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Roth 401(k) Conversions Explained

Image courtesy of Stuart Miles at FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Image courtesy of Stuart Miles at FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Earlier in 2013, with the passage of ATRA (American Taxpayer Relief Act) there was a provision to loosen the rules for 401(k) plan participants to convert monies in those “regular” 401(k) accounts to the Roth 401(k) component of the account.  Prior to this, there were restrictions on the source of the funds that could be converted, among other restrictions.  These looser restrictions apply to 401(k), 403(b) and 457 plans, as well as the federal government Thrift Savings Plan (TSP).

Recently, the IRS announced that guidance was available to utilize the new conversion options.  As long as the 401(k) plan is amended to allow the conversions, all vested sources of funds can be converted, even if the participant is not otherwise eligible to make a distribution from the account.

This means that employee salary deferrals, employer matching funds, and non-elective payins to the 401(k) account can be converted to a Roth 401(k) account (as long as the plan allows it).  Previously, only employee deferrals were eligible to be converted, and then only if the participant was otherwise eligible to make distributions from the 401(k) account, such as being over age 59½ (if the plan allows) or having left employment.

The converted funds will remain under the purview of the 401(k) plan’s distribution restrictions.  Administrators of 401(k) plans can choose to amend their plan to allow these new conversion options or limit existing conversions as they see fit.

Any conversions will cause the converted funds to be included in your ordinary income for the tax year of the conversion, most likely triggering income tax on the additional ordinary income.  If you don’t have funds outside the 401(k) plan to pay the tax on the conversion, the whole operation becomes less attractive, since you’re having to take a (presumably) unqualified distribution of funds to pay the tax on the conversion.  In the future, qualified distributions from the Roth 401(k) account will be treated as tax-free (as with all Roth-type distributions).

For example, if you have a 401(k) account with $100,000 in it and you wish to convert the entire account to your company’s Roth 401(k) option.  If your marginal tax bracket for this additional income is 25%, this means that you would have a potential tax burden of $25,000 on this conversion.  If you have other sources to pull this $25k from, then you can convert the entire $100,000 over to your Roth 401(k) plan.

However (say it with me: “there’s always a however in life”), if you don’t have an extra $25,000 laying around to pay the taxes, you might need to withdraw the money from your 401(k) plan to pay the tax – which would also trigger the 10% penalty on the withdrawal plus tax which adds up to an additional $8,750.  So now your conversion has cost nearly 34% overall – and the chance of such a conversion paying off due to higher taxes later becomes less likely.

And then there’s the additional rub: most 401(k) plans have significant restrictions on taking an in-plan distribution such as the one mentioned above to pay the tax.  Your plan may allow the Roth 401(k) conversion distribution, but not the regular distribution while you’re participating in the plan, so you’re stuck – and will be stuck with a huge tax bill the following April.

Charitable Donations

Donations

This time of year many people find it in their hearts to give. They’ll give to friends, family, loved ones and charitable organizations that can help maximize the gift such as a church, charity, or foundation.

Last week I had written about the law of reciprocity and giving, and this week I’d like to mention how you can make your giving work in favor when tax season rolls around. As of this writing there are about 11 days left in 2013. Some individuals will be looking to see how much they can give or how much more they can give in order to receive the biggest tax deduction they can for charitable giving.

Of course, gifts to friends and family are not deductible, but there are times when gifts or donations are completely deductible and may be to the tax advantage of the person giving or donating the gift.

According to IRS Publication 526 there are some of the organizations that can receive and therefor qualify the giver for a potential tax deduction:

  • Churches, synagogues, temples, mosques, and other religious organizations
  • Federal, state, and local governments, if your contribution is solely for public purposes (for example, a gift to reduce the public debt or maintain a public park)

Author’s note: I get a kick out of “reduce the public debt”

  • Nonprofit schools and hospitals
  • The Salvation Army, American Red Cross, CARE, Goodwill Industries, United Way, Boy Scouts of America, Girl Scouts of America, Boys and Girls Clubs of America, etc.
  • War veterans’ groups

Source: http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p526.pdf

One great way to give this Holidays season is to make a donation to your favorite charity. Another great way (and something my wife and I practice) is when new gifts come in to either us or our children, we make a list (or stockpile – thank you grandparents!) of items our children no longer play with or my wife and I no longer need such as clothes, games (it was tough giving up Hungry, Hungry Hippos), or household items and donate them to our local Goodwill.

Many of the items donated are tax deductible and here at the BFP World Headquarters Jim and I have some excellent resources to put a true dollar amount on the items donated. Generally, the charitable deduction is going to be limited to 50% of AGI and in some cases 20% or 30% – depending on the type of organization or type of property given.

Should you want to make a donation of money there are many organizations such as your church, Goodwill, The Red Cross and others that will gladly accept the needed funds and happily issue a receipt for your records. The Red Cross has been busy with the typhoon relief in the Philippines and locally (just an hour or so up the road) with the efforts to help the town of Washington, IL recover from the devastating aftermath of an F4 tornado.

Finally, as the saying goes, “I’m not against paying taxes; just not more than my fair share” may also be in the thoughts of taxpayers this coming tax season. Many tax payers are happy to donate money and items to help reduce their tax burden and or give the money to an organization they feel may be more efficient and astute and allocating their hard earned money – rather than paying the money directly to Uncle Sam via a higher tax rate.

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Book Review: How Much Money Do I Need to Retire?

howmuchmoneydoineedtoretireThis book, by Todd Tresidder, cuts through much of the extra “stuff” that you find about retirement planning, to help you do some really useful, back-of-a-napkin retirement planning for yourself.

Tresidder, who has a practice coaching folks with financial planning based on his concepts, developed his planning methods in real practice for himself.  Tresidder “retired” from his regular job at the age of 35 using these tactics, and has been helping other folks to use these methods in planning for retirement ever since.

In this book, Todd goes through the conventional methods of planning for retirement savings, which includes gathering some information that is impossible to calculate:

How much money will you need every year for the rest of your life?
What will be the rate of inflation?
When will you die? Your spouse?
What rate of growth will your investments experience over your lifetime?
What will be the sequence of returns that your investments achieve?
When will you and your spouse retire?

In reviewing these questions, Tresidder points out how difficult it is to develop these numbers for yourself, and then he points out flaws in the conventional methods of determining or estimating these numbers.

Upon reaching a conclusion about the problems with the conventional method of retirement planning, the author then goes on to lay out his methods for determining the amount of money required for you to retire.  His methods are definitely different from the conventional methods, and he gives his reasons for believing that they will provide a useful gauge for you.  I don’t disagree with his findings – I believe he has some very good information to pass along here.

One example of Tresidder’s decision-points is determining an appropriate withdrawal rate from your invested assets.  Tresidder says that the primary factor to use in determining the sustainable withdrawal rate on your investments is the price/earnings ratio in the overall market as of your date of retirement.  The higher the PE ratio, the lower your sustainable withdrawal rate.  I won’t ruin the surprise by explaining it all here, you should read the book if you are interested.

One interesting factor about this book is that Tresidder takes great pains to point out that he believes any planning that is based on past information has flaws.  At the same time, his sustainable withdrawal rate conclusion depends entirely upon a back-test of historical information.  I believe that this anomaly just points out that you must have some historical information to work from – and all methods of planning for the future have shortfalls.

I think this is a great book for anyone who is looking for a do-it-yourself method for planning your retirement.  I would also use other methods to test your results against, since all methods of predicting the future have flaws.  Using a few options to test against one another is a great way to help ensure your success in financial dealings.

2014 Mileage Rates for Tax Deductions

Image courtesy of David Castillo Dominici  at FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Image courtesy of David Castillo Dominici at FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Recently the IRS published the mileage rates for various classes of deductible miles driven for tax year 2014. This amount is used in place of managing, collecting and tabulating the exact costs involved in operating a vehicle throughout the year.

In order to use the standard mileage rates, you just track the miles you drive for each purpose (see below) and then compute the deductible mileage on your tax return when you file it the following year.  Keep a log of the miles driven and the purpose of the trip to substantiate the deduction.  This can be as simple as a paper calendar with your log notes, or more elaborate (check around, I bet there are apps out there for your iphone or other gadgets to do this).

You have a choice to either use the standard rate or the actual expense of operating your vehicle.  In either case, parking and toll costs associated with the applicable mileage can be an additional deductible expense.

Business Mileage

For business purposes, you’ll take the deduction on your Schedule C as a sole proprietor, on Form 1065 for a partnership, or form 1120 as a corporation, along with your other business expenses.  Commuting from your home to your place of work is not allowed as a mileage deduction, but travel from your home or office to a temporary work location (for example, as a contractor) or to a client’s location (e.g., sales) can be deductible mileage.

As an employee, unreimbursed mileage (same restrictions as above) can be deducted using Form 2106 (Unreimbursed Employee Business Expenses), carrying the deductible expense to your Schedule A, where it will be subject to the 2% floor, along with your other miscellaneous expenses.

The rate for business mileage for 2014 is 56 cents per mile.  This is a reduction of ½¢ per mile over the 2013 rate.

Medical/Moving Mileage

Certain mileage expenses for auto use when you are moving to a new home can be deducted, using Form 3903, Moving Expenses.  Travel is limited to one trip per person, however, each member of the household can move separately and at separate times. All of the other requirements for moving expenses must be met (time and distance test, and work test).

In addition, mileage driven for medical purposes can be deducted on your Schedule A along with your other medical expenses, subject to the 10% floor and AGI limits (7.5% floor if you’re age 65 or older).  This includes travel for any medical purpose, as long as it’s a legitimate medical purpose.  An example would be to track your regular visits to the doctor throughout the year and deduct the mileage from your income for tax purposes.

The rate for both types of mileage for 2014 will be 23.5 cents per mile, also down by ½¢ per mile over the 2013 rate.

Charitable Mileage

If you use your personal vehicle for charitable purposes, such as hauling your items to donate to the Goodwill store, you can deduct the mileage along with your other non-cash charitable contributions on Schedule A.

The standard mileage rate for charitable purposes for 2014 is 14 cents per mile, which is unchanged from 2013.

The Law of Reciprocity

Give Way

As your wealth accumulates and continues to grow, there is a law I want you to be mindful of and respect. You don’t have to follow it, but believe me, it will pay you more than any bank, investment, mutual fund, or stock could ever do. I’m talking about the law of reciprocity. Some call it tithing, luck, karma, reaping what you sow, give and take. Whatever you want to call it, it works. And I highly recommend that you do it.

Following the law of reciprocity means giving a little of what you make. It could mean giving to your favorite charity, your church, a friend in need, a homeless shelter, or any other cause or helpful service in your community. The point is to give. And it will come back to you in droves. Don’t ask me how it works, it just does. I promise you that. Consider this for a moment: money is called currency for a reason. Like any current, it was meant to flow, to travel, to move. And the more you give, the more comes back to you.

 

 

 

 

 

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Book Review: The Other Talk

A Guide to Talking with Your Adult Children About the Rest of Your Life

This book, a relatively short read at 176 pp before appendices, is a nice guide for folks facing (or in) retirement and dealing with those end of life issues that we all must face at some point in our lives.  As the subtitle implies, this book guides the reader through the process of having the “other talk” with our children.  The first talk is about the birds and the bees, and the analogy between that talk and the “other talk” is apt.  The subject matter is profoundly difficult and emotional for both parties, but avoiding the talk (either one) can have serious impacts for both parties as well – because avoiding either talk will not keep the “event” from occurring.

The author Tim Prosch relies on many personal experiences as well as a great deal of interviews that he conducted with professionals and folks going through or facing the “talk” on a personal level.  From this information he lays out a process that the reader can use to facilitate the “other talk” with his or her children.

The point is that at some time in your life, statistically speaking, you’re going to be in a position where you need to rely on your children (or other younger family members) to help make decisions regarding your life.  These decisions include living arrangements (nursing, assisted living, at-home, or hospice), medical and healthcare (wishes regarding DNR orders or life-prolonging actions), financial, and living your life on your own terms.

Each of the above areas of decisions can have multiple outcomes – and facilitating a talk with your loved ones who will be helping with the decisions will give them a basis for making the decisions.  Of course you cannot know for sure exactly what situations you’ll face, but you can cover the groundwork for the big items.

By doing so – when the time comes that you’re unable to make decisions on your own – your loved ones will have a basis to work from to make those decisions as you would like them to be made.  Without this basis to work from, your children and other loved ones will be left trying to guess what you’d like to do, and (depending upon your state of mind) you may be fighting against the decisions that you disagree with.

I think this book is an excellent guide for folks facing these issues at some stage in the future – because we’ll all face these issues more likely than not.  If you’re not in or near retirement age presently, perhaps a parent or grandparent would benefit from the book as well.

The above book review is part of a series of reviews that I am doing in an arrangement with McGraw-Hill Professional Publishing, where MH sends me books with the only requirement being that I read the book and write a review – like it or not.  If you find the information in this review useful, let me (and McGraw-Hill) know!

Save 1% More This year – Your Future Self Will Thank You!

 

 

Save

Save (Photo credit: Images_of_Money)

Like so many other things, practicing financial awareness has few payoffs in the early stages.  Think about exercising, eating right, putting in the extra effort at work, or taking a class to improve your skills.  All of these things have a future payoff for the extra effort that you put into it today.  Small steps matter in all of these areas, and before you know it you’ll look back and thank your earlier self for putting in the work to get where you are today.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

How Much is 1% by Sterling Raskie, @SterlingRaskie

Retire Rich With Only 1 Percent More Savings by Steve Doster, @dosterfinancial

One Percent for the One Percent? Think About Your Future Self Instead by Ken Weingarten, @KenWeingarten

The 1% Mindset – Transformation Beyond Money by Neal Frankle, @NealFrankle

Are You Part of The 1%? by Financial Fiduciaries, @FinFiduciaries

What’s the Worst Thing That Could Happen? by Dana Anspach, @moneyover55

Save just one percent more by Doug Nordman, @TheMilitaryGuid

1% a Small Number with Big Implications by Roger Wohlner, @rwohlner

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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How Much is 1%?

Wheat_PennyA penny saved is a penny earned and penny-pincher are two common terms that are used to describe someone that is most likely frugal. I would admit I am one of those individuals that aspires to both phrases – and it’s not out of accident.

I am one of those folks who will pick up a penny (heads or tails showing – no superstitions here) when walking down the street and put it in my pocket. That penny, nickel, or quarter (in rare cases a one-dollar bill or even higher) will usually make its way into my piggy bank or more likely one of my daughters’ porcelain pigs.

I pick up the loose change for one of two reasons:

  1. It’s literally free money. To not pick it up is asinine.
  2. Little amounts add up.

Think of it this way – a penny is 1% of a dollar. A dollar is 1% of a hundred dollars, and a hundred dollars is 1% of ten-thousand dollars. 1% seems small, but 1% added and then compounded grows exponentially.

When it comes to saving an extra 1% – it’s easy. If you make $50,000 a year, 1% of that is $500. Next year, save another 1% (for a total of 2%) and now you’re saving $1,000. And that’s annually. Broken down into monthly, that’s about $42 per month – or $10.50 a week – or $1.50 a day – or 6 pennies an hour.

If we look at the bigger chunks when it comes to savings – the amount can seem daunting, but when we break it down – in this case literally 1%, it becomes much more doable.

If you’re not saving now, commit to saving 1%. If you’re currently saving, save 1% more. It might not seem like much, but remember that avalanches are caused by many, many little snowflakes.

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Social Security Spousal Benefits versus Survivor Benefits

fra la luce

fra la luce (Photo credit: * RICCIO)

I’ve written a lot about Social Security Spousal Benefits and Survivor Benefits on these pages, but oftentimes there is confusion about how they are applied.  There are things about them that are common, but for the most part there are some real differences that you need to understand as you make decisions about applying for one or the other of these benefits.

For one thing – Survivor Benefits and Spousal Benefits are benefits that you may be entitled to that are based on someone else’s record: your spouse (or ex-spouse) to be exact.  No matter what your own Social Security benefit might be, you have access to the Spousal Benefit and Survivor Benefit, if, of course, you have or had a spouse with a Social Security retirement benefit available on his or her record.

In addition, it is important to note that Spousal Benefits and Survivor Benefits are mutually exclusive.  You can’t receive both at the same time – and if you apply for both at the same time, you’ll end up with the higher of the two.  Technically you wouldn’t apply for both at the same time, you’d just find out which one provides the best benefit for you.  This doesn’t mean that you have to take the higher benefit, because it’s possible that you could receive a better benefit later if you delay filing for one or the other until later.  If you are at least at Full Retirement Age (FRA, age 66 if born in 1954 or before, increasing to age 67 if born in 1960 or later), more than likely the Survivor Benefit is the greater of the two, and neither benefit will increase after you’ve reached FRA, so you might as well receive that benefit at this point.

Both the Spousal and Survivor benefit can be reduced by WEP.  They both can also be reduced or eliminated by the GPO.

Differences

One of the first differences between Spousal and Survivor benefits is the relation to your own retirement benefit.  If you have your own retirement benefit and you haven’t filed for it, filing for the Spousal Benefit before FRA will force a filing for your own retirement benefit, and it could wipe out the Spousal Benefit for you.  If you’re at or older than FRA, you can file solely for the Spousal Benefit and have no impact on your own retirement benefit.

At the same time, if you’re eligible for a Survivor Benefit, you can file for it at any time and have no impact on your future retirement benefit (or Spousal Benefit, for that matter).

So – for example, Phil’s wife Joan died this year.  Joan was 65 years old, and had not started receiving Social Security benefits.  Phil has a Social Security retirement benefit available to him when he decides to file for it.  Phil is 65 years old, and his available benefits look like this:

His own retirement benefit will be $2,000 when he reaches FRA next year.

His Spousal Benefit based on Joan’s record could be $900 at FRA, since Joan was due a benefit of $1,800 at FRA had she reached that age.

Phil’s Survivor Benefit based on Joan’s record could be $1,800 at FRA.

If Phil filed for the Survivor Benefit now, at age 65, he could receive a monthly benefit that is reduced 4.7% from Joan’s FRA benefit, or $1,715.40.  This way he could delay receiving his own benefit until at least FRA – possibly even as late as age 70.  He could also wait until next year (his FRA) and file for the full Survivor Benefit of $1,800, again delaying his own benefit until later.

Any other set of choices would result in a lower benefit for Phil.  It’s possible that he could file for his own benefit right now, at age 65.  This would result in a lowered retirement benefit for him for the rest of his life – and since the Survivor Benefit is less than his own benefit, it wouldn’t make sense to ever file for the Survivor Benefit.  Also available is the option for Phil to not file for any benefits at all this year, and then at FRA he could file a restricted application for the Spousal Benefit alone.  This would result in a $900 monthly benefit – half of Joan’s age 66 benefit.  But since the Survivor benefit will not increase beyond Phil’s age 66, he might as well file for the Survivor Benefit at that point, since it’s double the Spousal Benefit.  As mentioned above, he can still file for his own benefit later, even though he’s collected the Survivor Benefit.

If we reverse the circumstances and Joan is the survivor, here are the benefits available to her:

Her own benefit at FRA is $1,800.

The Spousal Benefit based on Phil’s record could be $1,000 at Joan’s age 66.

The Survivor Benefit based on Phil’s record would be $2,000 at Joan’s age 66.

So Joan has the following options available to her right now, at age 65: she could file for her own benefit now and collect a reduced benefit of approximately $1,680 a month.  She could then file for the Survivor Benefit at FRA, and receive a benefit of $2,000 a month.

On the other hand, Joan could file for the Survivor Benefit now, at age 65 and receive a reduced monthly benefit of $1,906.  She could then wait until she reaches age 70 and file for her own benefit, which would have grown to $2,376 due to the Delay Credits.

The third option for Joan is to do nothing at this point.  She could then file for the Survivor Benefit at FRA, receiving a monthly benefit of $2,000, and then wait to file her own benefit later as detailed above.  If she’s waited to FRA to file, any other option would result in a lower benefit for her – if she filed for her own benefit at FRA, she’d only receive $1,800.  She might as well file for the Survivor Benefit at this point and receive $2,000.  This would then leave open the option to file for her own benefit at the delayed, increased amount as mentioned above.

In both cases, the Spousal Benefit doesn’t come into play, since the available Spousal Benefit for both Phil and Joan is less than the other available benefits.

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See How 1% More Can Benefit You

saving and spending

saving and spending (Photo credit: 401(K) 2013)

We have a project going to encourage people to increase personal savings by at least 1% more this month.  This means that you would add 1% more of your income to your savings rate – so if you earn $75,000 per year in your household and you currently save around $2,250 per year, that’s 3%.  Adding 1% more would bring that total to $3,000 for the year, which works out to an increase of only $62.50 per month.  Give it a shot!

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

The 1% Mindset – Transformation Beyond Money by Neal Frankle, @NealFrankle

Are You Part of The 1%? by Financial Fiduciaries, @FinFiduciaries

What’s the Worst Thing That Could Happen? by Dana Anspach, @moneyover55

Save just one percent more by Doug Nordman, @TheMilitaryGuid

1% a Small Number with Big Implications by Roger Wohlner, @rwohlner

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Book Review: How to Give Financial Advice to Couples

How to Give Financial Advice to CouplesSubtitle: Essential Skills for Balancing High-Net-Worth Clients’ Needs

This book, by Kathleen Burns Kingsbury, is a very good book for all financial advisors to read – even if your clientele isn’t “high-net-worth” clients.  I’ve had my share of client-couples who had difficulty in reconciling financial concerns with one another, and (as you probably know) the number of digits on the couple’s bottom line net worth has nothing to do with it.

Author Kingsbury, a wealth psychology expert, has a great deal of experience and knowledge on the subject to share.  She covers the issues that couples face when dealing with monetary subjects, which can range from having opposite but complementary skills and mindsets regarding money to having basic problems in dealing with conflict with one another.  Every couple has areas where they’re not completely in concert with one another – it would be really unusual if everything about a couple fit like a hand in a glove.

These conflicts, no matter how large or small, can cause difficulties in many areas, and financial dealings are no exception.  In fact, it is in financial dealings that these conflicting viewpoints are often manifested (among other places), since dealing with financial issues is an emotional thing for most folks. Being such an emotional area of our lives, when big decisions need to be made it can be very difficult to come together on a compromise.  For many folks, the worldview about money that they have learned over time from family and friends isn’t very helpful – again, because of the emotional nature of money.  Oftentimes in families monetary issues are dealt with in secret and are the source of conflict. The  messages that are passed on to children are not generally useful when the child becomes an adult and needs to deal with similar issues.

This is where the advisor comes in – because, during the course of working out financial plans there are many decisions to be made, client-couples often find it difficult to come to a decision. And if they do come to a decision, it’s often one partner exerting his or her will over the other – and the other partner may exercise his or her learned reaction to the situation.  This could mean acquiescence, stonewalling, or even actively sabotaging the process.  To be successful, the advisor must recognize when a conflict exists and help the couple to work through it.

Ms. Kingsbury then uses the latter half of the book to show how an advisor can help the couple in a situations like this.  She draws on her own experiences with many, many couples through the years, as well as on her own personal experiences in her life.  The examples are excellent illustrations to help the advisor/reader to understand how to help the couple work out their issues.

I recommend this book for any financial advisor – regardless of the nature of your practice, you’re dealing with situations of conflict among couples, it can’t be avoided.  How you deal with these situations depends a lot on your own background – if you don’t have a lot of experience in successfully dealing with couple conflict successfully, this book can be a great help.  With Kathleen Burns Kingsbury’s guidance, you have a much better chance to help couples to deal with the issues and wind up with better results on the long run.  Otherwise, if the advisor doesn’t deal with the conflict, all the effort involved in putting plans together is wasted.

The above book review is part of a series of reviews that I am doing in an arrangement with McGraw-Hill Professional Publishing, where MH sends me books with the only requirement being that I read the book and write a review – like it or not.  If you find the information in this review useful, let me (and McGraw-Hill) know!

You won’t regret it, I promise!

regrets

regrets (Photo credit: mayeesherr. (away))

I often have opportunity to speak to young folks who are just starting out with their retirement accounts – this usually happens when we’re looking at ways to reduce taxes, primarily, so we start looking at IRAs and diverting income via 401(k) accounts.  One of the things I point out is that this is an activity that you aren’t likely to look back on in 20 years and say “Gee, I sure wish I hadn’t saved all that money!”  We may have many things we look back on in our lives and wish we hadn’t done them, but I think you’ll agree that saving is rarely in that category.

So take the encouragement of my fellow blogging brethren and sistren (you betcha sistren’s a word, regardless of WP’s spell-checker!) and put aside at least 1% more of your income into your savings, starting right now.  You won’t regret it, I promise.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

Are You Part of The 1%? by Financial Fiduciaries

What’s the Worst Thing That Could Happen? by Dana Anspach, @moneyover55

Save just one percent more by Doug Nordman, @TheMilitaryGuid

1% a Small Number with Big Implications by Roger Wohlner, @rwohlner

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Social Security Bend Points for 2014

"The Bend"

“The Bend” (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When the Social Security Administration announced the Cost of Living Adjustment (COLA) for 2014, this also allowed for calculation of the bend points for 2014.

Bend points are the portions of your average income (Average Indexed Monthly Earnings – AIME) in specific dollar amounts that are indexed each year, based upon an obscure table called the Average Wage Index (AWI) Series.  They’re called bend points because they represent points on a graph of your AIME graphed by inclusion in calculating the PIA.

If you’re interested in how Bend Points are used, you can see the article on Primary Insurance Amount, or PIA.  Here, however, we’ll go over how Bend Points are calculated each year.  To understand this calculation, you need to go back to 1979, the year of the Three Mile Island disaster, the introduction of the compact disc and the Iranian hostage crisis.  According to the AWI Series, in 1979 the Social Security Administration placed the AWI figure for 1977 at $9,779.44 – AWI figures are always two years in arrears, so for example, the AWI figure used to determine the 2014 bend points is from 2012.

With the AWI figure for 1977, it was determined that the first bend point for 1979 would be set at $180, and the second bend point at $1,085.  Now that we know these two numbers, we can jump back to 2012’s AWI Series figure, which is $44,321.67.  It all becomes a matter of a formula now:

Current year’s AWI Series divided by 1977’s AWI figure, times the bend points for 1979 equals your current year bend points

So here is the math for 2014’s bend points:

$44,321.67 / $9,779.44 = 4.5321

4.5321 * $180 = $815.78, which is rounded up to $816 – this is the first bend point

4.5321 * $1,085 = $4,917.32, rounded down to $4,917 – this is the second bend point

These bend points are then used to calculate your Primary Insurance Amount, or PIA.  With your Average Indexed Monthly Earnings (AIME) figure, we take the first $816 and multiply by 90%.  The amount between $816 and $4,917 is then multiplied by 32%.  Any amount above $4,917 is multiplied by 15%.  These figures are then added together, and the result is your PIA.

Now that we have the bend points, we also know what the maximum reduction for Windfall Elimination Provision (WEP) will be for 2014: it’s equal to 50% of the first bend point.  So, if you’re subject to WEP reduction of your benefits, the maximum amount that your benefit can be reduced for 2014 is $408 – half of the first bend point.

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Add 1% More to Your Savings

saving and retirement

saving and retirement (Photo credit: 401(K) 2013)

Savings rates in America are really not what they should be.  Studies have shown that, in order to achieve the goal of replacing 80% of your average pre-retirement income you should be saving at a rate around 17.5%.  This doesn’t necessarily mean that 17.5% is the right number for everyone, because pensions and Social Security can help out in replacing some of your income in retirement.  But the average savings rate for all Americans is something just south of 5% – so we can definitely do a better job.  So make the effort to apply at least 1% more to your savings rate this November.  It certainly can’t hurt!

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

1% a Small Number with Big Implications by Roger Wohlner, @rwohlner

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Bloggers Are Encouraging Adding 1% More to Your Savings Rate

English: Chart of United States Personal Savin...

Chart of United States Personal Savings Rate from 1960-2010. Data source: FRED, Federal Reserve Economic Data, Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis: Personal Saving Rate [PSAVERT] ; U.S. Department of Labor: Bureau of Labor Statistics; accessed August 14, 2010. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In November we financially-oriented bloggers have banded together to encourage folks to increase their retirement savings rate by at least 1% more than the current rate.  It’s a small step, but it will pay off for you in the long run.  Given the poor level of savings rate (less than 5%) these days, even this small step will be a big boost for many people’s savings.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Types of Annuities

 

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Last week I explained a bit about annuities and am following up this week on the different types of annuities and way to contribute.

When a person is contributing to an annuity they are building or increasing the number of accumulation units they buy. As the money in the account builds so does the number of accumulation units. During the payout phase the accumulation units convert into annuity units. The number of annuity units remains the same for the remainder of the annuitant’s lifetime.

When it comes to annuities there are a few different kinds that are available. Potential buyers can choose from variable annuities and fixed annuities. Variable annuities allow the policy holder to contribute premiums and then have those premiums allocated to different sub-accounts that invest in various stock and bond mutual funds. The value of the annuity goes up and down with the general fluctuations of the market and will vary depending on the type of funds the annuity is invested in (stock mutual funds will generally gyrate more than their bond counterparts).

When variable annuities start their payout the annuitant is not guaranteed a constant amount to be paid out. The value of the payout may change depending on the value of the annuity units that wax and wane according to market conditions.

Fixed annuities are just that. They pay a fixed interest rate, often guaranteed and are generally more conservative. The upside is that they will not fluctuate as much as a variable annuity; however, they may not keep pace with inflation – depending on the interest rate guaranteed in the contract.

Variable annuities are generally better suited for those looking to outpace inflation over time and are willing to accept more investment risk in order to achieve higher growth.

Fixed annuities are generally better suited for those who are looking for a fixed, guaranteed rate and are ok with slow, steady growth.

Next week, we’ll look at the expenses in annuities (M&E charges, surrender charges, and other expenses) and look at some pros and cons of where they may and may not make sense for a client.

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Social Security Figures Increase for 2014

English: Cardpunch operations at U.S. Social S...

This is a picture of a few of the hundreds of cardpunch operators SSA employed throughout the late 1930s and into the 1950s to maintain Social Security records in the days before the advent of computers.(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Recently the Social Security Administration released the updated figures for 2014, including the wage base, earnings limits, and the increase to benefits.

For 2014, the wage base for Social Security will rise to $117,000.  This is the maximum amount of W2 wages that are subject to the 6.2% employer- and employee-paid Social Security tax.  This amount represents an increase of $3,300 over the wage base of $113,700 in 2013.

In addition to that increase, benefits to eligible recipients of Social Security retirement will increase by 1.5% in 2014.  This is slightly less than the 1.7% increase to benefits in 2013.  This brings the average monthly benefit for all retired workers up by $19, to$1,294 in 2014.  For the average couple who are both receiving Social Security benefits, the COLA increase is $31 per month, for an average benefit of $2,111 in 2014.

Likewise, there was an increase announced to the earnings limits for Social Security benefits.  When receiving Social Security benefits at during ages 62 through 65, you are allowed to earn up to $15,480 in 2014 before having to forfeit a portion of those Social Security benefits. This is an increase of $360 over the limit of $15,120 for 2013.  For every $2 over the earnings limit, the beneficiary forfeits $1 of Social Security benefits.

In the year that the beneficiary will reach age 66 (but before his or her 66th birthday) the earnings limit for 2014 is increased to $41,400 (up from $40,080 in 2013).  For every $3 earned above that limit, $1 is withheld from your benefits until you reach age 66.  After age 66 there is no earnings limit.

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