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Advice I Would Give My Younger Self

 

yck78e9cELast week marked the 30th anniversary of the date Marty McFly traveled 30 years into the future, from 1985 to 2015. A lot has happened in the past 30 years. Smartphones are part of our regular vocabulary, millions of individuals do their shopping online, and markets are still unpredictable.

Naturally, I’ve changed over the last 30 years. And if I had a DeLorean that could take me back in time I’d try to impart some wisdom on my younger self. Unfortunately, the closest thing I have to a DeLorean is a silver mini-van (with sliding rather than gull wing doors) lacking a flux capacitor. My hope is that younger readers can benefit from what I am about to tell my younger self.

  1. From the moment you start earning money, save 10% of what you make. Whether it’s mowing lawns or stocking shelves you have the gift of time to your advantage; and you never get it back.
  1. Don’t be afraid to live frugally. It’s not how you spend that will impress people, it’s your character.
  1. When you go on dates, it’s OK to pick up the tab; but it’s also OK if you go Dutch. It’s also OK to if you don’t spend any money on a date. Sometimes a simple stroll through a park along a river will do more for a relationship than a movie.
  1. Give to others who need it, and do it without fanfare. Random acts of kindness and generosity compound more powerfully that you could ever imagine.
  1. One of the smartest financial decisions you made was waiting to go to college. You didn’t know it at the time, but you weren’t ready. A few years of maturity will prepare you to be a better student, and you’ll appreciate college and your instructors more.
  1. Drive your 1985 Pontiac Sunbird until it completely dies. You’ll save so much by not having a car payment. See point number 2.
  1. Hold off on applying for a credit card. There’s plenty of time and you don’t need one now.
  1. I know it hurts to hear this but your parents were right. You may know everything now, but as you age you’ll get dumber. That’s a good thing.
  1. Money doesn’t buy happiness. You need some to live comfortably, but after a certain point, your happiness with having more money increases at a decreasing rate. If this is confusing, sit in the front of the class when you take Economics 101 in college.
  1. You will have regrets. Don’t dwell on them. Learn from them.
  1. You will learn a lot by failing. Get ready for some whoppers.
  1. Try your best to think before you speak or act. This will benefit you more than you know.
  1. Success is not defined by what you have or what you do. It’s defined by who you are. Count your blessings. Three of them eat dinner with you every night. Be grateful for everything you have.
  1. When you move to Springfield, Illinois, look up a guy by the name of Jim Blankenship. Trust me on this one…

Get some now, get more later

moreNote: with the passage of the Bipartisan Budget Bill of 2015 into law, File & Suspend and Restricted Application have been effectively eliminated for anyone born in 1954 or later. If born before 1954 there are some options still available, but these are limited as well. Please see the article The Death of File & Suspend and Restricted Application for more details.

When you have reached Full Retirement Age (FRA – age 66 if you were born between 1946 and 1954), you have the option to file for Spousal Benefits separately from your own benefit. This is known as a restricted application – and is often referred to as “get some now, get more later ”. Of course, you must either be married to another Social Security recipient who has filed for benefits, or you have divorced after 10 years of marriage to someone who is at least 62 years of age. If divorced, either your ex must have filed for benefits or at least two years has passed since your divorce.

In order to get your Spousal Benefit now and then get more benefits later, you will need to file a restricted application for spousal benefits when you have reached Full Retirement Age. Typically you should file for this benefit a few months in advance (SSA says up to 3 months in advance) and instruct them to begin your Spousal Benefit when you reach FRA.

An important factor in this process is that you have not filed for any benefits previous to the restricted application. That means you could not have filed for your own benefit earlier. In addition, if you were receiving SSDI (Social Security Disability Income) up to Full Retirement Age, this option is also not available to you.

Do Not File and Suspend

You also would not file and suspend. For some reason, many folks get this confused, thinking that they need to file and suspend and then file a restricted application. If you file and suspend, that takes away your option to file a restricted application – since one of the requirements for a restricted application is that you have not filed for benefits previously. Even though you would not be receiving benefits (having suspended) the action of file and suspend is actually filing for your own benefits. Therefore, if you file and suspend, you are not allowed to file a restricted application for spousal benefits.

Probably the reason for the confusion is that many times if both spouses of a married couple are wishing to delay benefits to age 70, in order for one member of the couple to file a restricted application for spousal benefits, the OTHER member of the couple may need to file and suspend.

In the case of a divorced couple, there is no need for file and suspend at all if the divorce was finalized at least two years ago. This is known as independent entitlement to spousal benefits, and so no one would need to file and suspend to allow for a restricted application for either member of the former couple.

Lissette wants to delay her own benefit as long as possible. She is reaching Full Retirement Age soon, and has been divorced for more than two years after her marriage. In order to take advantage of the “get some now, get more later ” option, when Lissette reaches FRA, she will file a restricted application for spousal benefits. As is often the case with a divorced individual, Lissette visits her local SSA office and brings along the documentation of her marriage, divorce, and her ex-husband’s Social Security number. With this information, Lissette can file a restricted application for Spousal Benefits.

Later, when Lissette reaches age 70, she can file for her own benefits, which will have maximized due to the delay credits adding 32% to her PIA.

Your Spouse Will File and Suspend

On the other hand, Carol, age 65 is looking forward to using the “get some now, get more later ” option when she reaches age 66, her Full Retirement Age. Ronald, her husband, is reaching his FRA of age 66 3 months after Carol. Ronald also wants to delay his benefit to maximize it at age 70.

When Carol reaches age 66, since Ronald has not yet filed for any benefits, she is not yet eligible for the restricted application. If she filed for benefits now, that would take away her option to file a restricted application when Ronald has filed for his benefits. She also would NOT file and suspend – as explained earlier, this would eliminate her option to file a restricted application.

So three months after Carol’s 66th birthday, when Ronald reaches FRA, Ronald files and suspends his benefit – he doesn’t want to receive the benefit now, he wants to delay as long as possible. He only files and suspends now in order to allow Carol to file a restricted application. Since Ronald has filed (file & suspend) Carol is now allowed to file a restricted application for spousal benefits.

It could have gone the other way – Carol could have filed and suspended at her FRA and then 3 months later Ronald could have filed a restricted application for Spousal Benefits. But this wouldn’t have worked out as well since Ronald’s PIA is $2,200 and Carol’s is $1,500. The Spousal Benefit for Carol (based on Ronald’s record) is $1,100; if they did it the other way the Spousal Benefit for Ronald (based on Carol’s record) would only have been $750.

[graphiq id=”3GQQ2SZjuE5″ title=”Average Social Security Payout per Month” width=”600″ height=”520″ url=”https://w.graphiq.com/w/3GQQ2SZjuE5″ link=”http://time-series.findthedata.com/l/56643/Average-Social-Security-Payout-per-Month” link_text=”Average Social Security Payout per Month | FindTheData”]

SOSEPP – Fixed Annuitization method

sosepp

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When calculating your Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SOSEPP), provided for under §72(t)(2)(A)(iv) of the Internal Revenue Code, one of your choices is the Fixed Annuitization method.

Calculating your annual payment under this method requires you to have the balance of your IRA or 401(k) account and an annuity factor, which is found in Appendix B of Rev. Ruling 2002-62 using the age you have reached (or will reach) for that calendar year. You will then specify a rate of interest of your choice that is not more than 120% of the federal mid-term rate published by regularly the IRS in an Internal Revenue Bulletin (IRB).

Once you’ve calculated your annual payment under the Fixed Annuitization method, your future payments will be exactly the same until the SOSEPP is no longer in effect. There is a one-time opportunity to change to the Required Minimum Distribution method.

For more details on the Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SOSEPP) see Early Withdrawal of an IRA or 401(k) – SOSEPP.

SOSEPP – Fixed Amortization Method

amortized berries

Photo credit: malomar

When calculating your Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SOSEPP), provided for under §72(t)(2)(A)(iv) of the Internal Revenue Code, one of your choices is the Fixed Amortization method.

Calculating your annual payment under this method requires you to have the balance of your IRA account. With this balance you then create an amortization schedule over a specified number of years equal to your life expectancy factor from either the Single Life Expectancy table or the Joint Life and Last Survivor Expectancy table, using the age(s) you have reached (or will reach) for that calendar year. The amortization table must use a rate of interest of your choice, but the chosen rate cannot be more than 120% of the federal mid-term rate published by regularly the IRS in an Internal Revenue Bulletin (IRB).

Which table you use is based upon your circumstances. If you are single, or married and your spouse is less than 10 years younger than you, you will use the Single Life Expectancy table. If you are married and your spouse is 10 years or more younger, you may choose to use the Joint Life and Last Survivor Expectancy table.

Once you’ve calculated your annual payment under the Fixed Amortization method, your future payments will be exactly the same until the SOSEPP is no longer in effect. There is a one-time opportunity to change to the Required Minimum Distribution method.

For more details on the Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SOSEPP) see Early Withdrawal of an IRA or 401(k) – SOSEPP.

SOSEPP – RMD Method

minimum

Photo credit: jb

The Required Minimum Distribution method for calculating your Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (under §72(t)(2)(A)(iv)) calculates the specific amount that you must withdraw from your IRA, 401k, or other retirement plan each year, based upon your account balance at the end of the previous year. The balance is then divided by the life expectancy factor from either the Single Life Expectancy table or the Joint Life and Last Survivor Expectancy table, using the age(s) you have reached (or will reach) by the end of the current calendar year. This annual amount will be different each year, since the balance at the end of the previous year will be different, and your age factor will be different as well.

Which table you use is based upon your circumstances. If you are single, or married and your spouse is less than 10 years younger than you, you will use the Single Life Expectancy table. If you are married and your spouse is 10 years or more younger, you may choose to use the Joint Life and Last Survivor Expectancy table.

For more details on the Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SOSEPP) see Early Withdrawal of an IRA or 401(k) – SOSEPP.

Early Withdrawal of an IRA or 401(k) – SOSEPP

Photo credit: malomar

This particular section of the Internal Revenue Code – specifically §72(t)(2)(A)(iv) – is the most famous of the 72(t) provisions. This is mostly due to the fact that it seems to be the ultimate answer to the age-old question “How can I take money out of my IRA or 401(k) without penalty?”

While it’s true that this particular code section provides a method for getting at your retirement funds without penalty (and without special circumstances like first-time home purchase or medical issues), this code section is very complicated. With this complication comes a huge potential for costly mistakes – and the IRS does NOT forgive and forget!

A Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments, or SOSEPP is just what it sounds like. You withdraw a specified amount from your IRA or 401(k) every year. The specified amount is not always the same (hence “substantially” equal) but the method for determining the amount is the same year after year. You start your SOSEPP at some age before 59 ½ years of age (or the age that you would otherwise qualify for penalty-free withdrawals), and you must continue those payments for the greater of 5 years or until you reach age 59 ½.

In order to set up your Series of Substantially Equal Periodic Payments (SOSEPP), you must use one of the three methods prescribed by the IRS: Required Minimum Distribution method, Fixed Amortization method, and Fixed Annuitization method (follow the links for more information on each method).

Once chosen, your method can not be changed under most circumstances. There is one situation that provides for a one-time change to your payments, but otherwise the SOSEPP can’t be changed without “busting” the activity. This means that every year the SOSEPP is in effect, you must take exactly the amount in your schedule from your retirement account, no more and no less. Making a change to your withdrawal schedule will result in your owing the 10% penalty retroactively on all payments received to that point, plus interest (this is where the IRS does not forgive).

In addition, once you’ve begun your SOSEPP, you must continue that payment schedule until the later of five years or you reach age 59 ½. Again, this is an area where the IRS doesn’t forgive or give any leeway: if you take additional distributions one day before your five years or 59 ½th birthday, the action will “bust” the SOSEPP, and you’ll be liable for 10% penalty on all distributions from your IRA plus penalties. Obviously this sort of an arrangement should not be taken lightly, and you must keep excellent, flawless records on your withdrawals.

Other facts about SOSEPP:

  • You can split your IRA into more than one account, and apply your SOSEPP against only one account, thereby reducing the balance against which your payout method is calculated. This splitting typically is not available for a 401(k) plan, although you could rollover a portion of the 401(k) to an IRA and use a SOSEPP against either account, as long as the plan administrator allows.
  • You can have more than one SOSEPP going at a time, using separate IRA or 401(k) accounts and different payout methods for each.
  • Your periodic payment will likely change under the minimum distribution method, as it recalculates annually based on the account balance at the end of the prior year.

The Hot Stove Analogy

hand-on-oven-burnerWe’ve all been there. Cooking dinner around the stove and mistakenly touch the burner or element with our finger. Instantaneously and instinctively our hand immediately withdraws from the heat and we quickly look to see if we need to run it under cold water or worse, grab the bandages.

Individuals can have a similar instinctive reaction when they are burned by the market. When the market is highly volatile they’re gut reaction may be to pull their hand away quickly and easing the pain by selling and getting out.

It would seem almost malapropos to keep a hand on the hot stove knowing that doing so will result in further pain and injury. And it would be unthinkable to place the other hand on the stove so both are feeling the heat.

Naturally, no one likes to lose money. When markets go down it is perfectly understandable for individuals to not want to subject themselves to further loss and the pain of seeing account values decline. However, for many individuals, especially those with long time horizons, it can be perfectly sane to keep their hand on the stove (invested in the market). Perhaps a bold few will have the audacity to put both hands on the stove (invest more money when markets are down).

Some individuals may want to consider a lukewarm approach by having multiple burners going, yet set to different settings (diversification). This way, when one burner is really hot (say, stocks are plummeting) they can place their hands on a different burner (a different, less-correlated asset such as bonds or REITs) and still stay close to the stove, without getting burned.

The 52% Medicare Premium Increase by the Numbers

increaseBy now if you’re a Medicare recipient I’m sure you’ve heard all about the potential 52% Medicare Premium increase coming in 2016 for some recipients. This is due to a virtually-unknown (until recently) part of the law that allows no increase to Medicare premiums if there is no COLA adjustment to Social Security benefits being currently received. This happened in 2010 and 2011 when there was no COLA added for Social Security recipients – it just wasn’t the headline grabbing 52% number.

As a result of this lack of increase for 70% of all Medicare Part B recipients, all other Medicare Part B premium payers must pick up the slack. The increase to premium is projected to be a maximum of 52% – from $104.90 to $159.40.

Who is impacted?

Primarily only those people who are over age 65, receiving Part B Medicare coverage and who are not currently receiving Social Security benefits will be impacted. Anyone who is currently receiving Social Security and having the Part B premium deducted from their check will have the same premium for 2016 as they have in 2015, since there is no COLA projected. (Note: If you’re receiving Social Security and NOT having the Part B premium deducted from your check, you’re also going to be impacted – you should change this right away to avoid the unnecessary increase!)

Many people have delayed receipt of Social Security benefits past age 65 in order to maximize the Social Security benefits that they’ll eventually receive. Delaying from age 65 to age 66 will result in an increase of benefits by 7.14% for most recipients. Delaying beyond age 66 will result in an increase to benefits of 8% for each year of delay.

Dave is reaching age 65 right now, but has always intended to delay his Social Security benefit to at least age 66. The decision of whether to start taking benefits now (to avoid the 52% premium increase!) versus delaying becomes a matter of running the numbers.

This $54.50 increase is made up completely if Dave’s benefit would have been $763.30 per month or more at age 65. For any higher benefit, the result is that much better.

For another example, Greta, who is reaching age 70 late next year and has not started receiving Social Security would only consider filing for benefits now if her age 66 benefit (the benefit against which the delay increases are calculated) would have been less than $681.25. If Greta’s age 66 benefit was, for example, $700 per month, delaying for another year to her age 70 would result in an additional increase of $56 per month – more than the Medicare increase.

Lastly, if you’re nearing (within a few months) of a milestone that you intended to file for benefits –such as if you intended to file in January – you might consider filing early now if it’s that important to you. In the long run the delay of a few months would not have a large impact (three months would be an increase of 2%) and if it helps you to sleep at night then all the better. I’d still counsel that the 2% extra is worth enduring the increase to the Medicare Premium though – especially if you’ve delayed this long in order to maximize benefits for yourself and perhaps for a younger spouse’s future survivor benefits.

Effect Is Temporary

The last thing to keep in mind with all of this is that the effect of this Medicare Part B premium increase are temporary. After COLAs are again added to Social Security benefits, the Medicare premiums will even out again. That’s how it happened after the non-increases of 2010 and 2011: in 2010 for some folks the Medicare premium increased from $96.40 to $110.50, and in 2011 for some folks it increased again to $115.40 (19.71% in all!). In 2012, when COLAs were once again included for Social Security benefits, everyone’s Medicare Part B premium fell back to $99.90 a month (except for the folks in higher tax brackets, which is an entirely separate set of numbers to consider).

Now is the time to act though – because to avoid the increase your benefit must have started in November or earlier. Start in December and you’ll get the premium increase anyway.

Separation From Service On or After Age 55

You can listen to this article by using the podcast player below if you’re on the blog; if you’re reading this via RSS, there should be a “Play Now” link just below the title to access the audio. If you’re receiving this article via email, there should be a “Download Now” link within the text of the message to retrieve the audio file.

after 55

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Did you realize that there is a provision within the Internal Revenue Code that allows you to start taking distributions from your 401(k) plan before you reach age 59½?  This little-known section of the code, §72(t)(2)(A)(v), can be a real dandy if you happen to fit the requirements. The primary requirement is that you separate from service with the employer at or after age 55.

Note: although we will refer to the 401(k) throughout this article, this code provision applies to all ERISA-qualified, employer-established defined contribution plans, which includes 401(k), 403(b), 501(a), and others.

Here’s how it works:  if you are working for a company and are participating in the company’s 401(k) plan, should you leave employment with that company at any time during or after the year in which you reach age 55, there will be no penalty for taking distributions from the plan.  Normally, any distribution (other than specifically-qualified distributions) prior to age 59½ will result in the 10% penalty being applied, in addition to regular income tax.

It is important to note that these distributions only qualify when received from a company-established defined contribution plan – NOT an IRA account.  Just to be clear:

THIS PROVISION DOES NOT APPLY TO IRA ACCOUNTS.

In order to maintain this penalty-free distribution, the funds must not be rolled over into an IRA.  This is a critical distinction that you need to understand – a mistake would take away this option completely.  Be certain that you completely understand how this works before starting a distribution, as it could be costly to make a mistake.

Lastly, the Pension Protection Act of 2006 made one additional change to the code:  The age limit is reduced to 50 for retiring police, firefighters, and medics. Retirees from those specific jobs can take a penalty-free distribution from their accounts when they leave employment at or after age 50.

As with all defined contribution plans, normal income taxes will still apply.

Read about the potential Downside to the Age 55 Rule for 401k Plans.

Book Review – Choose Your Retirement

choose your retirementThe latest book by Emily Guy Birken – Choose Your Retirement – is unlike any other book I’ve read on the subject. Birken takes the time to walk the reader through all of the decision-points that likely will confront you. She spends time acknowledging all of the factors that often face future retirees, including all of the emotional factors that plague us.

Author Birken, who you may recognize from her many writing gigs with well-known personal finance outlets including Wisebread, PT Money, Money Crashers and Yahoo! Finance, has really done well with this book, in my opinion. The book provides practical step-by-step guidance and counsel for navigating the internal mental scripts that different personality types face when saving – Money Avoidance, Money Worship, Money Status, and Money Vigilance. Most everyone fits into one of these categories – and each category has it’s own pitfalls and benefits. This book takes you through each script type to help you understand the barriers that you are likely facing as you plan for and approach retirement.

In Part II Emily takes time to work through debunking the common myths that pervade the retirement planning landscape.  Among the topics here are myths about how to estimate how much money you’ll need in retirement, as well as myths about Social Security, Medicare and healthcare.

The last section of the book is where the rubber meets the road. The author covers in ten chapters some of the very important topics that most retirement books leave behind, including things like retiring abroad or retiring in place (where you live now), changing careers in retirement (because retirement doesn’t mean stop!), and leaving a legacy.

The last section of the book is in my opinion what really sets this book apart from the field. These categories are covered in-depth, with practical advice for things that you don’t typically see in a retirement book. Ms. Birken does a great job with this part of the book – like, for example, the concept of undertaking more education in retirement. Did you know you can use a 529 plan to fund your own education on a tax-advantaged basis?

All in all, I think Emily, who I am privileged to have met and spent some time with at a recent FinCon conference, has really done a great job with this book. It’s also an excellent complement to her first book, The 5 Years Before You Retire. I recommend this book for any and all who are looking to retire soon, it’s a practical book with worksheets built in, and you’ll earn back your investment quickly with the sage advice.

Beyond – Beyond 401k and IRA

beyond-beyondAs a follow up to my post last week Beyond 401k and IRA, I discovered this week that I had neglected to point out a relatively new option that is very well worth considering.

This option was brought to my attention by my friend and colleague (and fellow GPN member) Lisa Weil of Clarity Northwest Wealth Management in Seattle, WA: as of late last year with the issuance of IRS Notice 2014-54, there is the option of over-funding your 401k with after-tax dollars, and then rolling over those monies to a Roth IRA when you leave employment.

The way it works is that after you max out your regular deducted 401k contributions, plus your company provided the matching funds, there is usually quite a bit of headroom available within the annual funding limits. You can (if your 401k administrator allows) make after-tax contributions to your 401k up to the limit of $53,000. This limit includes the “regular” contributions of $18,000 and your employer matching dollars. If you’re over age 50 the limit is $59,000 due to the catch-up.

When you leave employment, you can rollover your pre-tax contributions, employer contributions, and the growth in the account to a traditional IRA; THEN, you can take these after-tax contributions and rollover to a Roth IRA. Sort of a super-charged Roth IRA contribution method.

This is an excellent place to put your additional savings dollars after you’ve maxed out all of the other options. You need to be careful about the rollover when you retire, and your plan administrator also has to allow these after-tax contributions. If the administrator doesn’t currently allow the extra contributions, the plan can be amended to allow the extra contributions.

I applaud Lisa for pointing this out – and it shows once again that the rules for retirement plan contributions are complicated and constantly changing, and it pays to question everything as you go. I wrote about the change with Notice 2014-54 late last year in the article A New Way to Fund Your Roth IRA – and had forgotten about it when I wrote the article last week.

Thanks again, Lisa!

An Emergency Fund for Retirement

Photo courtesy of Thomas Lefebvre on unsplash.com

Photo courtesy of Thomas Lefebvre on unsplash.com

Many individuals have heard about having an emergency fund while working and saving for retirement. Generally, the rule of thumb has been to keep 3 to 6 months of non-discretionary living expenses on hand in case one loses their job, becomes disabled, or an unforeseen emergency occurs. But what about those individuals who are nearing or already retired? What should their emergency fund look like? Do they even need one?

One of the bigger risks that pre-retirees and retirees face in retirement is sequence risk. Sequence risk is generally defined as the risk of even lower portfolio returns due to making withdrawals from a retirement account when the market has experienced a downturn.

In other words, a retiree experiences sequence risk when their retirement account drops in value due to market volatility, and they make a withdrawal (or withdrawals) after the account has dropped in value. Another way to put it would be similar to an individual saving for retirement in their 30s, yet selling at the market bottom and “locking in” their losses.

Understandably, this can be disastrous for any retiree who has a goal of their money outlasting them in retirement. There are a few things pre-retirees and retirees may consider to help with reducing sequence risk.

  1. Consider having 1-2 years of living expenses in a savings account. This can help reduce the strain on the retirement account when markets are down by living off of the money in the “emergency fund” for retirement. Additionally, an individual may consider funding the emergency savings with money from the retirement account when markets are up in any given year. That is, sell from the assets classes that are up to replenish the cash account.
  1. Consider longevity insurance (an annuity). By purchasing longevity insurance an individual can transfer some of the sequence risk to the insurance company providing the annuity. In the event that their non-annuitized portfolio drops in value due to market volatility, the individual can take some comfort in knowing they will not have to withdraw as much from their assets since they will be receiving a guaranteed income stream from the annuity.
  1. Consider reducing spending temporarily. If possible, the individual can delay consumption until their portfolio improves. Granted, not everyone can afford to reduce spending (such as for health care, housing, etc.). But some individuals may find it to their advantage to put the vacation off a year, not dine out as much, or delaying discretionary purchases until their financial picture improves.
  1. Optimize your Social Security. There are many advantages and nuances an individual or couple can consider when applying for and taking Social Security benefits. By taking advantage of the options available, individuals may be able to maximize their income from Social Security (essentially an annuity) and help provide more guaranteed income during volatile market times.

Am I Saving Too Much?

350px-spuerschwainThis post is in response to a question an individual had for me when I was meeting with her a few months ago. The question she had for me and the title of the post was if she was saving too much money.

The reason she asked is that after a conversation with friends of hers, they had collectively told her that she was saving too much money for retirement. Currently, this 25 year old was saving 26% of her income for retirement! My verbal response was a firm, “Well done!” My internal response was, “Get some new friends.”

Her friends were trying to convince her that 10% was more than enough to save for retirement at such a young age. While 10% is a decent amount to put away, 26% is even better. In addition, this young lady was already used to saving 26% of her income. It wasn’t straining her financially.

This is what I told her. I recommended that she keep saving the same amount and gave her some reasons why. The first reason is that once she reduced the amount to say, 10% of her income, she would have an extremely difficult time increasing it in the future. Psychologically, she would be used to spending that money on something else and would see an increase as a “sacrifice” that would put strain on her income.

Second, we discussed the time value of money. Like any finance nerd I grabbed my financial calculator and went to work. Based on her income of $50,000 and current investment of $25,000 already in her plan, I took 26% of her income ($13,000) and invested that annual payment at 6% for 30 years. This turns out to be just over 1.17 million dollars (not accounting for any annual raises). Next, I reduced the annual contribution to just $5,000 (10%) of her income (again, not accounting for raises). In 30 years her nest egg dropped to just under $539,000 – less than half of what she’s currently on track to have.

Finally, and respectfully, I asked if her friends were willing to hand her a check at retirement for the difference. In other words, I asked if she was confident her friends would hand her a check in 30 years for $631,000 as congratulations for taking their advice.

She simply smiled and shook her head.

Identity Theft Protection

identity-dumpster-dive

Photo credit: jb

Whether they’re snatching your purse, diving into your dumpster, stealing your mail, or hacking into your computer, they’re out to get you. Who are they? Identity thieves.

Identity thieves can empty your bank account, max out your credit cards, open new accounts in your name, and purchase furniture, cars, and even homes on the basis of your credit history. What if they give your personal information to the police during an arrest and then don’t show up for a court date? You could be arrested and jailed.

And what will you get for their efforts? You’ll get the headache and expense of cleaning up the mess they leave behind. Not to mention the potential loss of money, even jobs, that goes along with this problem.

You may never be able to completely prevent your identity from being stolen, but here are some steps you can take to help protect yourself from becoming a victim.

Check Yourself Out

It’s important to review your credit report periodically. Check to make sure that all the information contained in it is correct, and be on the lookout for any fraudulent activity.

You may get your credit report for free once a year, from each of the three national credit reporting agencies. To do so, contact the Annual Credit Report Request Service online at www.annualcreditreport.com or call (877) 322-8228.

It’s important to use www.annualcreditreport.com – this is the FREE service that allows you to get your report(s) once per year from each agency. Other services claim to provide this service for free but you usually wind up paying something for it, possibly without even knowing. Be careful as you use these services – they offer many “pay” options such as credit monitoring, credit scores, and the like. Most of this you can live without. Just stick with the free report and review it carefully for any incorrect information or entries that appear to be fraudulent.

If you need to correct any information or dispute any entries, contact the three national credit reporting agencies:

Secure Your Number

Your most critical personal identifier is your Social Security number (SSN). Guard it carefully. Never carry your Social Security card with you unless you need it for a specific purpose (such as applying for a passport or driver’s license). The same goes for other forms of identification (such as health insurance cards) that include your SSN. Don’t have your SSN pre-printed on your checks, and don’t let merchants write it on your checks. Don’t give it out over the phone unless you initiated the call and it is to an organization that you trust. Ask the three major credit reporting agencies to truncate your SSN on your credit reports. Try to avoid listing it (where possible) on employment applications; offer instead to provide it during your interview.

Don’t Leave Home With It

Many of us carry our checkbooks and all of our credit cards, debit cards, and other cards with us all the time. That’s a bad idea – if your wallet or purse is stolen, the thief will have a treasure chest of new toys to play with.

Carry only the cards and/or checks you’ll need for any one trip. And keep a written record of all your account numbers, credit card expiration dates, and the telephone numbers of the customer service and fraud departments in a secure place – at home. It may be useful to make a photocopy (or as I do, a computer-scanned image) of all of your credit cards, driver’s license, insurance cards, etc., and keep those images in a safe place where you can get to them quickly in the event that your cards are stolen.

In addition, using a smart-phone application may be handy, but make sure that you have good security on your phone – no using “1234” as your passcode, for example.

Keep Your Receipts

When you make a purchase with a credit or debit card, you’re given a receipt. Don’t throw it away or leave it behind – it may contain your credit card number (this is much more rare these days), plus it is your sole defense in the event of fraud within the store. And don’t leave it in the shopping bag inside your car while you continue shopping either; if your car is broken into and the item you bought is stolen, your identity could be stolen as well.

Save your receipts until you can check them against your monthly statements, and watch your statements for purchases you didn’t make, or for amounts that don’t match. When you’re finished matching them, shred them!

When You Toss It, Shred It

Before you throw out any financial records such as credit or debit card receipts and statements, canceled checks, or even offers for credit cards you receive in the mail – shred the documents, preferably in a cross-cut shredder. If you don’t, you may find that the panhandler going through your dumpster was looking for more than just discarded leftovers. These cross-cut shredders are very affordable (starting around $50) and available at most discount stores and office supply outlets.

Keep A Low Profile

The more your personal information is available to others, the more likely you are to be victimized by identity theft. While you don’t need to become a hermit in a cave, there are steps you can take to help minimize your exposure:

  • to stop telephone calls from national telemarketers, list your telephone number with the FTC’s National Do Not Call Registry by registering online at www.donotcall.gov
  • to remove your name from most national mailing and e-mailing lists, as well as most telemarketing lists involving credit or insurance, register online at www.optoutprescreen.com
  • when given the opportunity to do so by your bank, investment firm, insurance company, and credit card companies, opt out of allowing them to share your financial information with other organizations.
  • You may even want to consider having your name and address removed from the telephone book and reverse directories. This is becoming more of a reality for everyone these days as landlines go the way of the buggy-whip.

Take a Bite Out Of Crime

Whatever else you may want your computer to do, you don’t want it to inadvertently reveal your personal information to others. Take steps to help assure that this won’t happen.

Install a firewall to prevent hackers from obtaining information from your hard drive or hijacking your computer to use it for committing other crimes. This is especially important any more since we nearly all use a high-speed connection that leaves you continuously connected to the internet, such as cable or DSL. Moreover, install virus protection software and update it on a regular basis as well.

Try to avoid storing personal and financial information on a laptop; if it’s stolen, the thief may obtain much more than the value of your computer. If you must store such information on your laptop, make things as difficult as possible for a thief by protecting these files with a strong password – one that’s at least eight characters long, and that contains uppercase and lowercase letters, as well as numbers and symbols.

“If a stranger calls, don’t answer.” Opening emails from people you don’t know, especially if you download attached files or click on hyperlinks in the message, can expose you to viruses, infect your computer with “spyware” or “malware” – software that captures information by recording your keystrokes – or lead you to “spoof” websites (websites that impersonate legitimate business sites) designed to trick you into revealing personal information that can be used to steal your identity.

If you wish to visit a business’s legitimate website, use your stored bookmark or type the URL address directly into your browser. If you provide personal or financial information about yourself over the internet, do so only at secure websites – to determine if a website is secure, look for a URL that begins with “https” instead of “http” or a padlock icon in the bottom of the browser’s status bar.

And when it comes time to upgrade to a new computer, remove all your personal information from the old one before you dispose of it. Using the “delete” function isn’t sufficient to do the job; overwrite the hard drive using a “wipe” utility program (several are available on the market). The minimal cost of investing in this software may save you from being wiped out later by an identity thief. There are also services that will take your old computer and recycle it, giving you a certification that the data is being wiped from the device before redeployment.

Lastly, Be Diligent

As the grizzled old duty sergeant used to say on the television show “Hill Street Blues” – Be careful out there. The identity you save may be your own!

A Brief Explanation of the Thrift Savings Plan (TSP)

TSPI love the TSP and the fund options it offers. Participants (generally government employees and military) have access to very low cost index fund options and a handful of target date funds (L Funds) that incorporate different combinations of the individual index fund options depending on what stage you’re at in your retirement savings journey. I wish more employer sponsored plans mirrored the TSP’s simplicity, low costs and efficiency. Employees may or may not have access to a match on deferrals, depending on their employment class.

The TSP has a number of different fund choices available. The G Fund invests in short-term Treasury securities that are specifically issued for the TSP. The principal and interest are guaranteed by the US Government but they are not inflation protected. That is, these funds may have returns below the inflation rate.

The C Fund is the common stock fund designed to replicate the returns of the S&P 500. The S Fund doesn’t follow the Dow Jones Industrial Average but rather the Dow Jones Completion Index. This means that it essentially includes small and mid-sized US companies not included in the C Fund. Owning the C Fund and S Fund together essentially gives you coverage of the entire US stock market.

The TSP also offers the F Fund that is a broad bond market index fund and the I Fund that invests in an international stock index. All of the TSP funds are exclusive only to the TSP. Non-governmental employees do not have access to them; hence why they don’t have ticker symbols.

Participants may consider choosing one of the L Funds. Currently the TSP offers an L Income Fund, L 2020, L 2030, L 2040, and L 2050. The funds move from conservative (L Income) to aggressive (L 2050) depending on your retirement horizon and risk tolerance. They also offer excellent diversification among a broader range of asset classes versus only the three funds you hold individually. Over time, these funds gradually become more conservative the closer you get to your retirement date.

One potential downside to the L Funds (or any target date fund) is that you run the risk of the fund becoming too conservative (investing more heavily in bonds) as the fund progresses toward the retirement target date. In other words, the conservative returns from the fund aren’t able to keep pace with the retiree’s withdrawal rates. Dr. Wade Pfau and Michael Kitces have written that actually increasing equity exposure may reduce the probability of running out of money in retirement (portfolio failure) and the magnitude of failure.

If you’re on of the lucky ones that has access to the TSP and not utilizing it, start. If you are utilizing it, it never hurts to revisit your allocations, fund choices and contributions. If you have question, connect with competent professional that understands the TSP.

Diversification: I Know I Should, But Why?

diversification of cakes

Photo credit: malomar

Any discussion of the tenets of long-term investing includes the recommendation for diversification. This concept is delivered almost without thought – after all, as children we are taught “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket!”. But have you ever stopped to consider just why we should diversify?

Of course, in the example of the saying about the eggs, it’s simple spreading of risk: if you have all your eggs in one basket and you drop that basket… all your eggs have broken! By spreading your eggs into a second basket, if one basket is dropped, only those eggs in that basket will break, and you’ve still got one basket of good, unbroken eggs.

What if we add a third basket? A fourth? As you might imagine, it soon becomes too clumsy to carry so many baskets (potentially one for each egg). One person couldn’t possibly manage twelve baskets effectively just to harvest a dozen eggs. So, while diversification makes sense to a degree, you always must keep in mind that it can be applied to an extreme and you lose the efficiency of the basket, plus your costs increase.

Enough about eggs for now though. Why do we preach diversification in investing? The root of this concept (at least in the modern age) come from something called “Modern Portfolio Theory”, which was developed by a fellow named Harry Markowitz. The overall theory is pretty weighty so we won’t cover it completely here (although I’d be happy to discuss it with you if you wish). The gist of the benefit of diversification follows.

Decisions about investments are always made in an environment of uncertainty. This is because, even though we have a belief that our investments will hold their value and will increase in value over time, there is no certainty that this will be the case. We can study the past performance, the present activity, and many pieces of information about the particular security – but we have no surety that the increase we hope for will occur.

This uncertainty is due to the continuous up and down volatility in investment prices. As an example, if a stock is worth $20 now and was worth $15 last week, we have no idea if it will be worth $30 tomorrow or possibly even $10. This shouldn’t be a surprise: how many times have you seen something in the news that seems like a good thing for the economy, like an interest rate cut – only to see the market drop like a stone at the release of the news? The opposite happens just as often.

So – what’s a guy to do? Enter diversification.

Diversification – Your Key to Reduce Volatility

It’s not hard to understand that every dollar you save in taxes and overall costs of investments equates to an increase in your bottom line total return. What may be difficult to follow though, is that diversification of risk can reduce volatility, and therefore reduce loss. An example may be the best way to get this point across.

Let’s say you have $1,000 in your overall portfolio, and through the year you have achieved a 20% gain. Shortly thereafter, your investment experiences a correction, amounting to a 20% loss. Most folks would think that you’ve just held ground and broke even in your account – but most folks would be wrong to think so. What happened is that your account gained 20% to a value of $1,200, and then the account lost 20% or $240 (.20 times $1,200), so in the end you have actually lost a net amount of $40. Just for grins, the result is the same if you work things in the reverse as well: a 20% loss gives you a balance of $800, and then a 20% gain ($160) gives you a final balance of $960, for a loss of the same $40.

For purposes of comparison, let’s look at another situation: a 10% gain followed by a 10% loss. From our previous example, we know that this isn’t just “holding ground” – we have lost a total of $10 in the process. We started with $1,000 and gained 10% to a value of $1,100, and then experienced a 10% loss ($110), for a final balance of $990.

What’s truly important to note about these two examples is the relationship of the volatility (the percentage size of the gains and losses) to the actual dollar loss realized. In the first case, the volatility was double that of the second (20% versus 10%), but the resulting loss was quadrupled!

If we took the first example and changed the volatility to a 40% swing in either direction, the resulting loss is even greater – a gain of 40% gives us $1,400, and the following loss of 40% ($560) brings us to a final balance of $840, for a loss of $160, which is sixteen times the loss we suffered in the 10% example. If you’re a mathematician, you’ll notice the relationship here: the level of volatility that we experience results in an exponential loss in the account. If we had a 50% gain followed by a 50% loss, our overall loss would be twenty-five times the loss in the 10% example, and so on.

It doesn’t take long to understand why it is important to keep volatility in your portfolio low: the smaller the “swings” of volatility, the lower your potential loss. When you increase the “swings” of volatility by a factor of one, your potential losses increase exponentially.

So – if I’ve done my job and explained this properly, the question on your mind at this point should be: “How do I get myself some of this low volatility?” And if you’ve been reading carefully up to this point, the answer should be obvious: diversify.

And how do we do that? Much the same as the eggsample from earlier, you want to find a place (or group of places) to invest your money that will result in less volatility. All investments are affected by various things around them – oil and gas companies are impacted by the cost of crude oil, banks are impacted by interest rates and the credit crunch, department stores are impacted by inflation, employment, and the seasons. What we look for are investment vehicles that are diverse enough to not all be impacted by the same kinds of things in the same magnitude at the same time. Therefore we diversify into different capitalization-weightings, different countries, and different sectors, all in an effort to reduce the overall risk of loss (volatility) in our portfolio.

For example – by investing in the S&P 500 index, we are diversifying across many different companies, sectors, and industries in the US marketplace. In addition to this investment, we might add a holding in the EAFE index (Europe, AustralAsia and Far East), further diversifying across different countries, companies, sectors and industries. By doing so, if something happens that makes United States Steel’s stock to lose 20% in value, the impact on our portfolio is minimized, since US Steel is only a very small portion of our portfolio. By the same token, if an event should occur that caused the stock market in Singapore to suddenly crash, and this event was limited in its exposure to just Singapore, then as before, since we’re diversified among many countries, our exposure to volatility is minimized.

I hope this explanation helps you to understand one of the very basic pillars of investing discipline. I would be remiss, though, if I didn’t point out that diversification can also have a negative impact on your gains. When you reduce the volatility in your investments, you’re not only reducing the downside swing, but the upside swing as well. What we give up is the “once in a lifetime” homerun-type of investments.

For example, if you happened to put all of your money in Google at it’s initial offering in August of 2004, by the end of that year you could have doubled your money. In the diversification example using the S&P 500, you would have had a small percentage of your portfolio in Google, and your overall return from August to December in 2004 would have been 10.8%. For an example on the other side of the coin, if you had placed your nest egg in Enron stock in late 2000, by mid 2001, you could have virtually nothing left, while the S&P 500 had fallen by a mere 17% during the same period. Reducing volatility, while it causes you to give up the spectacular gains, will also save you from the spectacular crashes. And we all know which one happens more often.

Do You Have The Will?

the will

Photo credit: malomar

Statistics show us that approximately 70% of all Americans don’t have a valid will. Are you one of them? With that statistic, chances are that you don’t. This means that in a circle of four people, three probably don’t have a will.

This situation begs an obvious question: Do I need a will? One simple way to determine if you need a will is if you can’t truthfully answer “No” to both of the following questions:

Do you care who gets your money and property when you die?
Do you care who is appointed guardian of your minor children if you die?

If you answered “Yes” to either or both of those questions, you need a will! Otherwise, state laws will determine the outcome of those situations – and it’s not likely that you would have made the same decisions that the state would.

Why should you have a will?

A will is appropriate for anyone, not just the rich, no matter how much money or property you have. A will is your instructions for how you’d like your belongings and assets distributed at your passing. Without a will, the courts will decide to whom your property will go – without regard to your wishes. The courts, according to state law, have a specific succession path that they will follow in distributing your assets. They won’t account for the fact that you loaned some money to your first child when they purchased their home, and as such you had intended to “equal things out” with the other two kids at your passing, for example.

In addition, anyone with minor children should definitely have a will. Only you (and presumably your spouse) should be making the decisions about who will care for the children as their guardian in the event of your untimely death. No one wants to think about death as a near-term event – but it happens every day. If it should happen to you and you don’t have a will in effect, your family and loved ones will be thrown into a confusing world of decisions that they aren’t prepared to make, on top of the very difficult situation that they already have in dealing with your death.

A third reason to have a will is for tax benefits. By utilizing your will to pass along your assets that have grown in value through the years (as opposed to making gifts during your lifetime), your heirs will receive the property at a “stepped up” value as of the date of your death (in most cases). For example, let’s say you own a piece of farmland that you purchased for $100,000 many years ago. Today, the land is actually worth something like $1,500,000 due to appreciation in land values. If you were to give this land to your son as a gift during your lifetime, and the son sold the land, he would owe capital gains tax on $1,400,000 (the growth of the value of the land), which would amount to something like $210,000 at a 15% rate. On the other hand, if you bequeathed the property to your son via your will (assuming that your overall estate was worth something south of $5.45 million), then there would be no tax owed, either on the transfer of the property or when your son sells it, if he sells immediately. This is because the act of inheriting property causes a “step up” in the value of the property, and so the tax basis of the property is $1,500,000, leaving no capital gain to tax (assuming again that the son sells the property for $1,500,000).

So – how do you get started? As mentioned above, there are a few things you need to consider when setting up a will. Some of the most difficult decisions generally surround the idea of guardianship for the children. Think through this decision carefully, along with your spouse (if you have one), and then talk to the person or persons you’ve chosen to be guardians. I generally recommend that you choose a guardian for the children and a trustee to manage funds that have been set aside for the children’s care (two different people). This way you have a separation of powers, and two heads working together for the benefit of the kids. In addition, many times if there is only a guardian who has the additional duty of administering funds, the guardian may tend to over- or under-utilize the funds on the children’s behalf. Having a separate trustee to help with this process can make sure that the funds are used as you intended.

The second person that you need to name in your will is an executor. This individual will be responsible for administering your will and your estate when you pass. Depending upon the circumstances, this person may need to be very skilled in working with others (your beneficiaries) to ensure that your instructions are properly enacted.

The specific instructions that you wish to have carried out completes the picture. In some cases, especially those including children, you’ll want the will to establish one or more trusts, requiring the naming of a trustee or trustees. This will help to ensure that your funds are used as you intended. You’ll also need to think about how the rest of your assets, money, and property might be distributed.

Start by gathering the names, addressses and dates of birth for you, your spouse, your children, other beneficiaries, your proposed guardian(s), and your proposed executor(s). I used plurals for guardian(s) and executor(s) because it can be very helpful to have “backup” people named for the event your original choice predeceases you.

Next, gather together your debt information – mortgages, car loans, credit cards, student loans, and any other loans you might have. Then list your assets – property, stocks, bonds, accounts, homes, personal property, etc.. Take pains to specifically identify each item of debt and assets, so that it is very clear which item you are referring to.

Lastly, gather copies of other existing legal documents, including divorce decrees, prior wills, trusts, prenuptual agreements, and any other document that might affect the legal distribution of your assets.

When you talk to your attorney, he or she will likely have other items that you need to gather, but this should head you in the right direction. And I do advocate using a lawyer – this is much too important for a “do-it-yourself” job. When you think about the consequences of doing it incorrectly, the cost for the attorney is a pretty small sum by comparison.

So – if you happen to be “one of the other three” in the circle of four, don’t delay. There’s no sense in putting your family and beneficiaries through the hassle of probate if you can help it – and you can. If you have the will.

Are You Biased? (Hint: Yes, You Are!)

3503494291_651161974f_nThere are several behavioral heuristics and biases that can lead to poor financial decisions. For brevity, we will focus on a few; mental accounting, the endowment effect, loss aversion and status quo bias. For each bias, we will provide a definition and then provide examples of how the biases can lead to poor financial decisions. Mental accounting is the way individuals code and evaluate transactions, investments and other financial outcomes.

An example is when employees with access to company stock have 50 percent of company stock in their retirement plan and the remaining money split evenly between stock and bond funds. These employees make the mistake of owning too much company stock (not enough diversification). Mental accounting puts company stock into its own “asset class.”

The endowment effect, developed by Richard Thaler is the tendency to place more value on an object once an individual owns it; especially if it’s a good not regularly traded. Poor financial decisions arise when individuals hold on to losing stocks (or mutual funds) as the endowment effect places more value on these securities than they’re worth. An individual then holds onto an asset they should otherwise sell.

This same example can also explain loss aversion. In loss aversion, losses hurt more than gains feel good – about twice as much. This was a monumental discovery made by Daniel Kahneman and Amos Tversky and their famous “S” curve. In the prior example, the individual may hang onto the losing security since it hurts much more to realize that loss. For now, his losses are only “paper losses”. He can avoid the pain of losing by not selling. This of course, can be detrimental to his portfolio. In other words, due to loss aversion, individuals take more risk to avoid losses.

Status quo bias refers to the bias in favor of remaining in the current economic state. Poor financial decisions may arise from status quo bias where it’s in an investor’s best interest to switch companies and investment portfolios (due to high commissions and expense ratios) yet the individual remains with the poorer economic choice of the more expensive portfolio. Yet they know they should move.

Another example, in retirement savings plans, there is less participation for employees that have to “opt-in” versus plans requiring them to “opt-out.” In other words, more employees are likely to go with the status quo (that is, they are likely to stay with the option requiring the least amount of effort) in retirement plans that require “opt-in” versus “opt-out.”

There are many biases that affect the finances of individuals. These are just a few. By learning about these different biases individuals can have a better understanding of why they act the way they do regarding their financial decisions and whom to seek out to receive objective advice to resist the urge to give in to biases.

Exception to the Divorced Spouse Remarriage Rule

remarriedGenerally speaking, when a divorcee is receiving a Social Security spousal benefit based on an ex-spouse’s record, the recipient must remain unmarried in order to continue receiving the ex-spouse benefit. (For more details on this, see Coordinating Social Security Benefits in Matters of Divorce and Remarriage.) In many cases,when a divorcee remarries, the spousal benefit based on his or her ex-spouse’s record will end.

However, there is an exception to this rule that I recently became aware of. It’s in part because the circumstances surrounding this exception have recently become more common – so let’s get to the exception.

The Exception

If the person who is receiving a spousal benefit based on an ex-spouse’s record marries someone who is currently receiving widow(er)’s, mother’s, father’s, divorced spouse’s, or parents’ benefits, the spousal benefit will continue. That’s a mouthful! Let’s play out an example:

Jane is divorced from Gerald. Jane has been receiving spousal benefits based on Gerald’s record for the past couple of years. Jane is engaged to marry Sheryl.  Sheryl’s husband Ed died several years ago, and she has been collecting a widow’s benefit (survivor benefit) based on Ed’s record for a couple of years now.

Since Sheryl is receiving the survivor benefit based on Ed’s record, the exception applies for Jane’s ex-spouse benefit, and Jane will be eligible to continue receiving this benefit after the marriage. If Sheryl was not currently collecting the survivor’s benefit (or one of the other excepted benefits), Jane’s ex-spouse benefit would end upon their marriage.

One important factor here is that Jane and Sheryl are both currently receiving the benefits (in Social Security parlance, they are entitled to the benefits). If Jane is not currently receiving the ex-spouse benefit when she and Sheryl get married, she would not be allowed to begin receiving the ex-spouse benefit based on Gerald’s record while she and Sheryl are married.

Likewise, if Sheryl was not receiving the survivor benefit or one of the other excepted benefits on the date of the marriage, Jane’s ex-spouse benefit would end upon their marriage.

Spousal IRAs for Stay at Home Parents

11431851765_6ccd5e459a_nMany parents make the decision that after their child is born one parent will stay at home to be with the child. Some of the reasons include saving on daycare expenses, and wanting at least one parent to bond and be with the child during those precious first few years of development.

Whatever the reason, the stay at home parent may leave a job and lose access to certain benefits – mainly their employer sponsored retirement savings plan. Although the stay at home parent has lost this benefit, it doesn’t mean that they have to stop saving for retirement.

One benefit the stay at home parent can take advantage of is the spousal IRA. Spousal IRAs aren’t a specifically titled IRA. In other words, the IRA needn’t be titled “Spousal IRA”. It’s simply an IRA in the stay at home parent’s name – no different than if they had an IRA and were currently working.

Generally, in order to contribute to an IRA a person needs to have earned income. This means W2 wages from employment. Since the stay at home parent is no longer working, this may seem like an insurmountable obstacle. The solution however is pretty easy.

The stay at home parent can still contribute to the Traditional IRA or Roth IRA as long as the working spouse has enough earned income for the stay at home spouse to make a contribution. For example, let’s assume that Mary is a stay at home parent and her husband Hank works a full time job earning $60,000 per year. For 2015, both Mary and Hank can make maximum IRA contributions of $5,500 to each of their IRAs (we’re assuming they’re under age 50). Hank is able to contribute off of his earnings and Mary is allowed to contribute since Hank has enough earned income and Mary takes advantage of this as his spouse.

Although Mary may have lost access to her prior company’s 401k plan, she can still save for her retirement as long as Hank has enough earned income. Finally, Hank and Mary’s contributions are limited to Hank’s earned income for the year. In other words, if Hank only had earned income of $8,000 for the year, he could put $5,500 in his IRA and only $2,500 in Mary’s IRA for a total of $8,000 – his maximum earned income for the year.

More information on IRAs and spousal IRAs can be found here. Or check out Jim’s book, An IRA Owner’s Manual.