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401 k

Don’t Just Walk by That Dime on the Ground!

The Government Dime

The Government Dime (Photo credit: scismgenie)

Have you ever been walking along the street and saw a dime on the ground?  Did you just walk right by, or did you stop to pick it up?  Heck, it’s only a dime, it’s not hardly worth the effort to bend over, right?  But what if it was a dollar?  Or a hundred dollars?  You wouldn’t just walk by that, would you?  What about $1,200?

Unfortunately, many folks do this very thing with their 401(k) plan employer matching funds.  Most employers that sponsor 401(k) plans provide a matching contribution when you defer money into the plan.  Often this is expressed as a certain percentage of your own contribution, such as 50% of your first 6% of contributions to the plan.

So if you make $40,000 a year and you contribute 6% to the 401(k) plan, that means you’ll be contributing $2,400 to the plan from your own funds, pre-tax.  Since your employer contributes 50% of your first 6%, you’ll have an additional $1,200 added to the account for the year.

If you can only afford to contribute 2% (or $800) to the plan, you’re still getting an additional 50% of your contribution added by your employer for a total of $1,200 for the year.  It still makes sense to participate even if you can’t maximize the employer contributions.

However, if you choose not to participate at all, you are giving up the extra money from your employer – forever.  You can’t go back and get this money later when you think you can afford to.  You’re essentially walking by that $1,200 that’s just sitting there on the ground waiting for you to pick it up.

Arguments against

After having this conversation with several folks, I’ve heard many different excuses to not take advantage of a 401(k) plan.  The excuses usually fall into a few limited camps, which I have listed a below.

It’s my money! You’re darn right it is!  And if you don’t participate in your 401(k) plan you’re throwing some of *your* money away.  Many times people believe that when they put money into a 401(k) plan, it’s gone for good.  Nothing could be more untrue!  The 401(k) plan is your property. All of your contributions and (as long as you’re vested in the plan) the employer contributions are yours to keep.  Granted, it’s locked up behind some significant fees and penalties until you reach retirement age (59½ in most cases) – but it’s still yours.

I don’t trust my company – they’ll go bankrupt and lose my money! As noted above, the 401(k) account is yours, not the company’s.  Even if the company goes bankrupt completely, as long as you haven’t invested your entire 401(k) plan in company stock (a la Enron), you still have your 401(k) plan intact.  They can’t lose your money, in other words!  It’s not theirs to lose.

I can’t afford to put money in the plan!  These days, money can be pretty tight (but when isn’t it?).  Unfortunately, regardless of how much money you make, it’s always possible to spend up to and more than what you bring home each payday.  The reverse of this is also true.  Within limits, it’s usually possible to make do with less.  If your paycheck was a dollar less every payday you’d figure out how to get by, right?  How about $78 less?

Using our example from above, for a single person with an annual income of $40,000 per year, before you participate in the 401(k) plan, your total income tax would be approximately $4,054.  If you chose to put 6% or $2,400 in your company 401(k) plan, your income tax would work out to $3,694 – $360 less.  So your take home pay would only reduce by about $78 per paycheck (if you’re paid every other week).  In return for this annual reduction of $2,040 in take-home pay, you’d now have a 401(k) account with $3,600 in it when counting the employer contributions.

Pretty sweet deal, if you asked me (but you didn’t, I just threw this in your face!).  For a total “cost” of $78 per paycheck, you get lower taxes PLUS a retirement savings account worth 75% more than what you had to give up.  Not too shabby.

One great benefit of participating in a 401(k) plan is that once you’ve made the decision to participate, you are deferring this income before it makes it into your hands. You don’t have to (or get to) make a decision about saving, it’s done automatically.  This helps you to get past one of the real difficulties that many folks face with saving: the money always seems to find another place.  This way it automatically goes into savings, before it can find another place.

The bottom line

The best and most important way to assure success in retirement savings is to put away more money over time.  Of course your investment returns will help, but if you don’t save the money, it can’t produce returns, right?  So do yourself a favor and don’t walk past that $1,200 that’s just lying on the ground!

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Avoid Awkwardness in the Afterlife–Confirm Your Beneficiary Designations

Withholding Water

This is a topic that I cover with all clients, and one that I recommend you for everyone with retirement plans and other accounts with beneficiary designations.  Too often we think we have the beneficiary designation form filled out just the way we want it, and then (once it’s too late) it is discovered that the form hadn’t been updated recently – and the designation is not what we hoped for.

I made this recommendation to a client not long ago.  He assured me that he had all of his designations set up just the way he wanted.  His wife, sitting next to him in our meeting, asked him to make sure – talk to the IRA custodian and get a copy of the designation as it stands today.  A bit miffed about it all, he agreed to do so, and did the next day.  Guess what he found – as it stood on that day, his IRA beneficiary designation form indicated 100% of his IRA would pass to his ex-wife from 15 years ago!  Plus, he had no secondary beneficiaries named, which meant that if the ex predeceased him, HER heirs would be the primaries.  Thankfully he had checked on this to avoid this awkward and possibly devastating situation.

Know what was fixed pretty much immediately?

Take the time

You owe it to yourself and your heirs to take the time to review your beneficiary designations and keep copies of them in your “dead file”.  This includes IRAs, Roth IRAs, 401(k)/403(b)/457 plans, and other pensions or retirement plans.  You also may have POD or TOD (Pay on Death or Transfer on Death) designations on non-retirement accounts – confirm these and keep copies as well.

For your standard retirement accounts, such as IRAs, 401(k)s and the like, you typically have the option of naming a primary beneficiary (or beneficiaries) and a secondary or contingent beneficiary or beneficiaries.  It makes a huge difference on these accounts that you name a specific person (or persons) as the primary beneficiary, and a specific person (or persons) as the contingent beneficiary.  With IRAs, if you leave the designation blank, you may be taking away important options for your heirs.

If you leave the primary beneficiary designation blank you are leaving the transfer of your IRA up to the custodian’s default designation.  Quick! What’s your IRA custodian’s default beneficiary designation??  I didn’t think you’d know.

Often this default is your spouse first, and then your “issue” – meaning your children and other descendants.  Other times, the default beneficiary is your estate.  In the event that the estate is the default beneficiary, any beneficiaries of the estate will receive the IRA, but they will not be able to utilize the “stretch” option of receiving payout of the account over their remaining lifetimes.  This is because the IRS rules state that a “named beneficiary” must be in place in order to use the stretch provision.  If no “named beneficiary” exists, the stretch option is not allowed.  If the default is your spouse and your issue, these can be treated as “named beneficiary” if they are alive.

Discuss with your heirs

At face value, even though you think your intent for your beneficiary designations is clear, it might not be clear to your heirs.  For example, you may have chosen to pass along half of your IRA to your youngest child and only a quarter to the older two children because you believe the youngest child can use the money more than the other two.  Or maybe you decided to leave the entire IRA to your oldest daughter, and you want to designate your three sons to split up the farmland – which you believe is an equitable division.

Whatever you’ve decided, especially if there are perceived inequities in your division plan, you should take the time to review your plan with your heirs.  If that makes you uncomfortable, there are a couple of things to consider: First, if you’re uncomfortable discussing it with them, imagine how uncomfortable your heirs may be when the time comes to distribute your estate.  Maybe it’s not such a good idea after all if it could cause contention among your heirs.  Second, if you still believe your split is the right way to go, you should explain your plan to someone – your designated executor would be a good choice. And the designated executor should be a disinterested separate party, someone who isn’t receiving benefit from your estate plan, in order to keep the process “clean”.  Otherwise, if one of the heirs is your executor and the executor is perceived to receive preferential treatment, again you’ll have some contention among your heirs.

If there are complex instructions involved, consider making an addendum to your will.  Instructions in your will would have no impact on the beneficiary designations on your IRAs and other plans (these pass outside of your estate as long as you’ve made specific designations) but other asset divisions aside from retirement accounts may require explanation for your heirs to understand your intent.  Don’t expect that everyone will understand or agree with your thought process when you’re gone.  Explaining your thought process in advance will likely help to ensure that your division plan doesn’t result in a family rift.

Take the time to review your beneficiary designations.  Make sure that you have the primary beneficiary or beneficiaries that you want, and the percentages that you’d like each to have.  Also make sure that you have named contingent beneficiary or beneficiaries in the event that your primaries have predeceased you.  Lastly, make sure that you note how division is done after the death of the beneficiaries: per stirpes or per capita.

How Dollar-Cost-Averaging Can Work to Your Advantage for Your 401(k)

Average Afternoon on Highway 401

When you invest in your 401(k) plan with salary deferrals from each and every paycheck, you are taking part in a process known as Dollar-Cost-Averaging (DCA).  This process can be advantageous when investing periodically over a long span of time, by smoothing out the volatility of the market and giving you an average cost of your investment shares over time.

How does this work, and how can it be advantageous?

Dollar-Cost-Averaging

When deferring income with each paycheck, typically you will be investing in your 401(k) plan each pay period, whether monthly, bi-weekly, or weekly.  Each pay period the same amount is deferred and invested, no matter what the price of the underlying investments are at the time.  Since you’re always putting the same amount into the investment, when the price of the shares is higher, you purchase fewer shares; when the price is lower, you are purchasing more shares.

Note: DCA can be used with any type of investment account, including a 401(k), 403(b), IRA, or even a non-tax-deferred investment account.  We’ll refer to 401(k) accounts throughout the article since this is one of the more common accounts where DCA is employed.

For example, let’s say that you defer $100 every two weeks into your 401(k) plan, and your investment is an index fund.  For the first pay period the price of the fund is $10.  When you make your deferral and purchase this time, your $100 purchases 10 shares.

Then, in the next pay period the price of the shares of your index fund has increased to $10.50.  Now your $100 purchases 9.5238 shares, and you have a total of 19.5238 shares, at a price of $10.50 per share, for a total account value of $205.

On the following pay period the price of your index fund has fallen to $9.50 per share.  Your $100 deferred will purchase 10.5263 shares of the fund – you now have a total of 30.0501 shares at a price of $9.50, with a total account value of $285.48.

The table below plays out purchases with random amounts over a year and then tallies the result:

Pay Period Amount Deferred Price Per Share
Shares Purchased
Total Shares Total Value
1 $100 $10.55 9.4787 9.4787 $100.00
2 $100 $10.44 9.5785 19.0572 $198.96
3 $100 $9.92 10.0806 29.1378 $289.05
4 $100 $10.33 9.6805 38.8183 $400.99
5 $100 $11.95 8.3682 47.1865 $563.88
6 $100 $11.36 8.8028 55.9893 $636.04
7 $100 $9.14 10.9409 66.9302 $611.74
8 $100 $9.54 10.4822 77.4124 $738.51
9 $100 $11.67 8.569 85.9814 $1003.40
10 $100 $9.76 10.2459 96.2273 $939.18
11 $100 $10.46 9.5602 105.7875 $1106.54
12 $100 $9.62 10.395 116.1825 $1117.68
13 $100 $10.23 9.7752 125.9577 $1288.55
14 $100 $10.70 9.3458 135.3035 $1447.75
15 $100 $10.40 9.6154 144.9189 $1507.16
16 $100 $11.52 8.6806 153.5995 $1769.47
17 $100 $11.37 8.7951 162.3946 $1846.43
18 $100 $10.91 9.1659 171.5605 $1871.73
19 $100 $11.55 8.658 180.2185 $2081.52
20 $100 $10.37 9.6432 189.8617 $1968.87
21 $100 $10.19 9.8135 199.6752 $2034.69
22 $100 $9.98 10.02 209.6952 $2092.76
23 $100 $11.89 8.4104 218.1056 $2593.28
24 $100 $11.82 8.4602 226.5658 $2678.01
25 $100 $10.33 9.6805 236.2463 $2440.42
26 $100 $11.41 8.7642 245.0105 $2795.57

The table above was created by generating random prices between $9 and $11.99 over the 26 periods. In real life, your investment wouldn’t likely have such wildly-fluctuating values during the course of 26 pay periods – I used this degree of fluctuation to demonstrate the benefit of DCA when the investment is relatively volatile.

The Advantage

If, instead of investing $100 every two weeks you saved up the entire $2600 and invested it at the end of the 26th pay period, you would be purchasing all of the shares at $11.41, for a total of 227.8703 shares.  By DCA, your $2600 has increased in value such that you hold 245.0105 shares, with a value of $2795.57 – a net benefit of $195.57.

On the other hand, if you had $2600 to invest at the beginning of the table when the price was $10.55 per share, you would have purchased a total of 246.4455 shares, which would be worth a total of $2811.94 at the end of the 26 periods.

You can see from the table that by Dollar-Cost-Averaging, you achieve an average price per share over the period that is beneficial to you – since you’re purchasing exactly the same dollar amount of shares every time.  When the price is high, you buy fewer shares, and when the price is low you buy more shares.  By doing this over a long period of time, such as 30 years, you will avoid the risk associated with saving up a large sum of money and (perhaps) purchasing shares in an investment at a relatively high price by comparison over the savings period.

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Add Your First 1% to Your 401(k)

Employee Service Awards

Many of my fellow bloggers and I have become concerned about how low the rate of savings has been for Americans in general.  To see a list of all of the articles in the 1% More Movement, check out the article at this link.

Since November is traditionally the time when corporate employees make elections for all other benefits, including health insurance, life insurance, and other employee benefits, now is a good time to also consider increasing your 401(k) contributions.

For my article, I’m focusing on the employee who hasn’t been participating in a 401(k) plan at all.

Your First 1% in Your 401(k)

If you haven’t been putting anything at all into your 401(k) plan at all, putting that first 1% into the 401(k) plan can be a little scary.  But you need to know that this is a monumental action.  Getting started with savings is the most important step you can take – and it’s only scary for a little while.  Keep reading, you’ll see how putting aside that first 1% can be relatively painless, and after a while, it gets to be fun watching your account increase in value.

For our example, let’s say you make $30,000 annually and your employer matches 401(k) contributions as follows:

100% of the first 2% of contributions

50% of the next 2% of contributions

25% of the next 2% of contributions

Your net paycheck today, when you’re not making any 401(k) contributions, is $884.82 – this is after taxes and insurance premiums have been deducted.  When you make the decision to contribute 1% of your income to your 401(k), you will be putting aside $11.54 every paycheck (assuming you’re paid 26 times a year).  The end result is that your paycheck will only go down by $5.91, to approximately $878.91 – the total amount you’ll “lose” from your take-home pay over the course of the year is $153.66.

Since your employer matches 100% of your first 2% in contributions, for this first 1% contribution you’re making, you’ll actually have a total of $23.08 in your account every two weeks when you get paid.  At the end of the year, a total of $600.08 will be set aside for you, and all you had to do was learn how to get by on $12.80 less per month!  I think you’ll agree that this is doable, right?

Now get out there and do it!  Add 1% to your 401(k) plan right away, it will definitely pay off in the long run, and you’ll never miss it.

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Calling All Bloggers – Let’s Increase America’s Savings Rate in November!

ceramic piggy bank

I’m sure that I’m not alone in the financial planning world with my concern about the rate of saving toward retirement across this great land.  Recent figures have shown that we Americans are doing a little bit better of late, at a 5% savings rate versus around 1% back in 2005 – but this is a dismal figure when you consider how most folks are coming up short when they want to retire.  Rather than sitting by idly and wringing my hands, I thought maybe something could be done to encourage an increase in savings – if only by 1%, this can be a significant step for lots of folks.  And now, in November, is the perfect time to do this, as most corporations are going through the annual benefit election cycle, so the 401(k) (or 403(b), 457, or other savings plan) is right at the forefront for many folks.

I’m proposing that all financially-oriented bloggers sharpen up their electronic pencils and write a column to encourage folks to increase their 401(k) savings by at least 1% more than last year.  I’d suggest taking a new look at this situation, perhaps suggesting ways that people can free up money to devote toward savings, for example.  I know you folks have a lot of great ideas, so don’t let my lame suggestions limit you!

In order to keep it oriented toward the benefits enrollment period for many companies, we should probably produce these articles between now and Thanksgiving.  Of course, most folks can make an increase to savings at any time, but while employees are looking at benefit options is a good time to strike while the iron’s hot.  If you’re interested in joining this action, send me a note at jim@blankenshipfinancial.com and let me know when you’ve posted your article.  I’ll keep a list of all of the articles with links on a blog post at my blog – this way anyone who’s looking for ideas on how to increase savings can find a multitude of ways to do so.

Thanks in advance for your help!

jb

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Retirement Plan Contribution Limits for 2013

Employee of the Month Reserved Parking Sign

The IRS recently published the new contribution limits for various retirement plans for 2013.  These limits are indexed to inflation, and as such sometimes they do not increase much year over year, and sometimes they don’t increase at all.

This year we saw across-the-board increases for most all contribution amounts, and as usual the income limits increased as well.  This provides increased opportunity for savings via these tax-preferred vehicles.

IRAs

The annual contribution limit for IRAs (both traditional and Roth) increased from $5,000 in 2012 to $5,500 in 2013.  The “catch up” amount, for folks age 50 or over, remains at $1,000.

The income limits for traditional (deductible) IRAs increased slightly from last year: for singles covered by a retirement plan, your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI) must be less than $59,000 for a full deduction; phased deduction is allowed up to an AGI of $69,000.  This is an increase of $1,000 over the limits for last year.  For married folks filing jointly who are covered by a retirement plan by his or her employer, the AGI limit is increased to $95,000, phased out at $115,000, which is a $3,000 increase over last year’s limits.  For married folks filing jointly who are not covered by a workplace retirement plan but are married to someone who is covered, the AGI limit for deduction is $178,000, phased out at $188,000; this is an increase of $5,000 over 2012’s limits.

The income limits for Roth IRA contributions also increased: single folks with an AGI less than $112,000 can make a full contribution, and this is phased out up to an AGI of $127,000.  For married folks filing jointly, the AGI limits are $178,000 to $188,000 for Roth contributions, up by $5,000 over 2012.

401(k), 403(b), 457 and SARSEP plans

For the traditional employer-based retirement plans, the amount of deferred income allowed has increased as well. For 2013, employees are allowed to defer up to $17,500 (up from $17,000) with a catch up amount of $5,500 for those over age 50 (unchanged from 2012).  If you happen to work for a governmental agency that offers a 457 plan in addition to a 401(k) or 403(b) plan, you can double up and defer as much as $35,000 plus catch-ups.

The limits for contributions to Roth 401(k) and Roth 403(b) are the same as traditional plans – the limit is for all plans of that type in total.  You are allowed to contribute up to the limit for either a Roth plan or a traditional plan, or a combination of the two.

SIMPLE

Savings Incentive Match Plans for Employees (SIMPLE) deferral limits also increased, from $11,500 to $12,000 for 2013.  The catch up amount remains the same as 2012 at $2,500, for folks at or older than age 50.

Saver’s Credit

The income limits for receiving the Saver’s Credit for contributing to a retirement plan increased for 2013.  The AGI limit for married filing jointly increased from $57,500 to $59,000; for singles the new limit is $29,500 (up from $28,750); and for heads of household, the AGI limit is $44,250, an increase from $43,125.  The saver’s credit rewards low and moderate income taxpayers who are working hard and need more help saving for retirement.  The table below provides more details on how the saver’s credit works:

Filing Status/Adjusted Gross Income for 2013
Amount of Credit Married Filing Jointly Head of Household Single/Others
50% of first $2,000 deferred $0 to $35,500 $0 to $26,625 $0 to $17,750
20% of first $2,000 deferred $35,501 to $38,500 $26,626 to $28,875 $17,751 to $19,250
10% of first $2,000 deferred $38,501 to $55,500 $28,876 to $44,250 $19,251 to $29,500
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What If My Employer Doesn’t Match My 401(k) Contributions?

Lighting a match

Should I continue to make contributions to my 401(k)? Is there something else that I should make contributions to instead?

As you may recall, the recommended order for retirement savings contributions is normally as follows:

  • 401(k) contributions up to the amount that the company matches
  • max out your Roth or traditional IRA contributions for the year (as applicable)
  • max out the remainder of the available 401(k) contributions
  • make taxable investment contributions

In the situation where your employer doesn’t match your contributions to a 401(k) plan, the order of contributions is more appropriate if you bump up the Roth or traditional IRA contributions.  In other words, just eliminate the first bulletpoint.

Now, the choice of Roth IRA versus the traditional IRA for your contributions is dependent upon your income and the tax impacts.  For example, you would not be eligible to make a deductible traditional IRA contribution if your Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI) is greater than $112,000 (if you’re married and filing jointly), or $68,000 if you’re single. (Contribution limits are for 2012 tax year.)

Since the deductible traditional IRA has the ability of being deducted from your income, making your contribution there could decrease taxes.  If you’re in a position to take advantage of this, you should probably go this route.  In the case where you’re married and your spouse isn’t covered by a retirement plan – either he doesn’t work outside the home or his employer doesn’t have a retirement plan – you can make a deductible IRA contribution for your spouse as well if your MAGI is less than $183,000.

On the other hand, if your MAGI is greater than $112,000 (MFJ) or $68,000 (Single), a Roth IRA contribution might be the best first option for retirement savings contributions.  The Roth IRA contribution is available to you if your MAGI is less than $183,000 (MFJ) or $125,000 (Single).  The Roth IRA contribution doesn’t reduce taxes for you currently – but in the future your distributions from the account can be tax-free if qualified.

If you don’t fit into those income categories, you still have the option of making non-deductible contributions to a traditional IRA for the tax year.  Again, there’s not a tax benefit in the current year, but there are benefits to making such a contribution – such as the ability to convert the funds from this traditional account to a Roth IRA later – that will make the contribution worthwhile.

The reason that the use of either a Roth IRA or a traditional IRA is the first choice (if available to you) over a non-matched 401(k) plan is because with the IRAs, you have much better control over your costs, investment choices, and fewer restrictions on non-qualified distributions.

The 401(k) still offers the greatest amount of tax-deferral – up to $22,500 if you’re over age 50, $17,000 otherwise – versus a maximum contribution of $6,000 ($5,000 if under age 50) for the IRAs.  This is the reason that the 401(k) account is still a good choice for making retirement savings contributions, even if your employer doesn’t match your contributions. So if you have more money to contribute to your retirement savings than the initial $5,000 (or $6,000 if over age 50), the 401(k) should definitely still be a part of your plan.

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What is Meant by Half Years of Age?

fireworks

If you’ve paid much attention to the rules around retirement plans (IRAs, 401(k)s, and others), you’ve probably noticed that there are a couple of rules that refer to ages that include “½”.  So what does this mean??

Well, quite literally, this means 6 months after you reach a certain age.  The two primary ages with “½” included are 59½ and 70½.  So, to be age 59½, means that you reached your 59th birthday six months prior to that date.  Likewise, to be age 70½ means that you reached age 70 six months prior to that date.

These two ages are for different purposes and are (naturally) treated differently.

Age 59½

The rule using age 59½ is for one of the exceptions to the penalty for early withdrawals from your IRA or 401(k) plan: once you’ve reached that age (and not before that age) you can take withdrawals from your IRA or 401(k) plan without limits (401(k) plans may also require a separation from service).

Here is an important point: this rule is specifically applied ONCE YOU REACH AGE 59½, and not before.  In the year that you will reach this age, any withdrawals taken from the account before you reach age 59½ will be subject to the 10% penalty if no other exceptions apply.

Age 70½

The rule using age 70½ is regarding Required Minimum Distributions (RMD), as well as limiting contributions to an IRA.  For RMDs, the requirement is simply that you must begin taking the required distributions for the year in which you’ll reach age 70½.  (You can actually delay the first distribution until April 1 of the following year, but the distribution is based on the year when you reach age 70½.)

Note that this is different from the way the 59½ rule works: it’s simply the year in which you’ll reach age 70½, not the specific date that you reach age 70½.  So if your birthday is between January 1 and June 30, your age 70½ year is the year that you reach 70 years of age.  If your birthday is between July 1 and December 31, your age 70½ year is the year that you’ll be reach 71 years of age.

The same holds true for contributions to an IRA: in the year that you’ll reach 70½, you are not allowed to make contributions, and you are not allowed to make contributions thereafter.

You Don’t Have to Count Days

The good news is that you don’t have to count days.  For the purposes of these rules, the half year is the same date, six months later.  For a birthdate of May 11, the half year is reached on November 11 of that same year.  For odd circumstances, such as August 31, of course you’ve reached the half year on February 31 of the following year.  Actually, I believe the rule is that you reach that milestone on March 3 – I’d use this date if you are in this situation, just to be certain.

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About to Graduate? Learn How to Save!

Hey, soon-to-be-graduates: as you begin to make your way out into the world of full-time employment, you’ll soon be faced with many, many “grown up” ways to spend the money you’ll be earning.  You’ll of course have rent, insurance, food and clothing, maybe a car payment, and you’ll want to use some of that new-found money to blow off steam, however you choose to do that – maybe fulfilling a lifetime dream of getting “beaked” by Fredbird, for example.

If you’re on top of your game, you’ll may also be thinking about saving some of your earnings.  Here, you’ll have a bundle of options to choose from – regular “bank” savings accounts, 401(k) plan (or something similar) from your employer, and IRA accounts, both the traditional deductible kind and the Roth kind (hint: the Roth kind is what I want you to pay particular attention to).

Side note: even if you’re not actively thinking of saving money at this stage, chances are you’ll begin thinking about savings activities soon, and definitely at some point in the next 40 years, since saving toward retirement is pretty much YOUR own responsibility.  In the next few years you’re going to be thinking about buying a home, possibly marriage and a family, and other longer-term kinds of things that require significant amounts of money. If you start on the savings process and get it into your mindset early, you’ll be miles ahead of your peers, and you’ll probably have built up a significant savings by the time you’re ready for these goals.

As you think about savings activities and all of these types of savings accounts, it’s important to gather knowledge about the features and benefits of the various accounts and how this will play into deciding what’s the best place to put your savings.

Emergency Savings

Briefly reviewing the accounts I listed, you might start with a regular savings account at a bank.  You probably have a checking account of some type, so you can open a savings account at that same institution as well.  This account could be used for developing an emergency fund.  This is so that, when you need new tires for your car, or you need to put down a deposit on a new apartment, you’ll be able to use these funds for that purpose, rather than using a credit card or otherwise going into debt.

Another very good reason to have an emergency fund is to help you get by if you should happen to find yourself unemployed.  I’d suggest putting enough into your emergency fund to cover your monthly expenses for at least 3 months.  If you’re conservative you might put as much as a year’s worth of expenses into the account – in either case, maintain that level over time, in tandem with your other savings activities.  This saving can be done automatically, via automatic transfer from your checking account, for example.  By automatically saving, you won’t have to *decide* if you’re going to save – it will happen without you having to make a decision.

There are no significant tax benefits with a savings account, so your saving activities should include some of the other plans that you have available.

Retirement Saving – 401(k)

Next, once you’ve begun your emergency fund, you should begin thinking about longer-term saving.  If you have a 401(k) plan available via your employer (or a comparable plan, such as a 403(b) or a 457 plan), you should consider taking advantage of this.  This is especially true if your employer offers a “matching” program – where the employer will put money into the account as you put money into it.  Often this matching is done either on a dollar-for-dollar basis up to a certain percent, or on a percentage of contributions.

For example, the company might match your contributions dollar-for-dollar up to 3% of your salary – meaning that if you put 1% of your salary into the account, the company will also put 1% into the account on your behalf.  You can put as much as 3% (for this example) into the account and the company will match it.  You will be eligible to put more in the account than what the company matches, but at this stage you might want to limit it to matched amount (more on this in a bit).

The other example that I gave is where the company matches on a percentage basis – this might be expressed as 50% matching up to a 6% employee contribution.  If this was the case, when you put in 1%, the company would match your contribution with a .5% contribution.  If you put in 4%, the company would match it with 2%, and so on, up to a 3% match for your 6% contribution.

The benefit of this kind of account is that, as you contribute money to the account, it’s taken out of your paycheck PRIOR to income tax, which will then reduce your taxable income for the year.  The money in the account (including the employer matches, which you’re also not taxed on in the current year) is then invested, hopefully growing over time.  The growth in the account is likewise untaxed, until you take the money out of the account.  At that time, you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the money that you take out of the account.

The downside to this kind of account is that, generally, the money that you put into the account is more or less locked up until you reach age 59½.  While there are ways to get at the money before that point, the real purpose of this account is to save toward retirement, so any money you put into your 401(k) plan should be considered very long-range savings.

Retirement – Traditional IRA

If you don’t happen to have a 401(k) plan available at your employer, another option to consider for longer-range saving is the Traditional IRA.  The way this works is that you open the IRA account and put up to $5,000 (and when you are over age 50, you can put an additional $1,000) into the account each year. Then, when you file your income tax return for the year, you are eligible to deduct that contribution amount from your income (subject to limits).

After that, the Traditional IRA acts pretty much like the 401(k) plan described before: your savings (hopefully) grows via investments and no tax is owed until you take the money out of the account – usually at age 59½ or later.  At that time you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the money as you withdraw it.  As with the 401(k) you *could* take the money out earlier, but generally there would be penalties for doing so.  As such, the Traditional IRA should be for your longer-term savings.

Retirement and other goals – Roth IRA

FINALLY – we’ve gotten to the account that I brought you here to talk about: the Roth IRA.

A Roth IRA is a little bit like the savings account, in that it doesn’t present any tax savings for you as you put money into it (like the Traditional IRA or the 401(k) plan does).  However, the real tax benefit comes as your account grows over time – when you take the money out after age 59½, there is no ordinary income tax owed on any of the money that you withdraw!

This is a big deal.  You can put in as much as $5,000 per year (same as the Traditional IRA), and as that money grows over time, you won’t have to pay tax on it if you leave it in the account until age 59½.  If you started saving $5,000 per year in a Roth account at age 22 and continued this until you were 42, I’ve illustrated how this could eventually become $33 million over time.

Possibly even a bigger deal is that you can use the Roth IRA as a sort of emergency fund, in addition to a retirement fund.  The money that you’ve contributed to the Roth IRA over time can be withdrawn at any time for any purpose, without tax or penalty.  The investment growth is restricted (like the other retirement accounts mentioned above, to age 59½ or older), but the money you contribute is unrestricted!  This could give you that extra amount that you need for a down-payment on a home, for example.

It’s best to be very judicious in your use of this privilege, since the account is primarily for retirement – but it’s nice to know that you have this option available.

Conclusion

Let’s say that you have started a new job making $30,000 a year.  After taxes are taken out, you have something on the order of $1,800 left each month.  Taking care of rent, insurance, car payment, and all the other things you have to pay (don’t forget the “beaking”!), leaves you with $200 a month for saving.

Let’s say you earmark $50 for your emergency savings.  Then, your employer provides a 3% matching plan for your 401(k), which amounts to $75 per month.  Keeping things simple, let’s say that this leaves you with $75 for other savings activities.  A Roth IRA is an excellent place to put this additional money.

The reason that a Roth IRA is the preferred place to put your excess savings money is because of the tax rate that you’re in at the present.  The savings in tax would be something on the order of $11.25 if you put this additional $75 into a Traditional IRA or a 401(k) plan, and then you’d have your money locked up until retirement. Since you’re already (rightly) taking advantage of the 401(k) plan (and doubling your money via the employer match), using the Roth IRA provides you with an additional way to save with a diversified tax treatment.

All in all, the Roth IRA presents you with a very cost-effective way to save money over time, especially when you’re at the lower end of the tax brackets.

If you’re needing a few more reasons to go with the Roth IRA, try this: if you’re going to grad school, your contributions in your Roth IRA account could be used to help pay for school, but at the same time – retirement accounts in general are not included as sources when calculating financial aid.  Plus, as you make contributions to a Roth IRA (also to other retirement accounts), depending on your income level you may be eligible for the Saver’s Credit.  This is up to a 50% tax credit for your contributions to a retirement plan, including the Roth IRA.

Full Disclosure: That’s my daughter Emma being “beaked” by Fredbird.  She’s a soon-to-be graduate of Western Illinois University, Class of ’12, and proud owner of a Roth IRA.

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