First Spouse Program bronze medal (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When the owner of an IRA dies and leaves the IRA to his or her spouse as the sole beneficiary, there are some unique options available for handling this inherited IRA.  Keep in mind that these options are only available to a spouse a beneficiary – a non-spouse beneficiary has much more limited options available.

Options for a Spousal Beneficiary of an IRA

The first and easiest option is for the spouse to leave the IRA exactly where it is and do nothing.  In this manner, the IRA will continue to exist as belonging to the deceased spouse – for a time.  If the deceased spouse was over age 70½ years of age and subject to Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs), the surviving spouse could elect to continue receiving those RMDs using his or her late spouse’s lifetime as the distribution factor.

On the other hand, if the deceased spouse was not subject to RMDs, the surviving spouse could also begin receiving RMDs from the inherited IRA based upon his or her own age.  This is a viable option as well.

On the third hand, after leaving the IRA in the name of the deceased spouse the surviving spouse could also opt to not take RMDs from the account at all – in this case the inherited IRA would be considered to be owned by and controlled by the surviving spouse, no longer an inherited IRA.  If the surviving spouse is over age 70½, he or she will need to begin receiving RMDs from the account based on his or her age.

Another option available to a spousal beneficiary of an IRA is to rollover the account into an IRA in his or her own name.  This would give the surviving spouse the same result as the “third hand” mentioned above.

In other words, both of these last two options results in the IRA being treated as if it was owned by the surviving spouse.  He or she is eligible to make contributions to the account, take withdrawals if over age 59½ (or if one of the exceptions applies) without penalties, rollover the account to another IRA or Qualified Retirement Plan, and convert the account to a Roth IRA.

Why Would the Spouse Choose One Option Over Another?

In some instances, it could be advantageous to leave the IRA in the name of the deceased spouse.  For an example, let’s say Jane died leaving John (her husband) as the sole beneficiary of her IRA.  Jane was 70 years old and not yet subject to RMD, but eligible for penalty-free distributions.  John is 57 years old, and as such he’s not yet eligible to take IRA distributions from a regular IRA in his own name.  Once the time has passed when Jane would have reached age 70½, John will be subject to RMDs from the account based upon Jane’s age (since it’s still in her name) but if he needs the income he has it available without penalty.  If he rolls over the account to his own name at age 57 he will not have penalty-free access to the funds for 2½ more years.

So, leaving the account in Jane’s name will allow John to take withdrawals from the account without penalty.  Once John reaches age 59½ he can rollover the account to an account in his own name, which will allow him to name beneficiaries of the account on his own (otherwise the original beneficiary designations that Jane made are still controlling the account).

Another situation that might make sense for the surviving spouse to leave the account in the name of the deceased spouse is if the surviving spouse is older.  From our example, if Jane and John’s ages were switched (Jane, the deceased was 57 and John is 70) then John could benefit from leaving the account in Jane’s name. This is because he could take distributions from the account without penalty (death benefits are penalty-free) without being required to take distributions (when he reaches 70½).

At the point in the future when Jane would have been age 70½, John could rollover the IRA into an account in his own name, again so that he can name his own beneficiary for the account.  This way he didn’t have to take RMDs until that point.

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When Is a Roth IRA Subject to Income Tax?

Apr 20th, 2012
by jblankenship.
2 comments
Elaine Roth
Elaine Roth (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Ah, the Roth IRA. That single bastion of non-taxable money in our arsenal of accounts. When you have investments in a Roth IRA, you can take the money out tax-free, right? Not always.

There are several situations where a Roth IRA’s monies can be subjected to tax, penalty, or both.  Listed below are some of those circumstances.

When a Roth IRA is Taxable

It should be noted that contributions to a Roth IRA may always be withdrawn from the account tax-free, for any purpose whatsoever.  There are no restrictions on these withdrawals.

1.  Taking the money out of the account within the first five years of the account’s existence can result in taxation of a portion of the funds.  The portion that is taxable is any withdrawal that exceeds the total of all contributions and conversions into the account.  This rule applies without exceptions.

2.  If your Roth IRA has been in existence for the required five-year time, there are still some qualifications to meet in order to ensure that the withdrawals are completely tax free.  Specifically, you must

  • be at least 59½ years of age; OR
  • you must be disabled; OR
  • you must be taking no more than $10,000 more than the contribution and conversion amount(s) for a first-time home purchase; OR
  • the account owner has died.

If none of those qualifications applies, any amount greater than the conversion/contribution amounts will be subject to ordinary income taxation.

When a Roth IRA is Subject to Penalty

In addition to the specter of taxation, withdrawals from the Roth IRA could also be subject to a 10% early withdrawal penalty (much like a traditional IRA can be).  Here are a couple of cases when the 10% penalty may apply:

1.  Within five years of any conversion into a Roth IRA, if you take out amounts that include the converted funds, the withdrawal of the converted amounts will be subject to the 10% penalty. (unless one of the exceptions applies – see 19 Ways to Withdraw IRA Funds Without Penalty for more details)

2.  Even after the five year period has elapsed, if you are under age 59½ and none of the exceptions from #2 in the “Taxable” section above applies, any amount withdrawn that is greater than the conversions and contributions to the account will also be subject to the 10% penalty.

Wrap up

If the above is a bit confusing, you might need a refresher on the withdrawal sequence – how each dollar of withdrawal from a Roth IRA is attributed, and in what order.  Here’s how it goes:

First, all contributions to the account are withdrawn.  After that, all conversion amounts are withdrawn, starting with the amounts that have been converted for more than five years, and then subsequently any amounts that were converted less than five years ago (and therefore subject to penalty unless an exception applies).

After all conversions and contributions have been withdrawn, any growth in the account is withdrawn.  Growth occurs when the investments in the account gain in value or generate dividends and/or interest.  This money is taken out of the account last – and is the most likely to be both taxable and penalized if taken out before the stipulations above have been met.

For more detail on the withdrawal sequence, see the article Ordering Rules for Roth Distributions.

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A Tax-Free Roth Conversion Question of Timing

Apr 4th, 2012
by jblankenship.
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Fern Overgrowth
Fern Overgrowth (Photo credit: MightyBoyBrian)

We’ve discussed here in the past about how it is (at least under present law) a perfectly legal maneuver to make a non-deductible contribution to a traditional IRA and then at some point later convert the same contribution to your Roth IRA (see Is it Really Allowed? for more).  If you have no other IRA accounts, this conversion to Roth can be a tax-free event, especially if there has been no growth or gains in the investments in the account.

However (and there’s always a however in life) I recently came across a situation that was sent to me by a reader, where he wanted to do such a conversion, but he also wanted to rollover some money from his 401(k) plan into an IRA.  The question is in the timing – understandably, if he does the conversion from the traditional IRA to the Roth IRA, there will be no tax on the conversion, since he doesn’t have any other IRA accounts.

As we know, when taking distributions from an IRA (such as for a conversion) the taxability of the distribution depends upon the total amount of money in all IRAs, and how much is pre-tax versus how much is post-tax.

Here’s an example: Joe has an IRA with deductible contributions of $4,000 and subsequent growth of $1,000.  He is no longer eligible for deductible contributions to his account, and he also is not eligible for contributions to a Roth IRA, both due to his income level.  He wants to make a non-deductible contribution of $5,000 to the IRA and then later convert the money to his Roth IRA.  When he does the conversion, his $5,000 conversion will be partly taxed – since half of his total IRA is non-deductible contributions, every dollar he converts is 50% taxed, and 50% tax-free.

So, if Joe did the same thing except that he starts out without an IRA, and when he converts $5,000 from his traditional IRA to the Roth IRA, the entire amount of the conversion will be tax-free. Maybe.

Back to the question that the reader posed. What happens, tax-wise, if he does the non-deductible contribution and then later converts the money to Roth, and then later in the same tax year he rolls over his 401(k) plan into an IRA?

Here’s what happens: The Roth Conversion will be partly taxable.  Let’s say the 401(k) rollover is for $10,000.  At the end of the year, when the taxpayer files his tax return he’ll include a Form 8606.  On Form 8606 will be a determination of the amount of his distribution(s) from his IRA that is deemed non-taxable for the year.  This is done by developing a fraction against which his distributions are multiplied.  The fraction is as follows:

Total Non-Deductible Contributions / (Year-End Account Balance + Distribution Amounts + Outstanding Rollovers Not Yet Completed)

The key to this equation that makes his Roth Conversion partly taxable is the fact that the divisor of the equation includes his Year-End Account Balance – not the account balance at the time of his conversion.

So, in the reader’s question, the equation looks like this:

$5,000 / ($10,000 + $5,000 + 0) = 33.33% or 1/3

In other words, only 1/3 of the conversion amount will be tax-free given the circumstances.  If the rollover from the 401(k) plan is delayed to the following tax year, the full amount of the conversion distribution would have been tax-free, all other things remaining the same.

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About to Graduate? Learn How to Save!

Mar 27th, 2012
by jblankenship.
4 comments

Hey, soon-to-be-graduates: as you begin to make your way out into the world of full-time employment, you’ll soon be faced with many, many “grown up” ways to spend the money you’ll be earning.  You’ll of course have rent, insurance, food and clothing, maybe a car payment, and you’ll want to use some of that new-found money to blow off steam, however you choose to do that – maybe fulfilling a lifetime dream of getting “beaked” by Fredbird, for example.

If you’re on top of your game, you’ll may also be thinking about saving some of your earnings.  Here, you’ll have a bundle of options to choose from – regular “bank” savings accounts, 401(k) plan (or something similar) from your employer, and IRA accounts, both the traditional deductible kind and the Roth kind (hint: the Roth kind is what I want you to pay particular attention to).

Side note: even if you’re not actively thinking of saving money at this stage, chances are you’ll begin thinking about savings activities soon, and definitely at some point in the next 40 years, since saving toward retirement is pretty much YOUR own responsibility.  In the next few years you’re going to be thinking about buying a home, possibly marriage and a family, and other longer-term kinds of things that require significant amounts of money. If you start on the savings process and get it into your mindset early, you’ll be miles ahead of your peers, and you’ll probably have built up a significant savings by the time you’re ready for these goals.

As you think about savings activities and all of these types of savings accounts, it’s important to gather knowledge about the features and benefits of the various accounts and how this will play into deciding what’s the best place to put your savings.

Emergency Savings

Briefly reviewing the accounts I listed, you might start with a regular savings account at a bank.  You probably have a checking account of some type, so you can open a savings account at that same institution as well.  This account could be used for developing an emergency fund.  This is so that, when you need new tires for your car, or you need to put down a deposit on a new apartment, you’ll be able to use these funds for that purpose, rather than using a credit card or otherwise going into debt.

Another very good reason to have an emergency fund is to help you get by if you should happen to find yourself unemployed.  I’d suggest putting enough into your emergency fund to cover your monthly expenses for at least 3 months.  If you’re conservative you might put as much as a year’s worth of expenses into the account – in either case, maintain that level over time, in tandem with your other savings activities.  This saving can be done automatically, via automatic transfer from your checking account, for example.  By automatically saving, you won’t have to *decide* if you’re going to save – it will happen without you having to make a decision.

There are no significant tax benefits with a savings account, so your saving activities should include some of the other plans that you have available.

Retirement Saving – 401(k)

Next, once you’ve begun your emergency fund, you should begin thinking about longer-term saving.  If you have a 401(k) plan available via your employer (or a comparable plan, such as a 403(b) or a 457 plan), you should consider taking advantage of this.  This is especially true if your employer offers a “matching” program – where the employer will put money into the account as you put money into it.  Often this matching is done either on a dollar-for-dollar basis up to a certain percent, or on a percentage of contributions.

For example, the company might match your contributions dollar-for-dollar up to 3% of your salary – meaning that if you put 1% of your salary into the account, the company will also put 1% into the account on your behalf.  You can put as much as 3% (for this example) into the account and the company will match it.  You will be eligible to put more in the account than what the company matches, but at this stage you might want to limit it to matched amount (more on this in a bit).

The other example that I gave is where the company matches on a percentage basis – this might be expressed as 50% matching up to a 6% employee contribution.  If this was the case, when you put in 1%, the company would match your contribution with a .5% contribution.  If you put in 4%, the company would match it with 2%, and so on, up to a 3% match for your 6% contribution.

The benefit of this kind of account is that, as you contribute money to the account, it’s taken out of your paycheck PRIOR to income tax, which will then reduce your taxable income for the year.  The money in the account (including the employer matches, which you’re also not taxed on in the current year) is then invested, hopefully growing over time.  The growth in the account is likewise untaxed, until you take the money out of the account.  At that time, you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the money that you take out of the account.

The downside to this kind of account is that, generally, the money that you put into the account is more or less locked up until you reach age 59½.  While there are ways to get at the money before that point, the real purpose of this account is to save toward retirement, so any money you put into your 401(k) plan should be considered very long-range savings.

Retirement – Traditional IRA

If you don’t happen to have a 401(k) plan available at your employer, another option to consider for longer-range saving is the Traditional IRA.  The way this works is that you open the IRA account and put up to $5,000 (and when you are over age 50, you can put an additional $1,000) into the account each year. Then, when you file your income tax return for the year, you are eligible to deduct that contribution amount from your income (subject to limits).

After that, the Traditional IRA acts pretty much like the 401(k) plan described before: your savings (hopefully) grows via investments and no tax is owed until you take the money out of the account – usually at age 59½ or later.  At that time you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the money as you withdraw it.  As with the 401(k) you *could* take the money out earlier, but generally there would be penalties for doing so.  As such, the Traditional IRA should be for your longer-term savings.

Retirement and other goals – Roth IRA

FINALLY – we’ve gotten to the account that I brought you here to talk about: the Roth IRA.

A Roth IRA is a little bit like the savings account, in that it doesn’t present any tax savings for you as you put money into it (like the Traditional IRA or the 401(k) plan does).  However, the real tax benefit comes as your account grows over time – when you take the money out after age 59½, there is no ordinary income tax owed on any of the money that you withdraw!

This is a big deal.  You can put in as much as $5,000 per year (same as the Traditional IRA), and as that money grows over time, you won’t have to pay tax on it if you leave it in the account until age 59½.  If you started saving $5,000 per year in a Roth account at age 22 and continued this until you were 42, I’ve illustrated how this could eventually become $33 million over time.

Possibly even a bigger deal is that you can use the Roth IRA as a sort of emergency fund, in addition to a retirement fund.  The money that you’ve contributed to the Roth IRA over time can be withdrawn at any time for any purpose, without tax or penalty.  The investment growth is restricted (like the other retirement accounts mentioned above, to age 59½ or older), but the money you contribute is unrestricted!  This could give you that extra amount that you need for a down-payment on a home, for example.

It’s best to be very judicious in your use of this privilege, since the account is primarily for retirement – but it’s nice to know that you have this option available.

Conclusion

Let’s say that you have started a new job making $30,000 a year.  After taxes are taken out, you have something on the order of $1,800 left each month.  Taking care of rent, insurance, car payment, and all the other things you have to pay (don’t forget the “beaking”!), leaves you with $200 a month for saving.

Let’s say you earmark $50 for your emergency savings.  Then, your employer provides a 3% matching plan for your 401(k), which amounts to $75 per month.  Keeping things simple, let’s say that this leaves you with $75 for other savings activities.  A Roth IRA is an excellent place to put this additional money.

The reason that a Roth IRA is the preferred place to put your excess savings money is because of the tax rate that you’re in at the present.  The savings in tax would be something on the order of $11.25 if you put this additional $75 into a Traditional IRA or a 401(k) plan, and then you’d have your money locked up until retirement. Since you’re already (rightly) taking advantage of the 401(k) plan (and doubling your money via the employer match), using the Roth IRA provides you with an additional way to save with a diversified tax treatment.

All in all, the Roth IRA presents you with a very cost-effective way to save money over time, especially when you’re at the lower end of the tax brackets.

If you’re needing a few more reasons to go with the Roth IRA, try this: if you’re going to grad school, your contributions in your Roth IRA account could be used to help pay for school, but at the same time – retirement accounts in general are not included as sources when calculating financial aid.  Plus, as you make contributions to a Roth IRA (also to other retirement accounts), depending on your income level you may be eligible for the Saver’s Credit.  This is up to a 50% tax credit for your contributions to a retirement plan, including the Roth IRA.

Full Disclosure: That’s my daughter Emma being “beaked” by Fredbird.  She’s a soon-to-be graduate of Western Illinois University, Class of ’12, and proud owner of a Roth IRA.

The SEP IRA Explained

Mar 21st, 2012
by jblankenship.
2 comments
social responsibility of business
(Photo credit: ocean.flynn)

One of the more unique types of retirement accounts is the Simplified Employee Pension IRA, or SEP IRA for short.  This plan is designed for self-employed folks, as well as for small businesses of all tax organization, whether a corporation (S corp or C corp), sole proprietorship, LLC, LLP, or partnership.

The primary benefit of this plan is that it’s simplified (as the name implies) and very little expense or paperwork is involved in the setup and administration of the plan.  The SEP becomes less beneficial when more employees are added, and there are some additional options available in other plans (such as a 401(k)) that may be more desirable to the business owner.

SEP IRAs have a completely different set of contribution limits from the other kinds of IRAs and retirement plans.  For example, in 2012, you can contribute up to $50,000 to a SEP IRA. That amount is limited to 20% of the net self-employment income, or 25% of wage income if the individual is an employee of the business.

The account for each participant is an IRA, just like any other IRA (other than the contribution limits mentioned above).  You’re allowed to invest in any valid investment security, rollover the plan (upon termination of employment) and direct the plan to your heirs however you wish.

Money contributed to the plan is not taxed to the employee/participant upon contribution, and any growth in the account is tax-deferred until distribution.  At the distribution of the funds, the money will be taxed as ordinary income.  Upon reaching age 59½ you can access the funds without penalty – otherwise, unless you meet one of the early distribution exceptions, there is a 10% penalty imposed in addition to the income tax on the distribution.  At age 70½ you will be required to begin taking minimum distributions from the account, just like any other IRA.

Additionally, a SEP IRA can be established up to the filing date for your business entity – as late as April 15 of the following year if you like.  This is different from a 401(k), for example, which must be established during the tax year.

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What types of accounts can I rollover into?

Mar 14th, 2012
by jblankenship.
No comments yet
OMG IRA
OMG IRA (Photo credit: girlonaglide)

When you have money in several accounts and you’d like to have that money consolidated in one place, the question comes up – Which type of account can be tax-free rolled over into which other type of accounts?

Thankfully, the IRS has provided a simple matrix to help with this question. At this link you’ll find the matrix, sourced from IRS Publication 590.

In terms of explanation, here are a few rules to remember:

You can generally rollover one account of any variety (IRA, Roth IRA, 401(k), and so on) into another account of the exact same type.

You can rollover a Traditional IRA into just about any other tax-deferral plan, including 401(k), 403(b), 457(b), as well as a SEP IRA.  The same goes for each of the accounts in reverse as well as between all of these types of accounts.  In general, employer plans such as 401(k), 403(b) and 457(b) plans are not eligible to rollover until the employee has left the job.

You can also rollover any of these accounts into a Roth IRA – but you’ll have to pay tax on the rollover amount.  This is known as a Roth Conversion.

A SIMPLE IRA generally cannot accept a rollover of any other type of account (other than another SIMPLE IRA) into the account.  On the other hand, a SIMPLE IRA can be rolled over into any of the other tax-deferred plans – IRA, 401(k), 403(b), 457(b) or SEP IRA – but only after the SIMPLE IRA has been established for at least two years.

A Designated Roth Account (DRAC), which is part of a 401(k), 403(b), or 457(b) plan, can only be rolled over into another DRAC or a Roth IRA.  Likewise, a Roth IRA is only eligible to be rolled over into another Roth IRA.

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The Rollover

Mar 7th, 2012
by jblankenship.
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A Chevrolet Malibu involved in a rollover crash
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You’ve heard it millions of times – on the radio or tv – “when you leave your job, you should roll over your retirement account”. You may know that it makes sense (or at least you assume it makes sense, otherwise why would these folks admonish you to do so?), but do you know why it’s important? And do you have the first clue as to how to accomplish a rollover?

Why rollover? Among the reasons that it is important to rollover your retirement account when you leave employment is that you want to have control over your money. If you leave the account with the former employer, you are effectively handing over a portion of the control of your money to the administrator.

This administrator’s primary job is to ensure that the plan remains as effective and efficient as possible, for your former employer. Your interests are not taken into account at all, and in fact, many activities that the administrator undertakes (and subsequently charges the cost of to the plan accounts) are of no benefit to you whatsoever, as a former employee. By rolling your funds over to a self-directed IRA, you can make sure that the costs associated with your account’s maintenance are directly benefiting your own account.

In addition, by rolling over your retirement funds into an IRA, you now have more flexibility in the investment choices that you can utilize. Remember how your employer’s qualified plan only had five or ten mutual funds to choose from? Now, you can invest in just about any fund, stock, bond, or ETF available in the marketplace, plus some that you can dream up on your own.

How to roll over? We’ve covered (albeit briefly) the “why”, so now we’ll cover the “how”. It’s actually pretty simple, as long as you follow a couple of important rules. Both of these are related to maintaining the tax-deferred nature of your investment.

The first rule is that you should always have an account set up to receive the monies before requesting the withdrawal from your current plan. If you don’t have a place to put the money, the plan administrator will assume that you’re taking a “cash out” distribution, and they’ll withhold 20% tax on the withdrawal. The way to resolve this is to ensure that your withdrawal paperwork (with your old account) indicates a “direct rollover” is occurring. At the same time, your deposit paperwork with your new account will indicate the same. The old plan administrator may still send a check to your home address, but it will be made out to the new account custodian.

The second rule is related to the first, but this is one that you can foul up even if you’ve gotten the paperwork filled out correctly: your rollover must occur within the span of 60 days, or you’ll be penalized as if you withdrew the money to cash out the plan – 10%, plus ordinary income tax on the withdrawal.

As I indicated earlier, the current (old) plan administrator may send you a check for your rollover, made out to the new custodian – but it’s up to you to make sure that you get the check sent to the new plan custodian as soon as possible, so that there’s no danger of taking more than 60 days to complete the roll over.

The entire process is simple enough, following the steps below:

1. establish your new account
2. request a “direct rollover” withdrawal from your old plan
3. receive the rollover check
4. submit the check with the appropriate “direct rollover” deposit slip at your new account.

As you can see, the process is straightforward, but if you don’t pay close attention to what’s going on, or if one of your plan administrators (either the new one or your old one) has a special “twist” to the process, it can become a mess.

Note: steps 3 and 4 are not required if the transfer is done in a trustee-to-trustee manner, meaning that the old account administrator sends the funds directly to the new account trustee, and you never see a check.  This is one of the most common ways to ensure that you don’t miss the 60-day window. For more information, see An IRA Owner’s Manual.

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