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Index Funds: The Oatmeal of the Investing World

Wilfordbrimleyquakerad oatmealWe know it almost instinctively, from all the information we’ve seen about it: oatmeal is good for you.  For cryin’ out loud, Wilford Brimley made a living telling us “It’s the right thing to do, and a tasty way to do it.”  But in general, most folks look at oatmeal as a bland, tasteless, boring sort of food, and therefore choose much more exciting foods – often to our detriment.

There’s a similar story about index funds for investing:  it would be to the benefit of every investor to choose index funds as the core of his or her investment strategy.  In this case, the part of Wilford Brimley is being played by Burton Malkiel – venerable author of the classic book A Random Walk Down Wall Street.  And again most folks, especially those of us who deem ourselves too sophisticated for such a bland, tasteless, boring investment, choose to use much more exciting investment vehicles – often to our detriment as well.

According to Malkiel in his book – The Elements of Investing – while people of modest means are hurt most by not saving regularly, wealthy folks suffer the most damage by trying to find the “home run” sort of investments pushed by actively managed funds and stock-picking gurus.  “If I took all the mutual funds that existed in the early 1970s and asked the question of how many really beat the market through 2009, you can count them on the fingers of one hand”, says Malkiel.

Benefits of Oatmeal (and indexes)

From reports by the American Cancer Society, the great benefits of oatmeal in your diet include the fact that it’s a source of both soluble and insoluble fibers.  These two fibers give us diversification across these food “asset classes” that provide the benefits of reducing bile acid toxicity, reducing LDL cholesterol (that’s the bad kind), slowing digestion and absorption of starch, all the while providing us with vitamin E, zinc, selenium, copper, iron, manganese, magnesium and protein.  It’s almost as if oatmeal provides us with all the good things we need, and canceling out all the bad – and the diversity of providing all these good things in one package makes oatmeal the perfect food!

An index fund (or a group of index funds covering all asset classes) provides the investor with similar benefits – diversification across all possible investments, providing the average “good” returns while canceling out the bad or negative returns.

It’s safe to say that a diet consisting solely of oatmeal probably wouldn’t be good for you, and no one is suggesting that.  A proper diet requires many other things that just aren’t present in oatmeal.  If, however, you did include all of those other things – fruit, dairy, and the like – in your oatmeal, you actually could do far worse than choosing a steady diet of your “super oatmeal” all the time.  It’s kind of like choosing more than one type of index fund for investing – except that we humans need variety in our diet to keep us satisfied. There’s no inherent need for this satisfaction variety in our investments.

So if you started your investing diet with a blend of two oatmeals – the aggregate bond market index and the total domestic stock market – and then tossed in a portion of some fruits and veggies:  the aggregate Europe, Australasia and Far East equity markets, a dollop of emerging equity markets, plus a pinch or two of global equities, then a portion of domestic and global real estate (for that yummy crunch!).  Now you’ve got yourself a super oatmeal for investing – providing everything you need to balance your investment tastes.  Plus, you don’t have to pay a restaurant (managed fund company) to provide you with a menu, nor do you have to pay extra for a chef (mutual fund manager).

The good thing is that the appetite of our investment accounts doesn’t really need the “filet mignon” or “lobster” sort of investments to maintain proper balance.  The steady diet of our “oatmeal” index funds, properly diversified, is plenty for investors of all walks of life.

Disclaimer: I don’t personally eat oatmeal, but I do eat an oat-based cold cereal for breakfast every morning – pretty much the same thing, only a little more convenient for me.  Liken it to the difference between a no-load index fund and an ETF. 

Photo by Quaker Oats

Boost Your Social Security Benefit

boost your Social Security benefitsAs we’ve discussed elsewhere, your Social Security benefit is calculated based on your highest 35 years of earnings over your career, indexed to the year you reach age 62.  So can continuing to work past age 62 (or later) boost your Social Security benefits?

Any year in your earnings history that had very little or no earnings covered by Social Security works against you. Since the calculation assumes 35 years of earnings, any zero years will reduce the average. If you only had, for example, 30 years of earnings on your record and five “zero” years, these years with no earnings will reduce your average earnings that are used for calculating your benefit amount. Continuing to work, even for a minimal amount, will gradually eliminate these zero years from your record for calculation and boost your benefit.

In addition, if you’re earning a higher salary relative to your earnings record, some of the lower years’ earnings can be eliminated from your calculation record as well. If you are earning more now than your indexed earnings from earlier, these higher income years will replace the lower income years, thereby boosting your Social Security benefit by increasing the overall average.

Lastly, when you get your annual statement from the Social Security Administration, a projected benefit amount is reported.  If you read the fine print, the projected benefit amount assumes that you continue to work up to the retirement age indicated, with your earnings remaining roughly the same as your most recent year. If you retire at age 62 with no further earnings and wait to age 66 to begin receiving benefits, the amount of benefit that was projected for you at age 62 will be lower because you will have added zero years to the end of your working career.  The estimate assumed that you continued working at (presumably) a high earnings rate relative to the rest of your record.

60-day Rollover Waivers

rollover-dorj

Photo credit: jb

There are all sorts of problems that can crop up when attempting to complete a 60-day rollover of qualified funds to an IRA. If you don’t complete the rollover within 60 days, the rollover is not allowed, and your distribution from the original source is subject to tax (and perhaps a penalty). Sometimes you can be granted automatic waivers of the 60-day rule, but only if all of the following apply:

  • The financial institution receives the funds on your behalf before the end of the 60-day rollover period, but for some reason the institution didn’t get the funds deposited into your eligible retirement plan;
  • You followed all the procedures set by the financial institution for depositing the funds into an eligible retirement plan within the 60-day period (including giving instructions to deposit the funds into an eligible retirement plan);
  • The funds are not deposited into an eligible retirement plan within the 60-day rollover period solely because of an error or delay on the part of the financial institution;
  • The funds are eventually deposited into an eligible retirement plan within 1 year from the beginning of the 60-day rollover period; AND
  • It would have been a valid rollover if the financial institution had deposited the funds as instructed within the time allotted.

Self certification waivers

There is another option available if the automatic waiver does not apply – called self certification. In order to self certify, you need to fill out a letter using the model at Revenue Procedure 2016-47, or a substantially similar letter. This letter is then presented to the custodian who is to receive your late rollover contribution.

You will be entitled to a waiver if ALL of the following are true:

  • The rollover contribution satisfies all of the other requirements for a valid rollover (except the 60-day requirement).
  • You can show that one or more of the reasons listed in the Model Letter prevented you from completing a rollover before the expiration of the 60-day period.
  • The distribution came from an IRA you established or from a retirement plan you participated in.
  • The IRS has not previously denied your request for a waiver.
  • The rollover contribution is made to the plan or IRA as soon as practicable (usually within 30 days) after the reason or reasons for the delay no longer prevent you from making the contribution.
  • The representations you make in the Model Letter are true.

Please note, a self-certification is not a waiver by the IRS of the 60-day rollover requirement. However, if you qualify for a waiver, you can use the Model Letter to make a late rollover contribution to another plan or IRA. If the IRS subsequently audits your income tax return, it may determine that you do not qualify for a waiver, in which case you may owe additional taxes and penalties. Also, If you have requested a PLR (below) and were not granted a waiver, you cannot self certify on this rollover.

Private Letter Ruling (PLR)

If the above conditions do not apply, you can still request a ruling from the IRS, called a Private Letter Ruling (PLR). You would take this route if you still think your circumstances merit the inclusion of your rollover even though it was beyond the 60-day period.  There is a $10,000 fee for requesting the PLR.

When making a determination on your request, the IRS will consider all of the following details:

  • Whether errors were made by the financial institution (other than those described under “Automatic waiver”, earlier),
  • Whether you were unable to complete the rollover due to death, disability, hospitalization, incarceration, restrictions imposed by a foreign country or postal error,
  • Whether you used the amount distributed (for example, in the case of payment by check, whether you cashed the check), and
  • How much time has passed since the date of distribution.

If you are planning to request a PLR, keep in mind that the costs can be quite high.  In addition to the earlier-listed $10,000 user fee, the cost for a tax attorney to prepare the request can be anywhere from $5,000 to $10,000 and more, depending upon the complexity.

Once again, the problems you find with the 60-day rollover highlight the benefit of doing the relatively painless trustee-to-trustee transfer.

Social Security for the Self-Employed

self-employed musicianAs a self-employed small business owner, you have lots of plates to keep spinning, and lots of additional costs that you never dreamed of when you were employed by someone else (if you ever were), like health insurance, for example.  Another cost that you have to deal with when self-employed is Self-Employment tax.

Self-Employment tax (SE tax) is essentially where you are paying both the employER and the employEE portion of the Social Security withholding tax.  This means that, for 2018, you are taxed at a rate of 12.4% on your first $128,700 of income (double the rate you’d have withheld if you were employed by someone else).  This doesn’t count the 2.9% that you also have to withhold for Medicare tax – which is another matter altogether.

With this in mind, you might wonder if there are ways that you could reduce the Self-Employed tax…?  One way might be to incorporate your business and reduce your income by taking dividends for a portion of the otherwise taxable income.  By doing this, you would eliminate the SE tax, and then pay employER withholding and employEE withholding only on each paycheck that you provide yourself.  The dividends would not be subject to Social Security tax, since they are not wages.

It’s important to note that such a strategy will have two important factors for you to consider:

  1. Your earnings record will reflect the new, reduced amounts for income, so your future Social Security benefit will be reduced as well
  2. You must be careful to pay yourself a reasonable wage, otherwise the IRS will consider your dividends to be taxable as wage income.  It might seem clever to reduce your wages to a very low amount (or eliminate them altogether), but this will come back to haunt you when the IRS gets ahold of your return.

Incorporating your business may be a valid strategy to help reduce your tax costs – for other reasons beyond Social Security tax.  But you’ll need to consider all of the consequences before you do this – one of the most important factors being that you will want to increase your retirement savings in order to make up for reduced future Social Security benefits.

The Benefit of a Budget

this guy started his budget sometime around 1972There are two important records that you need to keep if you’re planning to be successful in managing your finances – a budget and a net worth statement.  In this post we’ll talk about how to make a budget, and the benefits of having one. (I can almost hear you groan: Great, the financial guy says I need a budget.  I can’t stand the idea of a budget!)

It doesn’t have to be like that. It’s easy to imagine that a budget would be a constraint, but this is really just a fear of the unknown.  A budget is really just a spending plan, with priorities applied. There don’t have to be constraints at all – the process of monitoring is the most important part of it all, as you’ll see in a bit.

How to make a budget

Making a budget is much more simple than you think.  Track your spending over the past several months (if you can gather the records) and do the same for every expense you pay out from this point forward.  Organize these expenditures into categories (you make them up – have fun with it if you like) and begin to think about how your categories relate to your life and your values.  For example, you likely have a category for auto expenses, another for home or household expenses, maybe one for groceries, and another for restaurants.  You may also have categories for entertainment, gifts, and clothing.

Certain expenses are fixed – such as your mortgage, cable TV, and auto insurance (although each of these could be adjusted from their current amounts).  But other expenses can vary quite a bit, such as dining out, entertaining, and clothing.  And if you think about it, some of the fixed expenses might be more variable than you think – or at least they could be reduced.

What’s important about a budget is that you are now thinking about your expenditures as you make them.  As you track your spending, you’re going to notice that there are some categories that you spend a lot of your income on, while other categories may not have any expenditures in some months.

What you’re doing is prioritizing – even if you haven’t made a conscious effort to do so.  Those things that you spend a lot of money on are the things that are (presently) getting more of your attention, time, and money, while other areas are being short-changed.  Until you create a spending plan to track your expenses, you probably won’t realize what those priorities really are.  Now that you have your spending plan, you can understand the priorities – and you probably will make some changes.

For example, if it turns out that you’re spending exactly every penny that you earn or more (thus no savings), you may decide that savings for a rainy day is important to you (remember, no judgments here, we’re just reviewing the plan).  If that’s the case, then you need to figure out what categories of your spending plan are less important to you than saving for a rainy day.  Maybe it’s clothes.  Or your auto expenses.  Or gifts.  Whatever that category or categories may be, you are in control and can make wise decisions about what gets priority and what doesn’t, for your life.

Start with your “fixed” expenses – mortgage, homeowner’s insurance, utilities, etc..  Are these really fixed?  Is it possible to impact the cost of your homeowner’s insurance – maybe by choosing a higher deductible (for example)?  How about refinancing your mortgage to a lower rate?  Just be careful that you don’t draw out equity when you do this, or stretch out the payments beyond what’s reasonable – but this could free up some money each month.  Maybe you’ve been paying on your mortgage for several years now and have built up equity to a point where you don’t have to pay PMI any more if you refinanced.  What about your utilities?  Couldn’t you reduce the cost by bumping the thermostat up (or down, depending on the season) a degree or two?

There are a myriad ways to reduce or eliminate these “fixed” expenses – as well as to impact your more variable expenses.  Cut back on dining out.  There’s no shame in brown-bagging your lunch – if dining out isn’t a high priority for you.  The same goes for grocery costs (clip coupons, choose store brands), clothing (most folks have more clothes than they ever wear anyhow), automobile expenses (take the bus, or work out a telecommuting arrangement at your job), and so on.

The point is that unless you track your spending, you can only have a vague idea of what your spending priorities really are.  By tracking your spending, now you are fully conscious of where you are putting your money – and you can decide what categories get more of your hard earned dollars.

The benefit of a budget

As mentioned above, once you begin tracking your expenses you are now in a position to understand and take control of your spending.  Where before you thought that all these expenses were necessary, now you can begin thinking of where your priorities lie.  If you place a higher value on a particular category, let’s say it’s charitable giving, and that priority is higher than your priority for cable television, now you are in a position to consider how to reduce the one expense in order to put more toward the other.  Having organized your information you can plan out how your budget dollars will be spent.

The bottom line is this – if you’re going along merrily without any sort of plan or monitoring arrangement, two things are going to eventually happen:

  1. You’ll never achieve the balance of priorities that you hope to achieve in your life; and
  2. At some point, when your income is reduced either by a change in job situation or at retirement, you’re going to have to work out a budget because the expenses without a plan are greater than your income.

Most everyone comes to this point in their life – and those who have spent a bit of time working on understanding their outlays in advance are in a much better position to make changes and adjust to a reduced income when it occurs.

The psychology of a budget

It’s a ubiquitous message in the financial world – you should have a budget. (Perhaps the word “budget” is a turn-off for you, so please use “spending plan” or whatever term you’d like to apply to a system where you track your income and expenses.) For many, it seems like this budget thing is some sort of torture device or a method designed solely to punish you for your spending choices. But did you know that the simple act of tracking your expenses and income can begin to improve your financial situation – without guilt?

If you concentrate on the monitoring aspect of a budget (or spending plan), something interesting will occur. You’ll begin to notice where you’re spending money, and how much money you’re bringing in as income… and as you do this, you’ll automatically begin to make decisions that will help to improve the overall outcome. You’ll reduce expenses where they’re not as necessary, and perhaps bring in more income as opportunities arise.

Part of this may come about by virtue of a management principle known as the Hawthorne Effect – which was a study done in a factory that noted improvement to productivity any time the workers knew they were being monitored. The study leaders increased the lighting in the factory – and productivity increased. Then they reduced the lighting in the factory – and once again, productivity increased.

The Hawthorne Affect invokes the idea that if you’re paying attention to something, especially if you’re being accountable to someone else, it will likely improve. Your accountability can be to your spouse, a roommate, or anyone at all, such as an online community. You can also use software for accountability – such as Mint.com or Quicken software. You just have to get into the accountability mindset.

When you have something to compare to – either a goal expense amount or your historical averages – there is a tendency over time to push your self to improve what you’re monitoring to meet that comparison. This is another management principle known as the John Henry Effect. This principle was developed based on the folk story of John Henry’s competition with the steam engine, and how John Henry stopped at nothing, even death, to beat his competition (comparison). Of course you wouldn’t take your financial improvement to the point of your death – but it just might get you over the hump to improving your financial world. Having a competition, a sort of internal game-play, can be helpful to improve your financial situation.

Not So Fast! 9 Special Considerations Before Rolling Over Your 401(k)

h dumpty

Photo credit: coop

Conventional wisdom has long told us that when you leave employment – either by taking another job, getting laid off, or retiring – it makes good sense to rollover your 401k plan to either an IRA or to your new employer’s 401k plan if that makes sense.

However – and if you read here much, you know there’s always a however in life – this decision isn’t as cut-and-dried as conventional wisdom leads us to believe.  As with just about every financial decision we make, it’s not wise to go off willy-nilly without considering all of the benefits that we’re giving up. (and if you’ve read much of my writings, you know I don’t cater much to the willy-nilly!)

9 Special Considerations Before You Rollover Your 401k

  1. If you are happy with your former employer’s plan, consider it well-managed, with low cost, and possibly with some investment options that are not readily available (such as desirable mutual funds that are closed to new investors), you may want to leave the plan right where it is. This is especially beneficial if you don’t have another employer plan to rollover your 401k into, or if you are squeamish about setting up an IRA.
  2. It is possible that maintaining a 401k account could garner you some employer-sponsored financial advice. Not all plans offer this, but if yours does, it could be a valuable option to keep. If you rollover your 401k, this benefit would be gone.
  3. If you have commingled deductible and non-deducted IRA contributions in your IRA account, having an active 401k plan can help you to separate the deductible IRA money from the non-deducted.  See this article about the pro-rata rule for more information. Essentially this benefit gives you a way to bypass the “little bit pregnant” rule which requires you to aggregate all IRA funds pro-rata when making distributions. This is a common issue when doing a Roth IRA conversion, for example. If you rollover your 401k, this option may be lost, unless you rollover into a new 401k.
  4. If you have an investment in your former employer’s stock in your 401k, you need to consider the ramifications of utilizing the Net Unrealized Appreciation (NUA) option – before doing a rollover. This article explains NUA, in case you need a refresher. The point is, if you’ve taken even a partial rollover of your 401k in a previous year, the NUA treatment is no longer available to you.
  5. capitol building by terren in Virginia If you think you may be returning to this employer, it might make sense to leave your funds where they are. This is especially true for government employers with section 457 plans – due to the nature of these plans’ ability to provide you with retirement income without penalty much earlier than an IRA or 401k can.  With the vagaries of governmental policy changes, if you’ve withdrawn and closed your account and come back to work for the same agency, the old plan may no longer be available to you since you’re a “new” participant.
  6. If you’re at or older than age 55 and are not moving to a new employer (or are undertaking self-employment), maintaining the 401(k) plan gives you an option to begin taking distributions prior to age 59½ without penalty.  If you rollover your 401k to an IRA or to a new employer’s 401k plan, this option is lost.
  7. On the off-chance that you might need a loan from your retirement funds, you should know that IRAs do not have this provision.  Retain at least some balance in the plan if you might need this option – but also you should check with your plan administrator to see if this option is available for non-employee plan participants, because it might not be (and actually, it likely is not).  But keeping in mind #5, if you’ve maintained a healthy balance in the plan and you return to work with this same employer, you’d have a much larger account to work with if you needed to borrow.
  8. Funds in a 401k account are protected by ERISA – and as such are generally not available to creditors in the event of a personal bankruptcy.  Depending upon the state you live in, IRA assets may be available to your creditors in the event of a bankruptcy.  If you’d like to bone up more on this, see this article.  At any rate, ERISA protection is pretty much an absolute, so this is yet another reason you might consider leaving funds in a former employer’s 401k plan.
  9. Take your after-tax contributions out first, if your plan happens to include these.  If you’ve made after-tax contributions, as some plans allow, it makes sense to separate these contributions from the pre-taxed amounts.  You can then convert this after-tax money directly over to a Roth IRA in most cases without tax. This is because the 401k isn’t subject to the “little bit pregnant” rule alluded to earlier.  Once you’ve removed the after-tax contributions and put them into a Roth IRA, you might want to rollover your 401k (the remaining money) if it makes sense.

I don’t imagine that this is an exhaustive list of all the reasons you need to stop and think about it before rolling over a 401k plan, but we’ve hit the high points.  If you have other good reasons to share, please leave a comment!

Why Inactivity Can Be Your Best Friend

When most of us think about the word inactive, we may think negatively – such as lounging around on the couch, being lazy, or apathetic to a given situation. Most of us feel the need to be active to promote a healthy lifestyle through exercise, perform optimally at our job, or being involved with our family. In many cases, this is valid.

There is one area where inactivity can be beneficial.

When it comes to investing, doing less can help us achieve the expected return we need on our portfolios, while keeping expenses as low as possible.

For many of us, this seems counterintuitive. Many of us can’t help but to do something, anything. Some of us may feel that if we are in control of our investments, we can impact their performance.

But the truth is for most us, we are not in control. We cannot control the markets. We cannot control the fluctuations. Being active in our portfolios to control volatility and returns is a frivolous endeavor.

What do I mean by active? Here are a few examples. Selling out of a stock or fund when it is underperforming, without any other basis for consideration. Just because an asset is underperforming doesn’t mean it should be sold. In fact, we should expect assets in our portfolios to underperform – to lose money from time to time. This means we are diversified.

Another example is buying an asset based on recent performance. Based on its recent good performance, we may feel it’s bound to keep going up. We may also feel the need to buy and sell based off news reports, market prognosticators, or tips from family and friends. This can lead to the temptation of day trading – a recipe for disaster.

To paraphrase the great Warren Buffett, much can be attributed to inactivity, but investors cannot resist the urge to do something.

What do we mean by inactivity? Inactivity means once we have our asset allocation determined, and have the appropriate diversification among the asset classes, we need to sit back and let our investments do their work. This keeps expenses low, transaction costs to a bare minimum, and more importantly, allows us to focus on things we can control – such as other areas in our wealth management planning.

I jokingly call this a “Rip Van Winkle” portfolio. Set it up, fall asleep for many years, then wake up and look at how much money you have. We’ll have save money, time, and energy by not trying to control what we can’t. And over time, we’ll find that we’ve done way better in our investments than those who are busy (and stressing) for the sake of being active.

Converting Directly From a 401(k) to a Roth IRA

converting directly to MC2150

Photo credit: jb

Back in the olden days prior to 2008, it used to be against the rules to convert funds directly from a 401(k) plan (or other CODA plan, like a 403(b)) to a Roth IRA.  At that time, you were required to do the “conversion two-step” wherein you would first rollover or direct-transfer your funds from the 401(k) plan to a traditional IRA, then do a conversion from the trad IRA into your Roth IRA.  This was an unnecessarily complicated process, and the IRS logically waited until it got ridiculous and then relented listened to taxpayers, allowing taxpayers the option of converting directly from these qualified retirement accounts into a Roth IRA.

This earlier process was needlessly complicated, and it often introduced additional room for taxation, especially if you have after-tax money in your 401(k) plan.

The process is identical to the process for converting directly from a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA.  You can make this conversion from your:

  • Employer’s qualified pension, profit-sharing or stock bonus plan (including a 401(k) or other plan),
  • Annuity plan,
  • Tax-sheltered annuity plan (section 403(b) plan), or
  • Governmental deferred compensation plan (section 457 plan).

You are allowed to convert all or part of the account. Prior to 2010, there was an income limit on converting directly to a Roth IRA from any account, but that limitation was eliminated. Any pre-tax amount converted must be reported as income in the year of the conversion. If your account includes after-tax amounts, there may be some fancy footwork involved but you may be able to convert the after-tax monies without tax or penalty.

The conversion can be done either via a direct trustee-to-trustee transfer or a rollover.  In general, the trustee-to-trustee transfer is the preferred method since a rollover involves making a check payable to you, which requires the payor to withhold 20% of the rollover. If your 401(k) administrator has the option available, you can request a non-direct rollover (check made out to the new IRA account), which will allow you to bypass the withholding requirement.

Any amount that is not successfully converted (via an indirect rollover) within 60 days would be taxable AND subject to the 10% penalty unless other conditions apply. In other words, when you convert these funds over to your Roth account, in order to pay the tax on the withdrawal you’ll need to either hold out a portion and pay the 10% penalty on those funds, or pay the tax from another source.

Auto Insurance Explained

Photo courtesy of Kyle Szegedi via Unsplash.com.

Most individuals who drive a vehicle have that vehicle insured (or should). In many states (including Illinois) auto insurance is mandatory. However, mandatory does not mean adequate. Even the phrase “full coverage” does not indicate adequate coverage for a person or family. The following is a breakdown of what coverages are generally provided on an auto policy, and some ideas regarding the amount those coverages should be.

A. This coverage is for you or a permitted driver of your vehicle that provides liability coverage in the event you are liable for bodily injury from an auto accident. This coverage provides bodily injury protection on a per person and per accident basis. There’s also coverage for property damage. Coverages are stated in thousands of dollars. For example, 250/500/100 means $250,000 of bodily injury protection per person, $500,000 total per accident, and $100,000 property damage coverage. Coverage amounts can be higher (or lower), but 250/500/100 is the minimum one should have.

B. Medical Payments. This coverage is provided to you and occupants of your vehicle for injuries sustained or for you if you’re struck by a vehicle while as a pedestrian (e.g. walking in a crosswalk and hit by a car). Coverage is usually from $1,000 to $5,000 per person, per occurrence.

C. Uninsured/Under-Insured Motorist. This coverage provides you and occupants of your vehicle coverage in the event another party is liable for your injuries and doesn’t have enough of their own insurance coverage (liability) to cover your injuries or they don’t have any insurance at all. Generally, these amounts are going to be identical to Coverage A amounts on your policy.

D. Coverage for Damage to Your Vehicle (Comprehensive and Collision). This coverage is what most people think of when they hear “full coverage”. Full coverage meaning there’s the required liability protection (Coverage A) along with the optional Coverage D (comp and collision). Let’s break comp and collision down further.

a. Comprehensive (or sometimes called Other Than Collision) is coverage for damage to your vehicle arising from theft, vandalism, colliding with a bird, deer, or other animal, glass damage, fire, hail. Generally, there a deductible involved (your sharing in the loss). After the deductible is met, then insurance pays the remainder for damages. Generally, the higher the deductible, the lower the premium. In many cases, damage from comprehensive losses are not considered at-fault (they won’t increase your premiums).

b. Collision is coverage for damage to your vehicle arising from hitting another car, running off the road, hitting a tree, driving into a lake. Like comprehensive, there will be a deductible involved after which the insurance company will pay for the damages. Unlike comprehensive, in most cases a collision claim will result in an at-fault accident that will likely raise your premiums.

c. For both comp and collision consider the age of the vehicle and the age of the driver. If the vehicle is older (10+ years) consider dropping these coverages and carrying liability only. If you have a young (teen) driver, consider rating he or she on a vehicle with liability only. Naturally, you may not have the choice if you have a lien on the vehicle. In that case, the lender may require comp and collision with specific deductibles.

Here are some other aspects of auto insurance that are good to know. In most cases, your coverage will extend to rental vehicles (check with your carrier to be sure). This means many individuals can skip the extra insurance pitched to them when renting a car while on business or vacation.

Insurance follows the vehicle. This means that if you borrow someone’s car or they borrow yours and there’s an accident, the insurance used first is the insurance that on the vehicle involved in the accident, regardless of driver.

Additionally, most policies will not provide coverage outside of the US. Some exceptions are Canada and within a certain distance inside the border of Mexico. Again, check with your specific carrier.

Finally, many carriers will specifically exclude coverage for auto racing, driving a vehicle without permission, business use, being an Uber or taxi driver, or regular use of a vehicle by a driver not underwritten on the policy.

As always, if you have any questions about auto insurance (or other insurance) feel free to contact us. Even though we don’t “sell” insurance, our office is licensed in insurance to give you the advice you need.

The Importance of IRA Custodial Documents

custodial documents

Photo credit: jb

Remember when you opened your IRA account? And the broker or advisor handed you the 37-page custodial documents? Read that cover-to-cover, dintcha?

Unfortunately, too many of us don’t read these documents closely, and may end up getting a big surprise later on.  What sorts of surprises, you might ask…? Well, here are two major surprises that could await you:

Per Capita or Per Stirpes? If you have multiple beneficiaries of your IRA, how your IRA custodian determines between these two will be important to know. This difference will determine how your account will be distributed.  Here’s how – Per Capita means that, for example, if you have three equal beneficiaries designated on your account and one of the beneficiaries pre-deceases you, the account will then be split in two, between the two remaining beneficiaries.  If the account were to be split Per Stirpes, the two remaining beneficiaries would each receive a 1/3 share, and the beneficiaries (or the estate) of the deceased beneficiary would receive the remaining 1/3 share. Typically there is a check-box on the beneficiary form to help you designate your beneficiaries as you wish, and if not specified by you, ultimately the control comes down to the custodial documents.  This becomes even more important with the second consideration…

Divorced, but forgot to change beneficiary form? Depending upon the custodial agreement, the custodian could follow the court’s ruling, wherein the divorce decree may declare that all marital property is split as indicated and named in the document, with no other splitting to be done. Or, the custodian could go strictly “by the book”, where the beneficiary form indicates a specific individual as the primary beneficiary, regardless of any other outside document. And here is how the Per Stirpes/Per Capita issue becomes important in this case:  what happens if the former spouse is the only named beneficiary on the account (no secondary beneficiary(ies)), and the former spouse pre-deceases the account owner? If the custodian holds to the Per Stirpes definition, the former spouse’s heirs could reap the benefits of the account… scary huh?

So, in the end, it pays to know a little about the custodial documents on your IRA account, just so you don’t have any surprises.  If you don’t understand it or can’t follow what the document is telling you, make your advisor explain it to you – especially these two factors mentioned above.  That’s part of an advisor’s job – to advise you – and you’re paying them to do that sort of thing.

Who should do a mid-year tax checkup?

As a followup to my two posts last week on mid-year withholding checkup and estimated tax checkup, I found another notice from the IRS last week that pointed out there are certain groups of people really need to do amid-year checkup. This alert was part of the IRS’ communication IR-2018-80.

Special alert for key groups to check withholding

The IRS always recommends employees check their withholding at the beginning of each year or when their personal circumstances change to make sure they’re having the right amount of tax withheld from their paychecks.

Following the recent tax law changes, it’s especially important for certain people to use the Withholding Calculator on IRS.gov to check if they are having the right amount of withholding.

Among the groups, in particular, who should check their withholding are people who:

  • Belong to a two-income family.
  • Work two or more jobs or only work for part of the year.
  • Have children and claim credits such as the Child Tax Credit.
  • Have older dependents, including children age 17 or older.
  • Itemized deductions on their 2017 tax returns.
  • Earn high incomes and have more complex tax returns.
  • Received large tax refunds or had large tax bills for 2017.

“The IRS urges people in these groups to take a few minutes and review their withholding and tax situation,” Kautter said. “Taking this step will help avoid surprises next year at tax time. ”

The new law increased the standard deduction, removed personal exemptions, increased the child tax credit, limited or discontinued certain deductions, and changed the tax rates and brackets.

If you fit into one of those groups and need more information on how to do a mid-year withholding checkup, see the article at the link.

3 Ways to Do a Roth Conversion – Tax Free

tax

Photo credit: jb

If you have money in an IRA and you’d like to do a tax free Roth conversion, you may be wondering just how to do it. There are actually several ways to do a tax free Roth conversion, and three very common options are listed below.

After-Tax IRA Contributions

If your traditional IRA is composed only of after-tax (non-deducted) contributions, you can convert those funds over to a Roth IRA without tax consequence.  This is because the funds were taxed before you contributed them to the IRA, and so no tax is due when you convert the funds to a Roth IRA. This often is the case if you have no other traditional IRAs and you’ve made non-deductible contributions to the account (often from income limitations). You can convert these non-deductible contributions from the traditional IRA to a Roth IRA with no tax consequences. The only tax (if this is your only traditional IRA and it only contains non-deductible contributions) is if there is any growth on the contributed funds, such as interest earned or capital gains that have occurred.

The “gotcha” in this is that the IRA must be ONLY non-deducted, after-tax contributions.  Plus this must be the only IRA that you have – see the article: Turns Out You CAN Be A Little Bit Pregnant for more details, including a way around the “Pregnant” Rule.

If you happen to have other IRAs or other, deducted contributions in the traditional IRA, it’s not the end of the world. You’ll just have more tax to pay on the Roth Conversion.

After-Tax Qualified Retirement Plan Contributions

If you happen to have after-tax contributions to a Qualified Retirement Plan (QRP) such as a 401k plan, these can be used for a tax free Roth Conversion if you’ve terminated employment or the retirement plan has terminated. You can do this without having to worry about the “Pregnant” rule I mentioned above.  This is because QRP funds are treated differently, and as such you are allowed to move specific contribution money separate from other contribution money (e.g., pre-tax contributions separate from after-tax contributions).

Also, if you have money in a Roth 401k, it’s not actually considered a conversion but you can rollover your Roth 401k money into a Roth IRA with no tax consequences, as long as your plan allows. Generally this means you have either reached age 59½ (for some plans; many do not allow in-service distributions), or you must have left employment with that employer.

Zero Tax Bracket

If you have no or very low taxable income, that is, if you’re below the 10% tax bracket, any funds that you distribute from your traditional IRA up to the limit – which would be your AGI minus your exemptions and itemized or standard deductions and any tax credits – would be tax free.  Granted, this is likely to be a somewhat small amount for most people in this situation, but for others, such as business owners or farmers with carried-over Net Operating Losses, it could be sizeable.  See the linked article for more information on NOL carryovers and Roth IRA conversions.

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Mid-year estimated payments checkup

estimated payments checkup calculatorAs a retiree, you may have a bit more difficulty determining if your withheld tax throughout the year is going to be enough. This is especially true in 2018, with the new tax tables and rules associated with the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017. For this reason, you may want to do a mid-year estimated payments checkup, to help ensure you’re having enough (but not too much) tax withheld.

If you’re not retired or are retired and still working part-time, you may want to check out the Mid-year withholding checkup article to help make sure you have enough tax withheld.

There are commercial programs available to help you figure this out (check with your tax preparer or tax software), or you can use the IRS Form 1040ES to help you work through an estimated payments checkup. I’ll briefly describe the process below using Form 1040ES.

Estimated payments checkup

Go to the IRS website (www.IRS.gov) and search for Form 1040ES. The form itself includes the instructions for filling out the form, as well as vouchers that you can use to make estimated payments (if needed). This will help you with your mid-year estimated payments checkup.

You’ll need to gather quite a bit of information together for this form. I’ll step you through the process (high level) below, so that you’ll have an idea of everything you’ll need when you start working through the form.

You need to estimate your income for the year. This may include pensions, annuities, required minimum distributions (RMDs) from IRAs, 401k’s and other plans, plus interest, dividends, any rental, partnership or corporate income, and your Social Security benefits. Go ahead and project the total amount that you’ll receive from each source through the end of the tax year. For most of these payments, if they occur monthly you can just multiply the monthly amount by 12. If it’s a quarterly payment, multiply by 4. If it only comes once a year, just project the total amount to the best of your knowledge (use last year’s tax return and documents to help you with this process). Make sure that you count the gross amount, not the net check that you receive after taxes and other deductions!

Next, if you’re having money withheld from any of these payments, go ahead and project that amount for the year as well – just the same as you did with the payments you receive.

You’ll also need to understand a few things about your tax return filing in order to fill out Form 1040ES properly:

  • Filing status
  • Can anyone else claim you as a dependent? Same for your spouse if filing jointly.
  • How many jobs have you worked (or will you work) in 2018? Same for your spouse.
  • Will you or your spouse receive a taxable scholarship or grant in 2018?
  • Are you or your spouse age 65 or older in 2018? Blind?
  • Number of dependents (not including spouse) to claim on your 2018 return.
  • Number of children that will be claimed for child-care expenses, child tax credit, and earned income credit

You’ll need to estimate your deductions next. If you’ve always used the standard deduction in the past, chances are you’ll continue to use the standard deduction in 2018. If you have had circumstances change, such as buying a house, moving to a higher-tax state, you’ve made significant contributions to charity, or you have significant medical expenses (beyond insurance coverage), then you’ll want to go through the exercise of calculating your itemized deductions. The calculator steps you through the process of estimating your taxes, medical expenses, interest paid on mortgages, charitable contributions and other itemized deductions.

When you have all of the above information together, you can work your way through Form 1040ES and calculate any shortfall that you will have in withheld tax. The form is designed to limit your withheld tax to the minimum before a penalty is applied. This means that you only have to withhold 90% of the current year’s tax, or 100% of the previous year’s tax, and your shortfall can be up to $1,000 before a penalty applies to your situation.

Understand that you may owe as much as $1,000 or more in tax when you file your tax return if you follow Form 1040ES to the letter!

Your result will help you to determine what the amount of estimated payments are that you may need to make for the year (if required). You can also make adjustments to withholding on any of your income sources to make up a withholding shortfall, by submitting a new W-4P form to your pension administrator, for example.

Mid-year withholding checkup

This little guy just had a withholding checkup - important to make sure he is having enough tax withheld from his pay.Now that we have a few months’ worth of the new tax tables (from the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017) under our belts, it’s a good idea to do a withholding checkup against your paycheck. A withholding checkup is a common exercise that many people perform to make sure that they are having enough, but not too much, tax withheld throughout the year. You can do a withholding checkup at any point in the year (after at least one paycheck), so feel free to use this process later in the year as you see fit.

Note to retirees: this withholding checkup will not work correctly for you. You will need to review the Mid-year Estimated Payments Checkup to make sure you have the proper amount of tax being withheld from your various sources, and whether or not it is necessary for you to make estimated payments throughout the year.

The good news is that the IRS has a calculator available that can help you do the withholding checkup. If you go to the IRS’ website (www.IRS.gov) and search for “tax withholding”, you will be able to access the Withholding Calculator – or just click the link to go to the Withholding Calculator page directly. Have your most recent pay-stub available when you go to the calculator.

Mid-year withholding checkup

As you work through the calculator, you’ll need to know a few things about your tax return, so it will be handy to have a copy of your 2017 return available (or at least know the answer to the questions below):

  • Filing status
  • Can anyone else claim you as a dependent? Same for your spouse if filing jointly.
  • How many jobs have you worked (or will you work) in 2018? Same for your spouse.
  • Do you have a 401k, cafeteria plan (such as healthcare or child-care) through your employer? Same for spouse.
  • Will you or your spouse receive a taxable scholarship or grant in 2018?
  • Are you or your spouse age 65 or older in 2018? Blind?
  • Number of dependents (not including spouse) to claim on your 2018 return.
  • Number of children that will be claimed for child-care expenses, child tax credit, and earned income credit

You’ll also need the specific information from your pay-stub: gross income, bonuses, deferred income (to a retirement plan), how much is being withheld for income tax (be careful and only count the income tax, not Social Security or Medicare tax, or FICA), and how many pay periods are remaining. For all of this information, you will need the current pay period amount and the total year-to-date amount, as well as how often you are paid, with how many pay periods are remaining. You’ll need to gather this information for each job that you hold or intend to hold through the year.

Next, you’ll add in any non-wage income – such as rental income, interest and dividends, or partnerships and corporation income. You’ll also estimate any reductions to income that you may have, such as deductible contributions to an IRA. If you’re not sure about these numbers (and who could be, this early in the year?) then just use the figures from your 2017 tax return.

After that, you’ll need to estimate your deductions. If you’ve always used the standard deduction in the past, chances are you’ll continue to use the standard deduction in 2018. If you have had circumstances change, such as buying a house, moving to a higher-tax state, you’ve made significant contributions to charity, or you have significant medical expenses (beyond insurance coverage), then you’ll want to go through the exercise of calculating your itemized deductions. The calculator steps you through the process of estimating your taxes, medical expenses, interest paid on mortgages, charitable contributions and other itemized deductions.

The result will show you how you should make changes (if needed) to your W-4 with each employer. If you make these changes, your withholding should be adjusted to fit your income tax needs for the current year.

It is critical that, if you make changes to your W-4 as a result of this withholding checkup, you should come back and re-check again early in the following year to make sure everything is set up correctly for the coming year.

Early Withdrawal from Retirement Plans

Six-twenty is an early withdrawal time.If you are retiring before the “normal” retirement age of 59½ or older, or if you find yourself in need of money, you may need to make an early withdrawal from your retirement plan. An early withdrawal from your retirement plan is not without consequences – there will be taxes for sure, and quite possibly (likely?) penalties (referred to as “additional tax on early withdrawals” below). For exceptions to the early withdrawal penalty for IRAs, see this article. Otherwise, for exceptions to the early withdrawal penalty for a 401k, see this article.

Recently the IRS published Tax Tip 2018-40, which details some items that you need to remember as you consider an early withdrawal from a retirement plan. The actual text of their Tip is below.

Things to Remember when Considering Early Withdrawal from Retirement Plans

Many taxpayers may need to take out money early from their Individual Retirement Account or retirement plan. Doing so, however, can trigger an additional tax on early withdrawals. They would owe this tax on top of other income tax they may have to pay. Here are a few key points to know:

  • Early withdrawals. An early withdrawal is taking a distribution from an IRA or retirement plan before reaching age 59½.
  • Additional tax. Taxpayers who took early withdrawals from an IRA or retirement plan must report them when they file their tax return. They may owe income tax on the amount plus an additional 10 percent tax if it was an early withdrawal.
  • Nontaxable withdrawals. The additional 10 percent tax doesn’t apply to nontaxable withdrawals, such as contributions that taxpayers paid tax on before they put them into the plan.
  • early withdrawal can come with a penaltyRollover. A rollover happens when someone takes cash or other assets from one plan and puts it in another plan. They normally have 60 days to complete a rollover to make it tax-free.
  • Exceptions. There are many exceptions to the additional 10-percent tax. Some of the rules for retirement plans are different from the rules for IRAs.
  • Disaster Relief. Participants in certain disaster areas may have relief from the 10-percent early withdrawal tax on early withdrawals from their retirement accounts.
  • File Form 5329. Taxpayers who took early withdrawals last year may have to file Form 5329,  Additional Taxes on Qualified Plans (including IRAs) and Other Tax-Favored Accounts, with their federal tax returns.

Use IRS e-file. Early withdrawal rules can be complex. IRS e-file can help. It’s the easiest and most accurate way to file a tax return. The tax preparation software that taxpayers use to e-file will pick the right tax forms, do the math and help get the tax benefits they’re due. Seven out of 10 taxpayers qualify to use IRS Free File tax software. Free File is only available through the IRS website.

What Makes Up the Family Maximum Benefit?

This fella is having trouble figuring out what is in his FMB.As reviewed in the article The Family Maximum Benefit (Retirement), there is a maximum amount that can be paid on a particular Social Security record.  As you’re planning for your family’s benefits, it is important to know what is involved in establishing the maximum benefit, as well as what can be impacted by the maximum limit.

What’s Not Included

Maybe it would be easiest to point out a few things that don’t go into the calculation for the Family Maximum limit:

  • Ex-spouse spousal benefits are not included
  • Ex-spouse survivor benefits are not included
  • Any delayed retirement credits on the primary beneficiary’s record are not included
  • Any PIA amount of a dually-entitled spouse (spousal benefits in excess of the recipient’s PIA are included)

So – with those items excluded, that leaves us with the question of what IS included:

What Is Included

Included in calculating the Family Maximum benefit limit would be everything else that wasn’t specifically excluded, based upon the primary recipient’s record:

  • Primary beneficiary’s benefit, up to the Primary Insurance Amount
  • Spousal Benefits for a current spouse (not an ex), but only the amount above the PIA of the recipient
  • Survivor Benefits for the spouse who was married to the primary beneficiary at the date of death
  • Child’s benefits
  • Spouse benefits for a spouse caring for young children under age 16
  • Other beneficiary benefits, including aged parents, other dependents, etc.

What Can Be Impacted by FMB

Once the Family Maximum Benefit amount is calculated, certain benefits can be reduced as a result (if the maximum is breached).  First of all, it’s important to note that those benefits mentioned in the “What’s Not Included” section above are not subject to reduction by the FMB.  In addition, the primary beneficiary’s retirement or disability benefit would also not be reduced by a limit imposed by FMB.

All of the other, secondary benefits, such as survivor benefits by the last-current spouse, spousal benefits, child’s benefits, and other beneficiary benefits can be reduced.  Each benefit is reduced pro-rata depending on the FMB figure that has been developed.

Example of FMB calculation

So let’s work through an example: John, age 70, just filed for his retirement benefit, in the amount of $3,000.  His Primary Insurance Amount (PIA) is $2,273.

John was married twice previously, to Jane first (age 62) and then to Sally (age 63), and each of those marriages lasted more than ten years.  He married his current wife, Celeste (age 30), three years ago and they have newborn triplets.

The family maximum benefit is calculated as follows (2012 figures, the year John reached age 62):

1) 150% of the first $980 = $1,470

2) 272% of the next $435 = $1,183

3) 134% of the next $430 = $576

4) 175% of the remaining PIA ($428) = $749

5) adding these up ($1,470 + $1,183 + $576 + $749) = $3,978 <= this is the FMB limit for John’s record

Now, we know that Jane’s spousal benefit and Sally’s spousal benefit are not included in the FMB.  Additionally, John’s Delayed Retirement Credit ($727) is also not included.  The following benefits are included in determining if the FMB has been reached:

  • John’s PIA of $2,273
  • Celeste’s benefit for caring for the children of $1,136 (half of John’s)
  • Each child’s benefit of $1,136 (x3 = $3,408) (also half)

For a total of $6,817, which is $2,839 more than the FMB.  Since John’s PIA amount cannot be reduced, Celeste’s and the childrens’ benefits will be reduced at a rate of 63% less than their original amounts – to $426 for each of the benefits.  (That calculation was done by taking the full FMB, subtracting John’s PIA, and then splitting up the remaining amount pro rata among the other beneficiaries.)

Now, if Celeste was at or older than her FRA, the computation would be adjusted based on Celeste’s benefit based on her own record. With the example above, let’s say Celeste is 66 (her FRA) and she has a PIA of $1,000 based on her own lifetime earnings. This is because Celeste is dually-entitled – first to her own benefit of $1,000, and second to a spousal excess benefit of $136. The first $1,000 of benefits that Celeste can receive are not counted toward the family maximum benefit. In fact, her “excess” spousal benefit amount of $136 is subtracted from the total of family maximum benefits (right after John’s PIA), and the remainder is split among the 3 children.

  • Original FMB – $3,978
  • Minus John’s PIA – $3,978 – $2,273 = $1,705
  • Minus Celeste’s excess Spousal Benefit – $1,705 – $136 = $1,579
  • Divided among the 3 children – $1,579 ÷ 3 = $523

So each child receives $523, Celeste receives $1,136, and John gets his DRC-enhanced benefit of $3,000.

The Family Maximum Benefit (Retirement)

family dinner by eyeliamWhen a worker is receiving retirement benefits and/or members of his family are also receiving benefits based upon the retirement benefits, such as via spousal benefits, benefits for children, or other family members benefits, there is a maximum amount of benefit that can be distributed in total.  (There is a separate maximum benefit computation for disability benefits, which we’ll cover in another article.)

How the Family Maximum Benefit is Computed

When computing the Family Maximum Benefit (FMB), the Social Security Administration falls back to its old habits of using a very convoluted formula, similar to the formula for computing the Primary Insurance Amount (PIA).  The formula starts with the PIA of the worker whose record is being used to provide these benefits. The PIA is then broken into four separate portions based upon Bend Points (these are not the same Bend Points as those used in determining the retirement benefit or PIA itself).

The Bend Points for FMB are based upon when they were first calculated in 1979.  At that time, the Average Wage Index (AWI) was $9,779.44 for 1977 (remember, the AWI is always two years behind) – and for 2016 the AWI is $48,642.15.  Dividing the 2016 AWI by the 1977 AWI gives us a factor of 4.9739 to compute the Bend Points for 2018.

The original Bend Points were: $230, $332, and $433.  Multiplying these Bend Points by our factor of 4.9739 gives us Bend Points of $1,144, $1,651, and $2,154.  These are rounded to the nearest dollar.

Computation for the Current Year

So here’s how we use those bend points to determine the FMB, for a worker who becomes age 62 or dies in 2018 before attaining age 62:

1) 150% of the first $1,144 of the PIA, plus
2) 272% of the amount between $1,144 and $1,651 of the PIA, plus
3) 134% of the amount between $1,651 and $2,154 of the PIA, plus
4) 175% of the amount above $2,154 of the PIA.

The total of the four amounts is then rounded to the next lower multiple of $.10 if it’s not already a multiple of $.10.

Here’s an example:

A worker age 62 with a PIA of $2,200 has a FMB calculated as follows:

1) 150% times $1,144 = $1,716
2) 272% times $507 ($1,651 minus $1,144) = $1,379.04
3) 134% times $503 ($2,154 minus $1,651) = $674.02
4) 175% times $46 ($2,200 minus $2,154) = $80.50

Adding these together ($1,716 + $1,379.04 + $674.02 + $80.50) equals $3,849.56, rounded down to a FMB of $3,849.50 for this particular worker in 2018.

Photo by eyeliam

Volatility is a Two-Way Street

In many cases, whenever we think of volatility we think negatively. Try it yourself. Think of the word volatility and say it out loud. What thoughts, words, or images pop into your head? Bad news? Market losses? Losing money? The color red?

The point is that we tend to give volatility a bad rap – and rightfully so. Generally, the word is thrown at us during periods of when the market, and our investments, lose value. Volatility, however, works both ways. It’s also present when the market and our investments are doing well. We just don’t call it volatility. We call it returns, gains, appreciation, a bull market, etc.

The point is to expect volatility – good or bad. It’s part of investing in capital markets. We need to understand that just because our portfolios are doing well – doesn’t mean volatility is absent. Volatility is what helps produce long-term expected returns. It’s how we’re compensated for investing outside of riskless assets.

However, if volatility – good or bad – has an individual running for the antacids, then it’s generally a good sign that individual shouldn’t be invested in capital markets at all. Or, if an investor has a short-term time frame for a goal, such as an emergency fund or saving for a car or down payment for a house, volatility, while giving the potential for a higher return, also means the potential for losses – something to avoid for short-term goals.

Investors can manage volatility through proper asset allocation and diversification. In other words, investors should expect to lose and gain throughout their investing time-frame. Proper asset allocation and diversification can ensure that an investor experiences the volatility most appropriate for their risk tolerance and time horizon.

Social Security Full Retirement Age – Explained

full retirement age has nothing to do with a lone tree in a field.The Full Retirement Age, or FRA (gotta love Social Security for their acronyms!), is a key figure for the individual who is planning to receive Social Security retirement benefits.  Back in the olden days, when Social Security was first dreamed up, Full Retirement Age was always age 65.

Then, in 1983 the Social Security Act was amended, and one of the significant changes was to increase the FRA.  Beginning with folks born in 1938, the FRA would be increased (see table below).  And for folks born in 1960 and beyond, FRA is age 67 (as of this writing!) but don’t expect this figure to remain constant.  Increasing the Full Retirement Age is one way to reduce the cost of the overall program, which is a constant concern for the government since this program amounts to more than half a trillion dollars in payout every year.

What’s interesting is that, even though the FRA has been increasing, the “early” retirement and “late” retirement ages have remained the same, at 62 and 70, respectively.  I suspect at some stage those ages may be adjusted as well, all in the name of fiscal responsibility…

Year of Birth FRA
1937 or before 65
1938 65 and 2 months
1939 65 and 4 months
1940 65 and 6 months
1941 65 and 8 months
1942 65 and 10 months
1943-1954 66
1955 66 and 2 months
1956 66 and 4 months
1957 66 and 6 months
1958 66 and 8 months
1959 66 and 10 months
1960 or later 67

Note: persons born on January 1 of any year should refer to the FRA for the previous year, because when you’re born on the first of any month, SSA determines your birth month to be the month prior to your actual birth date.

Photo by Jule_Berlin