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Book Review: How to Give Financial Advice to Couples

How to Give Financial Advice to CouplesSubtitle: Essential Skills for Balancing High-Net-Worth Clients’ Needs

This book, by Kathleen Burns Kingsbury, is a very good book for all financial advisors to read – even if your clientele isn’t “high-net-worth” clients.  I’ve had my share of client-couples who had difficulty in reconciling financial concerns with one another, and (as you probably know) the number of digits on the couple’s bottom line net worth has nothing to do with it.

Author Kingsbury, a wealth psychology expert, has a great deal of experience and knowledge on the subject to share.  She covers the issues that couples face when dealing with monetary subjects, which can range from having opposite but complementary skills and mindsets regarding money to having basic problems in dealing with conflict with one another.  Every couple has areas where they’re not completely in concert with one another – it would be really unusual if everything about a couple fit like a hand in a glove.

These conflicts, no matter how large or small, can cause difficulties in many areas, and financial dealings are no exception.  In fact, it is in financial dealings that these conflicting viewpoints are often manifested (among other places), since dealing with financial issues is an emotional thing for most folks. Being such an emotional area of our lives, when big decisions need to be made it can be very difficult to come together on a compromise.  For many folks, the worldview about money that they have learned over time from family and friends isn’t very helpful – again, because of the emotional nature of money.  Oftentimes in families monetary issues are dealt with in secret and are the source of conflict. The  messages that are passed on to children are not generally useful when the child becomes an adult and needs to deal with similar issues.

This is where the advisor comes in – because, during the course of working out financial plans there are many decisions to be made, client-couples often find it difficult to come to a decision. And if they do come to a decision, it’s often one partner exerting his or her will over the other – and the other partner may exercise his or her learned reaction to the situation.  This could mean acquiescence, stonewalling, or even actively sabotaging the process.  To be successful, the advisor must recognize when a conflict exists and help the couple to work through it.

Ms. Kingsbury then uses the latter half of the book to show how an advisor can help the couple in a situations like this.  She draws on her own experiences with many, many couples through the years, as well as on her own personal experiences in her life.  The examples are excellent illustrations to help the advisor/reader to understand how to help the couple work out their issues.

I recommend this book for any financial advisor – regardless of the nature of your practice, you’re dealing with situations of conflict among couples, it can’t be avoided.  How you deal with these situations depends a lot on your own background – if you don’t have a lot of experience in successfully dealing with couple conflict successfully, this book can be a great help.  With Kathleen Burns Kingsbury’s guidance, you have a much better chance to help couples to deal with the issues and wind up with better results on the long run.  Otherwise, if the advisor doesn’t deal with the conflict, all the effort involved in putting plans together is wasted.

The above book review is part of a series of reviews that I am doing in an arrangement with McGraw-Hill Professional Publishing, where MH sends me books with the only requirement being that I read the book and write a review – like it or not.  If you find the information in this review useful, let me (and McGraw-Hill) know!

You won’t regret it, I promise!

regrets

regrets (Photo credit: mayeesherr. (away))

I often have opportunity to speak to young folks who are just starting out with their retirement accounts – this usually happens when we’re looking at ways to reduce taxes, primarily, so we start looking at IRAs and diverting income via 401(k) accounts.  One of the things I point out is that this is an activity that you aren’t likely to look back on in 20 years and say “Gee, I sure wish I hadn’t saved all that money!”  We may have many things we look back on in our lives and wish we hadn’t done them, but I think you’ll agree that saving is rarely in that category.

So take the encouragement of my fellow blogging brethren and sistren (you betcha sistren’s a word, regardless of WP’s spell-checker!) and put aside at least 1% more of your income into your savings, starting right now.  You won’t regret it, I promise.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

Are You Part of The 1%? by Financial Fiduciaries

What’s the Worst Thing That Could Happen? by Dana Anspach, @moneyover55

Save just one percent more by Doug Nordman, @TheMilitaryGuid

1% a Small Number with Big Implications by Roger Wohlner, @rwohlner

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Social Security Bend Points for 2014

"The Bend"

“The Bend” (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When the Social Security Administration announced the Cost of Living Adjustment (COLA) for 2014, this also allowed for calculation of the bend points for 2014.

Bend points are the portions of your average income (Average Indexed Monthly Earnings – AIME) in specific dollar amounts that are indexed each year, based upon an obscure table called the Average Wage Index (AWI) Series.  They’re called bend points because they represent points on a graph of your AIME graphed by inclusion in calculating the PIA.

If you’re interested in how Bend Points are used, you can see the article on Primary Insurance Amount, or PIA.  Here, however, we’ll go over how Bend Points are calculated each year.  To understand this calculation, you need to go back to 1979, the year of the Three Mile Island disaster, the introduction of the compact disc and the Iranian hostage crisis.  According to the AWI Series, in 1979 the Social Security Administration placed the AWI figure for 1977 at $9,779.44 – AWI figures are always two years in arrears, so for example, the AWI figure used to determine the 2014 bend points is from 2012.

With the AWI figure for 1977, it was determined that the first bend point for 1979 would be set at $180, and the second bend point at $1,085.  Now that we know these two numbers, we can jump back to 2012’s AWI Series figure, which is $44,321.67.  It all becomes a matter of a formula now:

Current year’s AWI Series divided by 1977’s AWI figure, times the bend points for 1979 equals your current year bend points

So here is the math for 2014’s bend points:

$44,321.67 / $9,779.44 = 4.5321

4.5321 * $180 = $815.78, which is rounded up to $816 – this is the first bend point

4.5321 * $1,085 = $4,917.32, rounded down to $4,917 – this is the second bend point

These bend points are then used to calculate your Primary Insurance Amount, or PIA.  With your Average Indexed Monthly Earnings (AIME) figure, we take the first $816 and multiply by 90%.  The amount between $816 and $4,917 is then multiplied by 32%.  Any amount above $4,917 is multiplied by 15%.  These figures are then added together, and the result is your PIA.

Now that we have the bend points, we also know what the maximum reduction for Windfall Elimination Provision (WEP) will be for 2014: it’s equal to 50% of the first bend point.  So, if you’re subject to WEP reduction of your benefits, the maximum amount that your benefit can be reduced for 2014 is $408 – half of the first bend point.

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Add 1% More to Your Savings

saving and retirement

saving and retirement (Photo credit: 401(K) 2013)

Savings rates in America are really not what they should be.  Studies have shown that, in order to achieve the goal of replacing 80% of your average pre-retirement income you should be saving at a rate around 17.5%.  This doesn’t necessarily mean that 17.5% is the right number for everyone, because pensions and Social Security can help out in replacing some of your income in retirement.  But the average savings rate for all Americans is something just south of 5% – so we can definitely do a better job.  So make the effort to apply at least 1% more to your savings rate this November.  It certainly can’t hurt!

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

1% a Small Number with Big Implications by Roger Wohlner, @rwohlner

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Bloggers Are Encouraging Adding 1% More to Your Savings Rate

English: Chart of United States Personal Savin...

Chart of United States Personal Savings Rate from 1960-2010. Data source: FRED, Federal Reserve Economic Data, Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis: Personal Saving Rate [PSAVERT] ; U.S. Department of Labor: Bureau of Labor Statistics; accessed August 14, 2010. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In November we financially-oriented bloggers have banded together to encourage folks to increase their retirement savings rate by at least 1% more than the current rate.  It’s a small step, but it will pay off for you in the long run.  Given the poor level of savings rate (less than 5%) these days, even this small step will be a big boost for many people’s savings.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

The Journey of $1 Million Dollars Begins with 1% by Richard Feight, @RFeight

Give Yourself A Raise by Ben Rugg, @BRRCPA

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Types of Annuities

 

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Last week I explained a bit about annuities and am following up this week on the different types of annuities and way to contribute.

When a person is contributing to an annuity they are building or increasing the number of accumulation units they buy. As the money in the account builds so does the number of accumulation units. During the payout phase the accumulation units convert into annuity units. The number of annuity units remains the same for the remainder of the annuitant’s lifetime.

When it comes to annuities there are a few different kinds that are available. Potential buyers can choose from variable annuities and fixed annuities. Variable annuities allow the policy holder to contribute premiums and then have those premiums allocated to different sub-accounts that invest in various stock and bond mutual funds. The value of the annuity goes up and down with the general fluctuations of the market and will vary depending on the type of funds the annuity is invested in (stock mutual funds will generally gyrate more than their bond counterparts).

When variable annuities start their payout the annuitant is not guaranteed a constant amount to be paid out. The value of the payout may change depending on the value of the annuity units that wax and wane according to market conditions.

Fixed annuities are just that. They pay a fixed interest rate, often guaranteed and are generally more conservative. The upside is that they will not fluctuate as much as a variable annuity; however, they may not keep pace with inflation – depending on the interest rate guaranteed in the contract.

Variable annuities are generally better suited for those looking to outpace inflation over time and are willing to accept more investment risk in order to achieve higher growth.

Fixed annuities are generally better suited for those who are looking for a fixed, guaranteed rate and are ok with slow, steady growth.

Next week, we’ll look at the expenses in annuities (M&E charges, surrender charges, and other expenses) and look at some pros and cons of where they may and may not make sense for a client.

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Social Security Figures Increase for 2014

English: Cardpunch operations at U.S. Social S...

This is a picture of a few of the hundreds of cardpunch operators SSA employed throughout the late 1930s and into the 1950s to maintain Social Security records in the days before the advent of computers.(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Recently the Social Security Administration released the updated figures for 2014, including the wage base, earnings limits, and the increase to benefits.

For 2014, the wage base for Social Security will rise to $117,000.  This is the maximum amount of W2 wages that are subject to the 6.2% employer- and employee-paid Social Security tax.  This amount represents an increase of $3,300 over the wage base of $113,700 in 2013.

In addition to that increase, benefits to eligible recipients of Social Security retirement will increase by 1.5% in 2014.  This is slightly less than the 1.7% increase to benefits in 2013.  This brings the average monthly benefit for all retired workers up by $19, to$1,294 in 2014.  For the average couple who are both receiving Social Security benefits, the COLA increase is $31 per month, for an average benefit of $2,111 in 2014.

Likewise, there was an increase announced to the earnings limits for Social Security benefits.  When receiving Social Security benefits at during ages 62 through 65, you are allowed to earn up to $15,480 in 2014 before having to forfeit a portion of those Social Security benefits. This is an increase of $360 over the limit of $15,120 for 2013.  For every $2 over the earnings limit, the beneficiary forfeits $1 of Social Security benefits.

In the year that the beneficiary will reach age 66 (but before his or her 66th birthday) the earnings limit for 2014 is increased to $41,400 (up from $40,080 in 2013).  For every $3 earned above that limit, $1 is withheld from your benefits until you reach age 66.  After age 66 there is no earnings limit.

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November is “Add 1% More to Your Savings” Month

November

November (Photo credit: Cape Cod Cyclist)

That’s right, we unofficially declared November to be “Add 1% More to Your Savings” month.  So you can add that to the month-long observances like:

  • No-shave November
  • International Drum Month
  • Sweet Potato Awareness Month
  • and many more (see the list at Wikipedia)

In November we encourage folks to increase their retirement savings rate by at least 1% more than the current rate.  It’s a small step, but it will pay off for you in the long run.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

The 1 Percent Solution by John Davis, @MentorCapitalMg

Friday Financial Tidbit-What increasing your retirement contributions 1% can do for your retirement account by Jonathan White, @JWFinCoaching

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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Flex Spending “Use it or Lose it” is a Thing of the Past

Prescription frappuccino

Prescription (Photo credit: quinn.anya)

If you have a Flex Spending Account (FSA) for healthcare expenses through your employer, you are familiar with the “use it or lose it” concept.  Each year during December, it’s a mad dash to get that last-minute eye exam, or fill prescriptions, or what-have-you to use up the Flex Spending money before the end of the year.  That tradition will, for many folks, be a thing of the past if their employers adopt the carryover rule now allowed by IRS.

Traditionally, with a Flex Spending Account (FSA) for healthcare expenses you arrange with your employer to withhold a certain amount of money out of each paycheck and then as you incur expenses for healthcare throughout the year, you can be reimbursed for those expenses up to the amount of your annual withholding for FSA.  The money withheld for the FSA is pre-tax, so it’s to your advantage to take part in such a plan if you know you’ll have medical expenses. Social Security and Medicare tax is taken out before FSA money is deducted, however.

And then, if you haven’t used all of your FSA money by the end of the year, you forfeit access to the money.  Some, in fact many, employers have a 2½ month grace period, allowing participants to claim healthcare expenditures against the FSA up to March 15 of the following year.

Recently the IRS made a change to the “use it or lose it” rule, allowing a participant in a FSA to carryover up to $500 of unused funds to the following year.  Employers must make an amendment to their FSA plan in order to allow this – it’s not automatically available.  But if your employer does amend their plan by the end of 2013, you could carryover unused funds up to $500 into 2014.  The carryover is not accumulative – meaning, if you carryover $500 from 2013 to 2014, you can’t carryover an additional $500 (for a total of $1,000) into 2015.

The ease of rules for FSA does not apply to Flex Spending Accounts for family care expenses, however.  This is a similar account where the pre-tax money is used to pay for childcare or adult-dependent care expenses that are not health-related.

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C’mon America! Increase your savings rate by 1% more!

English: "Joan of Arc saved France--Women...

lithograph(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This November we’re encouraging folks to increase their retirement savings rate by at least 1% more than the current rate.  It’s a small step, but it will pay off for you in the long run.

Below is the list of my fellow bloggers who have written articles showing ways that you can start to increase your savings rate, as well as showing what the benefits can be.  Thanks to everyone who has participated so far – and watch for more articles in the weeks to come!

THE 1% MORE BLOGGING PROJECT by Robert Flach, @rdftaxpro

A Simple Strategy to Maximize Open Enrollment by Jacob Kuebler, @Jakekuebler

Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1% by Jim Blankenship, @BlankenshipFP

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The Other Life Insurance – Annuities

old man

The last few weeks I have been writing about the more conventional form of life insurance that most people are familiar with when I say ‘life insurance’ – which is protection against a premature death.

The other life insurance is that which protects your from living too long – and that insurance is the annuity.

Over the years annuities have gotten a bad rap – and rightfully so. Like life insurance, annuities are generally sold to the public via a sales force of licensed agents. In most cases, they are not the right vehicle for the individual (I know I am setting the blog up to receive the thunderous rebuttals) but there may be cases where an annuity makes sense.  The other reason annuities get a bad rap is because of the pure insurance (longevity) feature that they provide – especially pure life annuities.

A pure life annuity is simply a guaranteed income stream that lasts as long as the person’s life the annuity is based off of – called the annuitant. The downside to this annuity is that once the annuity stream has started (called annuitization); if the annuitant dies, he or she forfeits the money to the insurance company. This is why these annuities pay the most. The annuitant assumes most of the risk. They could make a payment or two and then die.

This concept is not a bad thing. Risk pooling as it is officially called is the concept of many individuals sharing in the risk of their given pool. The same concept is found in auto and home insurance. Most of us will go our entire lives without making a claim for our home burning down, but we are part of the pool that insures those people whose homes do burn down. Likewise with annuity risk pools. Those who die early pay for those who live too long.

A similar comparison can be made with Social Security – arguably a form of an annuity. A single individual could go their entire life paying into the system, retire, and then die after receiving only a few payments.

Folks interested in annuity or yet, folks that are being shown that they should be interested in an annuity need to understand that first and foremost, it’s an insurance product. This isn’t a bad thing, but it needs to be disclosed. Once you have an understanding that it is an insurance product, ask yourself, “What am I insuring?” The answer to this question is your longevity and not running out of money. Another question to ask is “Do I need an annuity right now?” The answer is that it depends on your age and what need regarding income in retirement.

Generally speaking, the younger you are, the less you need an annuity. There are plenty of other tax-favored vehicles (no, not life insurance) to build wealth over time. The older you are – then it depends. If you’re going to be receiving Social Security as well as a pension (another form of annuity) then I would argue no, as part of your retirement is already insurance against you living too long via Social Security and the pension.

Over the next few weeks I’ll explain the pro and cons of annuities. I’ll dive into expenses, add-ons (called riders), and different forms of annuities to be aware of and beware. I’ll also explain when it is generally unwise to buy an annuity and when it may make sense.

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Retirement Plan Contribution Limits for 2014

United Way tax prep volunteers help hard-worki...

United Way tax prep volunteers help hard-working families avoid tax prep fees (Photo credit: United Way of Greater Cincinnati)

The IRS recently published the new contribution limits for various retirement plans for 2014.  These limits are indexed to inflation, and as such sometimes they do not increase much year over year, and sometimes they don’t increase at all. This year we saw virtually no increases for most all contribution amounts, but as usual the income limits increased for most types of account.

IRAs

The annual contribution limit for IRAs (both traditional and Roth) remains at $5,500 for 2014.  The “catch up” contribution amount, for folks age 50 or over, also remains at $1,000.

The income limits for traditional (deductible) IRAs increased slightly from last year: for singles covered by a retirement plan, your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI) must be less than $60,000 for a full deduction; phased deduction is allowed up to an AGI of $70,000.  This is an increase of $1,000 over the limits for last year.  For married folks filing jointly who are covered by a retirement plan by his or her employer, the AGI limit is increased to $96,000, phased out at $116,000, which is also a $1,000 increase over last year’s limits.  For married folks filing jointly who are not covered by a workplace retirement plan but are married to someone who is covered, the AGI limit for deduction is $181,000, phased out at $191,000; this is an increase of $3,000 over 2013’s limits.

The income limits for Roth IRA contributions also increased: single folks with an AGI less than $114,000 can make a full contribution, and this is phased out up to an AGI of $129,000, an increase of $2,000 at each end of the range.  For married folks filing jointly, the AGI limits are $181,000 to $191,000 for Roth contributions, up by $3,000 over 2013.

401(k), 403(b), 457 and SARSEP plans

For the traditional employer-based retirement plans, the amount of deferred income allowed has remained the same as well. For 2014, employees are allowed to defer up to $17,500 with a catch up amount of $5,500 for those over age 50 (all figures unchanged from 2013).  If you happen to work for a governmental agency that offers a 457 plan in addition to a 401(k) or 403(b) plan, you can double up and defer as much as $35,000 plus catch-ups, for a total of $46,000.

The limits for contributions to Roth 401(k) and Roth 403(b) are the same as traditional plans – the limit is for all plans of that type in total.  You are allowed to contribute up to the limit for either a Roth plan or a traditional plan, or a combination of the two.

SIMPLE

Savings Incentive Match Plans for Employees (SIMPLE) deferral limit also remains unchanged at $12,000 for 2014.  The catch up amount remains the same as 2013 at $2,500, for folks at or older than age 50.

Saver’s Credit

The income limits for receiving the Saver’s Credit for contributing to a retirement plan increased for 2014.  The AGI limit for married filing jointly increased from $59,000 to $60,000; for singles the new limit is $30,000 (up from $29,500); and for heads of household, the AGI limit is $45,000, an increase from $44,250.  The saver’s credit rewards low and moderate income taxpayers who are working hard and need more help saving for retirement.  The table below provides more details on how the saver’s credit works (Form 8880 is not updated yet for 2014, so the figures for the 50% and 20% limits will likely change):

Filing Status/Adjusted Gross Income for 2014
Amount of Credit Married Filing Jointly Head of Household Single/Others
50% of first $2,000 deferred $0 to $35,500 $0 to $26,625 $0 to $17,750
20% of first $2,000 deferred $35,501 to $38,500 $26,626 to $28,875 $17,751 to $19,250
10% of first $2,000 deferred $38,501 to $60,000 $28,876 to $45,000 $19,251 to $30,000
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Annual Gift Tax Exclusion Amount Remains the Same for 2014

Greenfleet Gift Certificates

Greenfleet Gift Certificates (Photo credit: Greenfleet Australia)

All individuals have the opportunity to give gifts annually to any person, and as many persons as they wish, without having to file a gift tax return.  For 2013, the amount of the annual exclusion is $14,000; it remains the same for 2014.

This means that anyone can give a gift of up to $14,000 to any person for any reason without worrying about possible gift tax implications.  A married couple can double this amount to $28,000.

In 2014, this annual exclusion amount will remain the same at $14,000 ($28,000 for couples).

For amounts given in excess of the annual exclusion amount, every individual has a lifetime exclusion amount, against which the excess gifts are credited.  For 2013, the lifetime exclusion amount is $5,250,000.  For 2014, the lifetime exclusion amount for giving is increased to $5,340,000.  These are the same exclusion amounts as for estates in 2014.

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Call All Bloggers! 2nd Annual 1% More Blogging Project

ceramic piggy bank

I’m sure that I’m not alone in the financial planning world with my concern about the rate of saving toward retirement across this great land.  Recent figures have shown that we Americans are not doing as this year as last, at a 4.6% rate versus 5% last year when we started this project. This is a dismal figure when you consider how most folks are coming up way short when they want to retire.  Just like last year in November, I thought maybe something could be done to encourage an increase in savings – if only by 1%, this can be a significant step for lots of folks.  November is the perfect time to do this, as most corporations are going through the annual benefit election cycle, so the 401(k) (or 403(b), 457, or other savings plan) is right at the forefront for many folks.

I’m proposing that all financially-oriented bloggers sharpen up their electronic pencils and write a column to encourage folks to increase their 401(k) savings by at least 1% more than last year.  I’d suggest taking a new look at this situation, perhaps suggesting ways that people can free up money to devote toward savings, for example.  I know you folks have a lot of great ideas, so don’t let my lame suggestions limit you!

In order to keep it oriented toward the benefits enrollment period for many companies, we should probably produce these articles between now and Thanksgiving.  Of course, most folks can make an increase to savings at any time, but while employees are looking at benefit options is a good time to strike while the iron’s hot.  If you’re interested in joining this action, send me a note at jim@blankenshipfinancial.com and let me know when you’ve posted your article.  I’ll keep a list of all of the articles with links on a blog post at my blog – this way anyone who’s looking for ideas on how to increase savings can find a multitude of ways to do so.

I have started things off this morning with my first post about saving more: Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1%.  I’ll continue to produce the list of articles every Monday and Friday during November – keep checking back!  I’ll also be tweeting about the project using the tag #1%more – keep it moving!

Thanks in advance for your help!

jb

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Take a Small Step: Increase Your Savings by 1%

saving and spending

saving and spending (Photo credit: 401(K) 2013)

As savers, we Americans are not doing a good job.  We’re improving (according to recent data), but still way behind what we should be saving.  But it doesn’t have to be that way – you can take small steps to increase your savings right away, and it doesn’t have to hurt.

The Bureau of Economic Analysis recently reported that we are saving at a rate of around 4.6% of disposable personal income, an increase of 0.1% over the prior month.  On a per-person basis, that works out to about $1,831 saved per month, or just short of $22,000 per year.  Since we know that very, very few people are exactly average (by definition most people are going to be something above or below the average), what concerns me is that even those who are a bit above the average are still not saving enough.  And woe to those who are saving at a rate far below the average.

The math works it out – say for example you’re a bit above average, saving 5% on a disposable income that is a bit above the average, say $60,000 per year (the simple average annual disposable income per person works out to just less than $40,000 per year).

Saving 5% over your working life of 40 years will result in a nest egg of $362,400 (inflation-corrected, earning a rate of 5% annually).  Even at the most optimistic of withdrawal rate of 6% per year, this amounts to $21,744 – not exactly the 80% of income most folks hope to have for retirement income.

Given that most likely more than half of all Americans are below the average savings rate, you can see my cause for concern.  If we don’t get started increasing our overall savings rates, it’s going to be a bleak existence in retirement (ask anyone who’s still working past age 65 because he or she has to how that feels).

I realize that saving more isn’t easy – after all, we have so many things we have to pay for, and the cost of all these things is increasing all the time.  The problem is that we need to make some decisions about what’s critical to pay for: is it really more important to have a membership at the gym that you only go to once a month, or would you like to be able to afford to pay for your accustomed meals when you’re retired?  Or do you really need the expanded satellite TV package?  If you pay attention to what you’re paying out each month and weigh that against paying for the basics in retirement, it’s not as hard of a decision.  If you’ve got other great ideas for reducing expenses and increasing savings, leave a comment below – I’d love to pass them along to everyone else.

Increasing savings just a bit – say 1% – would only result in decreasing the example above average person’s monthly net disposable income by $50.  Surely you can find somewhere in your budget to set aside an extra fifty bucks!  And the resulting 6% withdrawal could be increased to just over $26,000 – an increase of 18%.

Of course, that’s still a small portion of the current take-home of this above average person, but it’s an improvement! So take that small step – start saving an extra 1% more right now, there’s no time like the present!

Note: the figures I use above for the example are extremely over-simplified, using a simple average per-person income rate for all Americans (estimated at 317 million), and the reported figures from BEA (the Bureau of Economic Analysis) to build my example.

In case you’re wondering, in order to replace 80% of your income at the more sustainable 4% withdrawal rate, you’d need to set aside an average of approximately 17.5% of your disposable income over your 40-year working career.  This means every year, not just the later years of your career.  So if you’re late getting started, you need to save, save, save, with both hands, in order to catch up and have enough set aside to provide yourself with a retirement income that will keep you going. 

Of course, if you have a pension, that will factor into your available funds in retirement, as will Social Security.  But neither of these sources should be considered guaranteed, nor should they be your only source of income.  In today’s world, you have to fend for yourself!

Best wishes to you – if you have additional ideas on how to find money to put into savings, leave a comment below.  We’d love to hear your ideas.

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Life Insurance is Not an Investment

Traveling Salesman

Last week I seemed to cause a bit of a kerfuffle when I wrote about which life insurance may or may not be appropriate for the general consumer. For the readers that sent in emails and comments – thank you! It’s much appreciated and we enjoy the feedback.

Twitter was also flitting and chirping with the commotion. In particular, the discussion really narrowed down to, and most of the comments we received were regarding the comment I made on life insurance not being an investment.

And that’s still true. It’s not. Now there are plenty of people that will argue with me that it is an investment for this reason or that. For this writing I am hoping to explain and to clarify what I meant as an investment.

From a pure investment standpoint – meaning saving and investing one’s money for retirement and or college or just saving and investing for capital growth; life insurance is not this type of an investment. Accounting for the actual costs of insurance, policy fees, expense ratios of the underlying funds (as seen in variable life and variable universal life), surrender charges (lack of liquidity) and agent commissions life insurance will almost always underperform an outside, well diversified, low-cost investing strategy like indexing or a passive approach in mutual funds or ETFs.

The reason why is in variable policies, a person has access to the markets as well, but pays a much higher cost for that access.

Another consideration is whether or not a person actually needs life insurance. If there is a life insurance need, term is generally the best bet. If there is no life insurance need – meaning there is no need to protect against a premature death – then no life insurance is needed. None.

Finally, I heard more and more about the “investment” in one’s family and the “investment” in one’s peace of mind. This is usually the dogma of a slick salesperson, trained to use key words and emotional triggers to induce an unknowing client to buy their more expensive product. And yes, one could argue those are excellent investments – but it wasn’t what I meant and I’m certain most readers, if not all understood that.

It would be like me saying food is an investment for my retirement. I need it to live to retirement and to survive throughout retirement. It sounds good, makes sense, but is a complete misuse of the word.

Food is food.

Life insurance is life insurance…

…not an investment.

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NUA Allocation Twist – Not as Easy as it Looks

NUA ALONE

NUA ALONE (Photo credit: NAPARAZZI)

I’ve written much about the Net Unrealized Appreciation (NUA) treatment for company stock in a 401(k) plan – this is the provision that allows you to pull out company stock as part of a full distribution from the plan and get favorable tax treatment for the gain on the stock.  More about NUA can be found in this article about Net Unrealized Appreciation Treatment.

One of the factors in that article speaks to a special way to allocate the basis (original cost) of the stock.  Specifically, if handled correctly, the ordinary income tax on the NUA move can be minimized or eliminated, and the capital gains treatment maximized.

However. (As you know, there’s always a however in life!)

The problem with this move is that you absolutely must get the 401(k) administrator to go along with your plan – in order to make sure that the 1099R generated by your distribution correctly describes how you’ve allocated the basis.  If not, the strategy depends entirely on your own word and record-keeping, which I personally would not want to have as my only basis if the IRS disagrees with you on the applicability of the law to your actions.

I’ve spoken to quite a few folks who have looked into this, hoping to take advantage of the way I’ve described it and minimize or avoid tax altogether.  It seems that, at least among all those I’ve heard about, 401(k) administrators as a group don’t like to take direction from their participants.

Either that or they don’t want to do anything out of the ordinary (this is the more likely reason, in my opinion).  I can’t say that I blame them – there’s no benefit in it to them.  Even when confronted with the rules and the law that allow this move, I’ve not heard from any that have gone along with it yet.  (If you have gone down this path successfully, please let me know – leave a comment below! I’d love to hear of successes with this component of the law.)

So, unfortunately if you’re hoping to use the special allocation of basis option, I’m in your court, but expect to run into some push-back.  Although the option seems to be completely valid, don’t count on getting to use it.

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What is the Best Life Policy to Buy?

Puffins of Cape Deceit

When researching the appropriate life insurance to buy individuals and couples are faced with a myriad of choices. Term, whole life, universal life, variable universal life are just a few of the policies that may be presented, if not sold, to the person.

So which one is best? Generally, it depends.

If someone is looking for the best bang for their buck and wants to purchase the most insurance for the least amount of money term is going to be the best bet. Term is cheap, builds no cash value, and is generally used if someone or couples have a time frame where they need insurance (30 year term for a 30 year mortgage or 30 year term until retirement age). Generally those that are interested in term know that it will run out, but are hoping to “self-insure” their death at retirement since in theory they’ll have saved enough in assets that if one spouse dies, the other can live off of the assets accumulated. Proponents of term will buy term and invest the difference of what the premium would have been for a permanent policy such as whole life.

Whole life is a permanent product and is generally more expensive than term. For the premium you pay you’ll get permanent coverage for life and the policy will build some cash value as you age and keep paying premiums. Whole life will typically pay either a guaranteed interest rate (often 2-4%) or dividends based on the insurance company’s investment experience. Proponents of whole life will argue that it’s a forced way to save as those that say buy term and invest the difference rarely do.

Polices like universal life and variable universal life offer premium flexibility which says a policyholder can vary the amount of premiums paid any given month. Variable universal life, or VUL, will also let the policy owner direct the investments or cash value of the policy in different subaccounts that invest in stock and bond mutual funds. In a VUL, the cash value can fluctuate and interest is not guaranteed as it will rise and fall according to how the underlying investments do.

So which policy is best? Admittedly, I am biased toward term. As a financial planner I believe in the buy term and invest the difference philosophy. After all, shouldan’t a good planner know where to invest the rest and help the client save the difference? I will also admit that I own whole life – not on me – but on my children. This is to protect their insurability. Should any of them ever fall ill and become uninsurable in the future, they’ll always have their whole life policies.

From a planner standpoint, caveat emptor – buyer beware. Several permanent policies have long, hefty surrender charges. This means that for the first 10 to 15 years of the policy if you surrender it or cancel it, you’ll get less than 100% of your cash value. In addition, permanent policies typically pay much higher commissions – so advisors who sell permanent life insurance may be biased to sell you the permanent policy.

Commissions can be as high as 50% of the annual premium for permanent policies and about 40% for term. Since term is cheaper, the less commission is to be paid. And – life insurance is NEVER an investment. Any advisor who says differently is selling you something. Life insurance is just that – life insurance.

In the end, the life insurance decision should be yours, with any advice given to the client by an objective advisor or agent. Don’t be afraid to ask how much commission they’ll make off of the product and why they’re recommending the product they’re selling. If the advisor or agent is captive (they work for a parent company) ask if they can only offer their company’s policies. This should be disclosed.

Finally, shop around. You may find a good deal online or you may find a good deal asking your current auto and home agent if they offer life insurance. Often companies will offer discounts on all three policies if you keep all your insurance business under one roof.

 

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